Duralac on turnbuckles?

[Conachair]

Any point? Just removed the forestay, he duralac on the just seems to gum up the threads a bit. And in hindsight seems pointless anyway, stainless on stainless.
Is it better to use something like lanocote?

 

[Danielmc]

Stainless on stainless can easily gall and weld itself together. Copper grease is the cheapest preventative.

 

[Roberto]

Is it better to use something like lanocote?

I put lanocote when I changed the whole standing rigging 5 years ago, never had a problem in turning the turnbuckles to adjust the tension so far

 

[charles_reed]

Grease possibly, Duralac never - as an locking compound it's 2nd rate to Loctite.
Usually it better to have chromed bronze rather than stainless adjusters - slightly more expensive but always work and far less prone to fatigue failure than stainless which is common (in more senses than one)

 

[Vara]

Second vote for copper grease to prevent galling, duralac has a completely different function.

Neither will provide a significant locking action, needs Monel or cable ties for that.

 

[Conachair]

Seems so obviously not a great idea now

Any brand names for copper grease from a chandlers? Not many shops round here. Used lanocote quite a lot on other outside stuff, generally very good but does tend to get a bit sticky after a while.
Might try tef-gel, but blimmin expensive.

Not even sure if the turnbuckle is stainless or chrome bronze, it´s a sta-lok. How do you tell?

 

[Vara]

This is the stuff I use, readily available;

http://www.google.co.uk/products/ca...2&sa=X&ei=cj4VUOWgOKmk0QXr-QE&ved=0CGEQ8wIwAQ

Also available in most car accessory shops

 

[Plevier]

CopperEase or CopperSlip - car shops including Halfrauds

 

[Roberto]

This is the stuff I use, readily available;

http://www.google.co.uk/products/ca...2&sa=X&ei=cj4VUOWgOKmk0QXr-QE&ved=0CGEQ8wIwAQ

Also available in most car accessory shops

"graphite enhanced" sounds bad in a boat imho

 

[VicS]

Any brand names for copper grease from a chandlers?

Copaslip ( made by the makers of Molyslip) is the well known one but Halfords will have a choice. The 3 in 1 spray in Vara's link looks a good idea.

These copper based anti-seize compounds are messy... you'll not want to get any on clothes or sails ... but then so is Duralac.

 

[VicS]

"graphite enhanced" sounds bad in a boat imho

Why ?

 

[Roberto]

Why ?

it's very very high in the galvanic series, isn't there a risk for a lot of corrosion ?

?

regards

 

[Vara]

"graphite enhanced" sounds bad in a boat imho

Whoops better throw all my pencils out then.

In the 5/6 years I've been using 3in1 product I've encountered no problems at all.

 

[VicS]

it's very very high in the galvanic series, isn't there a risk for a lot of corrosion ?

?

regards

No hint of any problems on the product data sheet. Marine use is listed as a suitable one with "Exceptional salt water corrosion resistance"

http://www.3-in-one.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/3-IN-ONEprofessionalAnti-SeizeCopperGrease.pdf

Might not want to use it, or any other metallic copper based material, in contact with aluminium maybe.

 

[Roberto]

the 5/6 years I've been using 3in1 product I've encountered no problems at all.

so much the better


regards




otoh, try putting an aluminium rivet in a unprotected carbon fiber pole, dip in it in the water, wait a certain number of hours and hop where has the rivet disappeared ? Sure the effect with steel would be inferior, but then why bother to put anodes on prop shaft, etc..

If what they call "graphite" is pure carbon (which by definition it is) then I would not use it with other metals + sea water, if they call "graphite" a carbon compound with different electrochemical properties from carbon it may of course be absolutely acceptable.

Is "graphite" real "graphite" ?

 

[Roberto]

also, it may also be that the graphite "enhancement" is so light (ie carbon content very very low) as that no noticeable effects appear, which probably is the case with 3-1 ?

 

[rogerthebodger]

No hint of any problems on the product data sheet. Marine use is listed as a suitable one with "Exceptional salt water corrosion resistance"

http://www.3-in-one.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/3-IN-ONEprofessionalAnti-SeizeCopperGrease.pdf

Might not want to use it, or any other metallic copper based material, in contact with aluminium maybe.

When graphite packing gland material became available people who used it found the the stainless steel prop shaft started to corrode very quickly and the packing material for marine use started to become impregnated with PTFE grease which solved the problem.

The graphite used in PSS seals does not seem to have the sane problem possibly due to the thin water film between the carbon and the stainless.

 

[TimBennet]

I've never seen any documented proof that shows copper based products are effective in preventing stainless steel galling. They would appear to be no more effective than any other lubricant including waxes like Lanocote and even PTFE tape. It's only Molybdenum disulphide that has been proven to help.

The thing about galling is that doesn't happen that often, so lots of people's solutions seem to work as they never experience any problems. It's also not influenced by corrosion or the length a part has been together, or salt water or heat. In fact it's most often found in clean, new fittings that are being assembled for the first time. It's the movement of one piece of metal sliding over the other that causes so much friction they 'weld' together. It has no connection with the types of corrosion that make long term disassembly a challenge!

Whilst using dissimilar types of stainless steel in a threaded assembly will prevent galling, ie 304 nut on a 316 bolt, in the case of bottlescrews, it's even better to use bronze 'nuts' with stainless 'bolts' - that is the bodies are chrome plated bronze and the studs stainless. With these, the bronze is microscopically worn away, fills in the roughness in the stainless steel threads, and lubricates the movement.

On larger boats, stainless/stainless turnbuckles are not that common as most of the ones that are shiny and silver are in fact chrome plated bronze. You can tell the stainless ones as they have much sharper edges to the openings in the turnbuckle bodies.