Dyneema soft shackle for genoa sheets

[flaming]

It's just a thought, in the spirit of 'what if'...

The structure of a headsail clew typically involves a steel ring ( internally or externally ) supported by several bands of high-strength tape looped through the ring and sewn back onto the sail panel.

I'm wondering if the steel ring could be dispensed with....

It's interesting that it hasn't, especially when considering that reefing points in mainsails largely have. Instead using webbing straps.

My thought is that you'd get some funny load paths as you adjusted the sheet lead, as the point of connection was actually outside the area of the sail. In contrast you know the direction that a reef line will pull in. Next time I talk to the sailmaker I'll ask him.

 

[MikeBz]

Wow, lots of really useful feedback and suggestions there. Thankyou everyone.

I think the dyneema diameter should be as large as reasonably practical to spread the load area of the dyneema on the sheet.

To answer a few specific questions:

The whole point is to not have bowlines at the clew because they snag on the rigging when tacking - aft lower shrouds, forward lower shrouds, main shrouds and cap shrouds.

I would splice loops in the ends of the sheets (downside - would probably have to buy new sheets as splicing several-years-old braid on braid is something of a challenge).

We don’t currently pole out but it’s something that I hadn’t and should consider.

I had wondered about hiding the knot inside the cringle so I’m glad someone suggested that.

One soft shackle per sheet sounds like a good idea (though that might preclude hiding the knots inside the cringle).

 

[flaming]

I would splice loops in the ends of the sheets (downside - would probably have to buy new sheets as splicing several-years-old braid on braid is something of a challenge).

If you've only used them one way around then splicing the other end should be ok. However if you've been end for ending them then yes, agree that new ones will probably be needed.

 

[Supertramp]

We don’t currently pole out but it’s something that I hadn’t and should consider.

Use a separate sheet with a snapshackle at the end and a long thin line to the pin so you can trip the shackle from the deck to release in an instant. Fit the sheet through the pole end. You can rig and derig the pole independent of what the sail is doing - I use fore and aft downhauls and an uphaul. It can sit rigged all day provided its not in the way of the sail. The only difficult bit is getting the separate sheet onto the sail clew (furl then unfurl onto the pole works).

Good quality snapshackle helps. I grew up grappling poles on the cabin roof. This is far safer but does involve much string.

 

[Roberto]

One soft shackle per sheet sounds like a good idea (though that might preclude hiding the knots inside the cringle).

You could try and put the two knots of the two soft shackles on opposite sides, seawards of each sheet so when the leeward sheet is released its boatwards knotless side slides more easily against the rigging wires during the tack. Just an idea, I never tried.

 

[Humblebee]

Just to keep the options coming, I find an Alpine Butterfly knot works for me. One continuous jib sheet secured to the cringle seems nice and neat.
Alpine Butterfly

 

[The Q]

On my boat the jib is attached to the jib club using 2mm dyneema, the sheets are 4 mm dyneema.. the 4 jib sheets are just tied onto the jib club.
On the main the reefing and outhaul are 2 mm dyneema, but the main sheet is a conventional 8mm rope for hand feel.
Both halyards are 4 mm dyneema.

At that point I should mention the main is only 10sqm and the jib 3sqm..