Easiest / dumbest question ever - oil

penberth3 said:
Put thermostat in an old pan, cover it with water, bring to the boil, if thermostat doesn't open at around boiling point it's knackered. Not too difficult is it?
Click to expand...

No !.

The thermostat should begin to open at 82C ..... That is what needs to be checked... and be fully open at 92C.
 
Wait a minute fellas , di have been lead to believe that marine oils contain extra anticorrosion additives? and that automobile oils are not very suited for a marine engine that can be expected to work in a constantly damp environment. was that pure bullcrap?
 
benchmark said:
Wait a minute fellas , di have been lead to believe that marine oils contain extra anticorrosion additives? and that automobile oils are not very suited for a marine engine that can be expected to work in a constantly damp environment. was that pure bullcrap?
Click to expand...

Engine oil has to be the correct specification for your engine. I dont think that specification includes any marine additive

.
 
benchmark said:
Wait a minute fellas , di have been lead to believe that marine oils contain extra anticorrosion additives? and that automobile oils are not very suited for a marine engine that can be expected to work in a constantly damp environment. was that pure bullcrap?
Click to expand...

Yes it's possible that some additives are added if it says on the tin

No plenty of marine engines run on regular automotive oil

Yes correct spec is minimal requirement
 
penberth3 said:
Put thermostat in an old pan, cover it with water, bring to the boil, if thermostat doesn't open at around boiling point it's knackered. Not too difficult is it?
Click to expand...

Just had chat with colleague (ex car mechanic)... figured out where the thermostat is... and looks like it's beyond my ability to change the thermostat, especially apparently with it being close to the carburetor (he reckons I don't want anything getting it wet).

After a chat with him... and explaining that the temperature gauge stays at 1-o'clock (very much in the green) whilst in neutral at 50% throttle for 20 minutes (after checking the fluids/filter, I wanted to see if it overheated in dock)... he reckons that if the thermostat wasn't working, it'd overheat in such a situation too.

The overheating only seemed to occur when it was under 90 mins of load at sea... leading the colleague to believe it's the raw-water heat exchanger likely being clogged.

So if the above makes sense?...

New question: How do i clean/flush the raw-water heat exchanger? Bottle brush? Pipe cleaners?
 
vodzurk said:
Just had chat with colleague (ex car mechanic)... figured out where the thermostat is... and looks like it's beyond my ability to change the thermostat, especially apparently with it being close to the carburetor (he reckons I don't want anything getting it wet).

After a chat with him... and explaining that the temperature gauge stays at 1-o'clock (very much in the green) whilst in neutral at 50% throttle for 20 minutes (after checking the fluids/filter, I wanted to see if it overheated in dock)... he reckons that if the thermostat wasn't working, it'd overheat in such a situation too.

The overheating only seemed to occur when it was under 90 mins of load at sea... leading the colleague to believe it's the raw-water heat exchanger likely being clogged.

So if the above makes sense?...

New question: How do i clean/flush the raw-water heat exchanger? Bottle brush? Pipe cleaners?
Click to expand...


put into the search bar- 'cleaning heat exchanger' or even 'rydlime' and read the results - loads of answers there
 
Mike k said:
put into the search bar- 'cleaning heat exchanger' or even 'rydlime' and read the results - loads of answers there
Click to expand...

The rydlyme looks like something I can try myself, so thanks for that one...

Quote from (this) post:
Rydlyme is the stuff. Internally, drain the coolant, replace with Water and 30% Rydlyme, run for an hour at idle, drain and replace with fresh coolant. It may fizz up a bit, and keep an eye on them temperature-wise. You'll be surprised what comes out.

So if i can figure out how to drain the coolant, I can at least give that a good rydlyme flushing. Will see about getting a temperature laser thingeymabob too, to keep an eye on it whilst rydlyme-ing :).

Quote from same post:
For the Freshwater side, run a reverse flush from the exhaust water feed forward to the raw water pump, either into the bilge or buckets, recycling for a couple of hours at 30% concentration. Don't run the engine, but you need to make sure the water exiting the front is lower than the mix being pumped in (12v inline pump!) Worked wonders for my TAMD40b's. It doesn't hurt the engine, nor your fingers, nor GRP so safe to slosh around in a ventilated area.

I don't have the foggiest idea on how to proceed with that one... which would seem to be the chicken dinner.
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure why you'd run Rydlime through the freshwater (coolant) side of the engine. There really shouldn't be any mineral deposits in there unless someone has been regularly topping it up with tap water. The deposits and any blockages will be in the raw water (seawater) side.
 
Keith-i said:
I'm not sure why you'd run Rydlime through the freshwater (coolant) side of the engine. There really shouldn't be any mineral deposits in there unless someone has been regularly topping it up with tap water. The deposits and any blockages will be in the raw water (seawater) side.
Click to expand...

Ah sod it, booked it in with Advance Marine to do a flushing for me next week.

Has anybody experience with them regarding reasonable pricing? Lady on phone couldn't give me a price, until engineer knows what needs doing to fix it *sigh*.
 
I don't know your engine but mine has a seawater cooling system that sucks up seawater by an impellor, it runs through a tube stack( the heat exchanger ) and around the tube stack is normal coolant( ethlyne glycol and water),The ethylene glycol and water( just like the car) takes the heat from the engine and then that is transferred to the seawater in the exchanger then its spat out the back.The ethylene glycol coolant goes nowhere as that remains in the engine its just the heated seawater that goes out. In a car the fan and air does the cooling as part of the radiator set up; here its seawater) So two things going on- engine coolant which I would be surprised if it needs flushing (but could do) and the seawater that runs through tiny tubes. These can get clogged and the rydlime dissolves them to allow a freeer flowing seawater action to cool your coolant .Does that make sense? p.s I haven't heard of rydlime being used in the closed cooling system but there is some radflush stuff
 
benchmark said:
Wait a minute fellas , di have been lead to believe that marine oils contain extra anticorrosion additives? and that automobile oils are not very suited for a marine engine that can be expected to work in a constantly damp environment. was that pure bullcrap?
Click to expand...

Have you looked under the bonet of your car? Just how damp do you think it gets in therre? Only a marine outboard is exposed to the damp and salty atmosphere that a car engine is!
 
Thanks. Unfortunately I don’t have a technical manual or I would have. I’m sure there is somewhere on line but I’m not sure best place to look thanks again John
 
Loupe said:
Thanks. Unfortunately I don’t have a technical manual or I would have. I’m sure there is somewhere on line but I’m not sure best place to look thanks again John
Click to expand...
I was not referring to a "technical manual" just to the technical data section of your Operators Manual which includes details of basic routine maintenance'. If you have mislaid your copy you can download one from VP's website
Manuals & Handbooks | Volvo Penta
Just enter AQ151 in the "product designation" box

You will find the full Workshop Manual here
VOLVO PENTA 230 WORKSHOP MANUAL Pdf Download | ManualsLib
 
Last edited:
Thanks. I’m looking a owner’s manual for a Sealine195. With the Aq151c Engine a chap earlier in the conversations had one.
Thanks again John
 
Nooo...

You need to buy our special Marine Formulated, Salt Water Resistant Mineral Oil that is specifically designed for Marine engine. Guaranteed to keep you engine running as long as you abide by our very strict change over regime and replace like with like. It's the only way to guarantee your engine will be in great condition. All other oils introduce impurities.

Disclaimer: This post was sponsored by SwindlersChandlers, find us at your nearest marina.
other disclaimer: ... This post is satirical. As resemblance to real companies or advertisements is purely coincidental.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top