Earthing a generator (again) - Is there a choice??

Richard10002

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I’m sure lots of us are confused about this stuff, and I am really trying to understand it, but it’s not easy when there seem to be 2 schools of thought.

Following on from my queries regarding earthing an on board generator, where I asked if I should do what the instructions say and connect the earth to a “stake stuck in the ground”, (in our case, a wire in the sea) – which does not seem to be a good idea.

Some said that the earth wire on the boat supply cable should be tied to the negative in the plug at the generator, and others said that nothing should be done, so the earth wire is not connected to anything, (thus leaving the system “floating”).

I have read the following book, (the following paragraph many times!)….. so:

From The 12 Volt Bible for Boats Page page 132, (Second Edition Adlard coles),

Quote

“All of this can be sorted out very fairly simply. As for the earthing wire, its’ purpose in an electrical system must be clearly understood. It’s required to provide an electrical path for AC fault current to get back to its’ source of power, (whatever that may be), so that people on board don’t get a shock in the event of a short circuit to the casing of a piece of AC electrical equipment. If a boat has an AC generator, a DC to AC inverter, or is equipped with what is known as an isolation transformer, these items are considered AC power sources and the green/yellow wire, and blue “neutral” wire in the three wire AC line are connected together at these devices. But, for all other installations, such as the simple AC circuit used to feed an on-board battery charger, and perhaps a few convenience outlets, the green/yellow wire must be carried back to the source of power on the dock, and ultimately back to land. All of this is accomplished via the shore power cord.”

Unquote

It seems then that the earth wire is a kind of 2nd “neutral” wire which shunts leaked power back to “earth”, from where it finds it’s way back to the power station in the case of shore based AC power, or back to the generator or inverter in the case of our boat AC power.

My logic tells me that sending fault current to neutral at the generator must be right … as it mimics a miniature version of the land based system. Alternatively, a car is a “floating” system, albeit 12v rather than 240v, so this kind of makes sense, but not as logically as the other.

It also suggests that, if you get a qualified marine electrician on board, he may be of the “floating” school, or he may be of the “send it all back to the power source” school and, actually, there is a choice over which system/method to apply, neither of which is wrong.

Am I right in thinking that there is a choice, which is why there are differing opinions, none of which are wrong?

In my case, the generator I am going to buy will have a continental 2 pin socket, so there is no earth “hole”…. Which begs the follow on question:

How do they provide a path to earth in European land based systems, where the power cord, plug, and socket, only have two wires, pins, holes, respectively… i.e. there is no earth wire.

Richard
 
My understanding is that AC has postive and neutral (not 12v negative) wires. The neutral wire is effectively the ground, it returns to source. Notionally the ground/earth wire is not needed.

However, for yachts it is recommended that 3 pin plugs are used, the third earth/ground wire being a belts and braces safety feature given the marine environment. The AC earth wire uses the boat's normal ground. This raises issues of galvanic corrosion and a galvanic isolator should be fitted.

In theory then there are two options but subject to how safety conscious you are.

If that's incorrect please would somebody say so, don't want Richard fried.
 
[ QUOTE ]
My understanding is that AC has postive and neutral

[/ QUOTE ] Single phase AC supplies eg domestic supplies, have a LIVE and a neutral!

Galvanic isolators are only required with shore power installations . They are not relevant to onboard generators on inverters or if the shorepower is supplied via an isolating transformer.
 
Continental systems do have an earth wire just by the way and those are soundly attached to the continental shelf for that matter. Exceptions are low cost stuff from various countries with significantly higher danger tolerances and or indifference.
Boats seem to be another exception due to the lack of earth (except one tall ship which
transported count Dracula to London, which however in turn did lack a generator and its passenger was dead already anyway).

You are right that there are two schools of thought on AC on board (There are also two schools on DC bonding).
My DC-AC converter comes with an earth clamp but neutral is not internally connected and the manual is avoiding the issue on what to do with the earth clamp.


Common sense led me to the following solution.
1, Shore power

Full earth protection from shore to the outlets including an ELCB's

2. Inverter

Floating but the inverter casing connected to shore earth.

3. All AC devices on board are fully isolated except the Microwave which I am treating with utmost respect anyway.
 
Not sure what you mean by floating. Any A/C curcuit has live & nutral both of which carry current as it alternates round the curcuit and back again. The onlt difference between live and nutral is that when a curcuit is turned off the will be a full voltage on the live wire to the socket but not to the nutral (although it can often show up to 50v). The earth is not part of this loop it takes fault currents back to the generator. If the earth is also connected to the sea then it should maintain 0v reletive to the planet at that piont. If you don't make this connection deliberatly and someone makes it accidently by being in contact with part of the electrics and something that is grounded (like the engine block) its possible for them the get a shock if there is a fault in the A/C system. This connection can either be a tempory one by trailing a wire in the sea when running a portable geny or via the A/C submerged ground onboard in the case of a permenant instalation. If its istalled correctly ther should be no corrosion issue because nothing else is connected to this ground and in normal opperation no current is flowwing through the A/C earth system. It is possible if there are faults within the system to get stray currents but an occasional check with a multimeter should show this up - if ther is any current you have a fault!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Continental systems do have an earth wire just by the way and those are soundly attached to the continental shelf for that matter.

[/ QUOTE ]

The earth wires are often not soundly connected to the continental shelf. Granted they probably should be but my experience is that in a awful lot of countries earthing can be very poor if not non existent, due to lack of installation, corrosion etc. and I am not talking about marinas.

The further south or east I go the more tests I do particularly on older installations.

It is getting better.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Single phase AC supplies eg domestic supplies, have a LIVE and a neutral!

[/ QUOTE ] Beg to differ. I am reliably informed that the correct terminology is now PHASE and RETURN. Apparently LIVE is still just about acceptable but NEUTRAL is definitely not.
 
There are 233 occurrences of "Neutral" in the New wiring regulations. Only 4 occurrences of "return" relating to wires. Very few usages of "phase" that are not part of single-phase or three-phase words.

And 130 references to "live".
 
In my experience of marinas (I test every one I visit) there is no consistency in the live neutral connections. There was one stretch of Spain where I had to reverse the plug wires on every marina.

Even within a marina, different sockets on the same stand are wired backwards.

I never left my boat connected while unattended in case someone swapped the plugs around!

As for earths I have seen everything possible up to 110v but generally a faulty earth is an AC voltage that is bigger than most Galvanic isolator can cope with.

In the UK I have not found a marina that is bad yet.

One of our cruiser friends ended up in Hospital for connecting up to a marina in South America. Molten copper embedded in his hand.
 
Yes there is a choice. If you have a floating system there is no point in having a RCD as it will not work as there will be no return path for the leakage current and the a fuse or overload will not trip if there is a live short to the ase of the appliance only if the live and neutral is short circuit.

By the way it is the connection of one of the main current carrying conductors to the earth line that defines it as being neutral, that is why some marina instalations are not compatable with the boat installation, which can cause a danger.

If you go for a floating AC system you cannot have the protection of a RCD so no point in fitting one and the fuse wll not blow if the live short circuits to the case of you appliance.

All IMHO

Also the so called earth point of a non fixed generator is also pointless IMHO at it is a power source device not a receiving power device which does normally need a earth connection to the case as is normal in non double insulated appliances.
 
[ QUOTE ]
If you go for a floating AC system you cannot have the protection of a RCD so no point in fitting one

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Roger, that is what I used to say applying the same logic as you but what i have now realised is that you should still fit an RCD. It will not offer the same protection as it does with an earthed neutral for the reasons you have worked out for yourself BUT in the event of a fault occurring in which or or other of the two floating conductors develops a connection to earth you have a potentially dangerous situation because you now have one conductor earthed and the other at 240v compared to earth. An RCD now will protect you in the same way as it does with an earthed neutral. Because in this situation either of the conductors could have an earth fault the RCD must be a double pole one, ie switch off both conductors. I am not sure how many are double pole and how many are single pole. I assumed the plug in type would be single pole but I had a check of mine yesterday and discovered that it does in fact switch both live and neutral.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Beg to differ. I am reliably informed that the correct terminology is now PHASE and RETURN. Apparently LIVE is still just about acceptable but NEUTRAL is definitely not

[/ QUOTE ] You may be right but but the terms live and neutral are the ones in common usage and are what every one understands. What I was objecting to was the statement that an AC supply has a positive. That is definitely wrong. DC supplies have a positive!
 
[ QUOTE ]
...in the event of a fault occurring ... An RCD now will protect you in the same way as it does with an earthed neutral.

[/ QUOTE ]

NO!

Only if the fault occurs inside the generator. A fault of one conductors connecting to the boat earth after the RCD (cut boat wiring) will not be detected. Far more likely.

If you want to go for fully isolated (which is against most recommendations) you must have a test circuit to make sure that the earth stays isolated. These are easy for manual testing, but they should be automatic. Hard to do properly.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Only if the fault occurs inside the generator

[/ QUOTE ] I must admit I was think in terms of a fault in the supply. I suppose in this situation the closer the rcd is to the point of use then the greater the protection it offers. One thing remains, though, there are situations in which an RCD can give protection. If it isn't fitted then it can never offer any protection at all.
 
I have a portable generator that I use for battery charging whilst at anchor. Having read a lot on the subject, I made up a "special" lead to connect the generator output to my usual shore power inlet - this lead has the earth and neutral lines connected. Before I did this, my RCD would trip immediately I connected the output from the generator.

Jerry
 
Richard,

Having seen the replies in this thread, I feel it is necessary to give a short answer to your question, with no explanations, so as not to draw futile and non-productive replies that might just muddy the water.

<Earthing a generator, is there a choice??>

Of course there is, do it or don't do it.

That's the facetious answer -- now for some instructiions, not recommendations.

Richard -- always earth the case, frame or whatever of any electrical aparatus -- always ALWAYS. UNDERSTOOD??? ALWAYS. And I said EARTH. I did not say connect it to the neutral, as that is only earthed back at the power transformer (in the case of a domestic shore-side power circuit) and so may have a considerable voltage with respect to earth at your location -- even up to several tens of volts in extreme cases, but more often just a few volts. Whether that level of potential can kill depends on the current that the circuit can pump into you at your impedance to ground. Often, more correctly: usually, things are such that touching the neutral will give you a jolt, but it could certainly kill you. That is why proper earthing of all metallic structure via an independent lead to a low impedance earth is so important and vital, and use of the neutral as earth is not correct.

As for an RCD, whether the two leads carrying the AC generated by the generator are floating or have one lead connected to earth just as are the neutral leads of onshore domestic supplies, ALWAYS have an RCD at the generator / supply end. ALWAYS. No ifs ands or buts -- just do it. And have an overload protector just downstream of the RCD (breaker, fuse or whatever).

As for single and two-pole RCDs!! What a laugh -- an RCD for single phase AC is by definition two pole -- it cannot be otherwise. To leave the neutral connected when a fault occurs could just as easily kill you. Apart from the usual mix-up of wiring where the installer has no notion which lead is neutral and which is phase and so could, with a single-pole RCD, leave the phase (live) connected!! No, Richard, RCDs for single-phase supplies are 2-pole devices -- ALWAYS.

Those two mandatory requirements are essential to improve your security. FULL STOP.

If the supply is floating, and here a generator that has neither of the leads connected to ground is probably floating (check your manual or ask), it is even more important to ensure that all metallic surfaces and structure are properly grounded. There are some exceptions in certain types of industrial installation, but don't go that route. Those are very specialised situations and fully understood by those who design and maintain them.

Instead of having a floating generator output, it would be better to have one of the two leads connected to earth, just as is done in normal domestic supplies where the neutral (one of the two leads that enter each home) is earthed at the transformer. In this case, the lead connecting one of the generator terminals to earth would them also be connected to the generator case and structure. BUT ONLY IF THE GENERATOR AND ALL DOWNSTREAM LOADS are an isolated system that is nowhere connected to shore power. And only if the generator is truly floating. It would be possible to build a generator that generates two single-phase outputs with a 180 degree phase difference between them. They would each be at 110V with respect to the central part of the generator winding which could be connected to the case and structure. In this case, the voltage between leads would be 220V, but only 110V with respect to the case. In this arrangement, connecting one of the output leads to ground and the case or structure would short-circuit half the generator and burn it out. I don't know if your unit, or indeed if any of this type of unit is built like that. You should consult your manual or the manufacturer just in case.

Hope this helps.
Plomong
 
[ QUOTE ]
Richard -- always earth the case, frame or whatever of any electrical aparatus -- always ALWAYS. UNDERSTOOD??? ALWAYS. And I said EARTH. I did not say connect it to the neutral,

snip

That is why proper earthing of all metallic structure via an independent lead to a low impedance earth is so important and vital, and use of the neutral as earth is not correct.



[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for that:

from what you are saying, I am getting that you are saying there has to be a connection to the sea... from the case of every appliance, and the case of the generator.

I am educatedly guessing that the cases of most things like toasters, kettles, microwaves, TVs etc. are connected to the earth wire in their power cable, that metal plug socket cases are connected to the earth in the socket, such that any stray currents are carried down the earth wire, (yellow/green), off to wherever the earth wire terminates - which is:

1) in fresh air in a floating system

2) back into the generator power supply via the neutral cable in a system where the earth is connected to the neutral

3) into the sea if the generator earth is connected to the sea, and the power cable earth is connected to the generator earth after entering the generator socket.

In case 1) - it is possible for any, or all, appliance cases to become live, but to cause injury, a person would have to be touching both the case, and somewhere for the current to flow to, at the same time.

In case 2) all leaked current would end up back at the generator, so to cause injury, the generator case would have to become live due to a fault, a person would have to touch the generator case, and somewhere for the current to flow to, at the same time.

In case 3) all leaked current would end up in the sea, and to cause injury, someone would have to be in the sea, or connected to it, withing the sphere of the currents influence - presumably before it had dissipated to less than 30mA or so. Which was almost where I started - but there was a definite concensus that firing leaked currents into the sea might kill us if we were to be in it at the time.


I can think of a case 4, where every socket is earthed to something metal on the outside of the boat, (anode?), so the current can flow out of the boat - but it still ends up in the sea, just like case 3.

It therefore strikes me that we can merely pick the option that is least likely to result in injury, rather than having a completely safe system - when using an onboard source of power like a generator, inverter, or an isolation transformer.

You seem to be saying that case 3, or perhaps 4, is the choice to make?


[ QUOTE ]

As for an RCD, whether the two leads carrying the AC generated by the generator are floating or have one lead connected to earth just as are the neutral leads of onshore domestic supplies, ALWAYS have an RCD at the generator / supply end. ALWAYS. No ifs ands or buts -- just do it. And have an overload protector just downstream of the RCD (breaker, fuse or whatever).


[/ QUOTE ]

My RCCB, (which I believe is both the 30mA RCD and the 25A Circuit breaker), is on the distribution panel, probably about 15ft from where the shore supply, (or generator supply), enters the boat. I suppose I could get a box and fit another RCCB in the aft locker, (lazarette?), but would you suggest that is necessary?

[ QUOTE ]

If the supply is floating, and here a generator that has neither of the leads connected to ground is probably floating (check your manual or ask), it is even more important to ensure that all metallic surfaces and structure are properly grounded.

[/ QUOTE ]

my case 4 above?


[ QUOTE ]
Instead of having a floating generator output, it would be better to have one of the two leads connected to earth, just as is done in normal domestic supplies where the neutral (one of the two leads that enter each home) is earthed at the transformer. In this case, the lead connecting one of the generator terminals to earth would them also be connected to the generator case and structure. BUT ONLY IF THE GENERATOR AND ALL DOWNSTREAM LOADS are an isolated system that is nowhere connected to shore power. And only if the generator is truly floating.

[/ QUOTE ]

In my case, the generator will be plugged into the shore power socket, so there will be no way, (well never say never), that both shore power and generator could be connected at the same time.

But here you are saying that both the earth wire, and the neutral wire, (or the live wire), should be connected to the generator earth point, and this point should then be connected to the sea... which is actually an addition of my cases 2 & 3 and, if I have understood "floating" correctly, makes it no longer "floating", as it is connected to the BIG EARTH.


[ QUOTE ]

Hope this helps.


[/ QUOTE ]

from what I seem to have understood, you tell me - but there now seem to be 4 choices, (5 if you count the addition of 2 & 3), of which you strongly promote those which send the leaked current into the sea, by one route or another.

Of course, I may have got completely the wrong end of the stick /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Cheers

Richard
 
I didn't realise generators could be so dangerous!

I don't mean to muddy the waters here, but 1) how exactly do you earth to the sea? Just drop a wire in? and 2) haven't most marinas, if not all, got an RCD built into the outlet point? Or is that just a trip switch based on load rather than one that trips on an earth problem?
 
Richard,

The purpose of my post was to convey the necessity of always having an RCD and an overload protector (breaker or fuse) at the supply end.

As for earthing arrangements when a generator is integrated with a shore supply and the boats 12V system, that brings in shore-side earth, isolating transformers, galvanic isolators, ships own earth to the sea, etc, etc. And I specifically tried to avoid those topics.

I assume you are now in Malta. Try to find someone locally who can discuss these topics with you in an educational manner, preferably with a boating background, as to try to do a complete primer through the forum would require time and patience. The second I have, the other is unfortunately limited for now -- Roll on 2013!!!

Plomong
 
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