Dyneema for an anchor to chain connection ?

[ottow]

So, it seems the consensus is that using Dyneema for anchor to chain connection is a bad idea.
I'd appreciate suggestions for alternatives that offer quick-connect function, I need to have my chain disconnected and connect when needed or it will interfere with my self-tacking jibb.
I've been using an oversized softshackle for this so far, and it has worked very well but...

 

[Neeves]

If you have been using a soft shackle why is it difficult to use a conventional shackle (that you would keep attached to the chain or anchor) whose clevis pin you secure with a decent quality cable tie.

Cable ties can break - but you imply you would disconnect after each period at anchor - so you would use a new cable tie each time.

We change anchors fairly frequently because I like to evaluate different anchors in different seabeds, we cannot house anchors with roll bars on our bow roller and some anchors are better suited to some seabeds. We keep a shackle on each anchor and when we change - if its short term - cable tie, longer term Loctite + cable tie (and we keep the Loctite handy (it sets off under water).

To some our practice is a hardship - but if you want to evaluate anchors under similar conditions - its one of the only ways - and its relatively easy.

I don't find it onerous.

But you may have particular reason why this sort of technique would not work.

Jonathan

 

[ottow]

Convenience and ease of use is why I've been using a soft shackle.
It takes 5 seconds and requires no tools or additional bits such as zip ties.
And it is harder for inexperienced crewmen to fail with a soft shackle.

 

[lw395]

So, it seems the consensus is that using Dyneema for anchor to chain connection is a bad idea.
I'd appreciate suggestions for alternatives that offer quick-connect function, I need to have my chain disconnected and connect when needed or it will interfere with my self-tacking jibb.
I've been using an oversized softshackle for this so far, and it has worked very well but...

TBH I cannot think of a solution to that which I'd be happy with.
My view is that the anchor might be needed in a hurry in rough conditions.
I can see myself as the bloke who dropped the shackle pin over the side when needing to anchor quickly due to engine failure or something.
Maybe shackles permanently on both anchor and chain, join with outsize screwgate carabiner when needed?

 

[Neeves]

Maybe instead of looking at the rode look at the other problem.

Why?/how? does the anchor being attached to the chain impact the self tacking jib.

Jonathan

 

[thinwater]

Convenience and ease of use is why I've been using a soft shackle.
It takes 5 seconds and requires no tools or additional bits such as zip ties.
And it is harder for inexperienced crewmen to fail with a soft shackle.

What size boat and chain?

I ask because I had this problem on a prior boat. The rode could not run between the rode storage and the anchor storage.

This is a problem that is common on smaller boats. The solutions that work may not scale up to larger boats, so we should not think universally.

 

[thinwater]

What size boat and chain?

I ask because I had this problem on a prior boat. The rode could not run between the rode storage and the anchor storage.

This is a problem that is common on smaller boats. The solutions that work may not scale up to larger boats, so we should not think universally.

I'll just relate a few experiences.

On my PDQ cruising cat I would have been uncomfortable with anything other than conservative choices, with chain rode and rated shackles. The boat had a windlass and rollers and this worked well. The storm load on the rode can approach a ton, which is a lot of cutting force. This is why I came down harshly on replacing a metal shackle with Dyneema.

On my Stiletto 27 I had to separate the anchor from the rode; the rode was stored in hatches near the bows, the anchors in bow lockers, and there was no convenient way to leave the anchor connected to the rode. Instead, I stored the anchors with 15 feet of chain attached, and then clipped on the rode with a wire gate carabiner. Very fast. Because the carabiner wss attached to free moving line at both ends, there was no way for it to unclip the way it can from a fixed u-bolt. In fact, it is very, very difficult to accidentally unclip a carabiner clipped between two lines of significant length. I've never seen it happen in the field and I've never seen a demonstration of how it could happen. Anyway, it never did. If you want additional security, use two carabiners with the gates opposed and reversed. The risk becomes zero, as well proven by generations of climbers.

I would not use a locking carabiner. They tend to jam with corrosion after too many days in saltwater.

I currently have an F-24. The chain is connected in a conventional manner. But because of the way I have to feed it through the pulpit, I'm giving this thought. I may return to my old way. I may consider a soft shackle or a soft shackle and a biner. In this case I'm not worried about abration on the soft shackle, because it won't be on the bottom and because the load will be very low (400 pounds max on a 12000-pound soft shackle).

I don't like the idea of using a carabiner at the anchor. That is a fixed point and it certainly could unclip or cross-gate load. Abrasion and grit are terrible. There are rough edges on anchors. That is a very different application from the leader-rope connection.

Also remember that in small boats, the safety factors can easily be made huge by over sizing. Even a common climbing carabiner has a 25:1 safety factor in this application with a 20-foot boat (10:1 on my F-24). It would take some big gear to reach those factors on a large cruising boat.

This doesn't really scale up to large boats very well, and moreover, they don't need to.