ditchcrawler
Well-Known Member
Anyone know roughly how much a yard would charge to replace the saildrive gaiter on a Dufour 30.Does it involve cutting any fibreglass or is it just lifting the engine.Many thanks.
Dufour 30 cost to change saildrive gaiter.
- Thread starter ditchcrawler
- Start date
bigwow
Well-Known Member
If it's the Volvo saildrive it involves spliting the engine from the saildrive, removing the saildrive from the mounting then replacing the gaiter under the saildrive and puting it all together again. No cutting involved just a load of work, it will not be cheap.
AIDY
Well-Known Member
We had a few quotes for our 120 saildrive and volvo penta enginge anything from 800 - 1200 pounds. but it depends what they intend to change. ie... clamping ring engine mounts. we opted to do it our selves cost of parts were about 200 pounds. took us about 2 days to do the job. and it's not sunk yet !
Neil_M
Well-Known Member
As per email to you but posted as well for general benefit...
I've not needed to replace mine as yet so not sure - they are reckoned to last between 5-12 years, checked mine before launching this week & it seemed fine, no leaks when I rowed out on Monday to check!
Volspec (01473 219651) would no doubt give you a price for the part but you'd clearly need an engineer to fit it. Presumably it involves removing the saildrive leg whilst out of the water so not a trivial task...
The local (Waldringfield) engineer who does all the engines in our yard is Peter Coleman (07939 784007) - he'd be my first point of call as doubtless he's tackled one before.
Hope this helps & see you on the water.
Neil
I've not needed to replace mine as yet so not sure - they are reckoned to last between 5-12 years, checked mine before launching this week & it seemed fine, no leaks when I rowed out on Monday to check!
Volspec (01473 219651) would no doubt give you a price for the part but you'd clearly need an engineer to fit it. Presumably it involves removing the saildrive leg whilst out of the water so not a trivial task...
The local (Waldringfield) engineer who does all the engines in our yard is Peter Coleman (07939 784007) - he'd be my first point of call as doubtless he's tackled one before.
Hope this helps & see you on the water.
Neil
Gin
Well-Known Member
I believe the insurance world reckons on replacing every 7 years.
I had a quote of £1500 in 2004 but there was an article in one of the mags for DIY and as long as you have easy access to the unit it didn't seem too difficult
I had a quote of £1500 in 2004 but there was an article in one of the mags for DIY and as long as you have easy access to the unit it didn't seem too difficult
AIDY
Well-Known Member
yup 7 years is the magic number. but most are in good nic when they are changed. there has been a couple of diy articles in sailing today. if you know your way round your engine you should have no problem. we took it out one weekend took the saildrive home to do the biz in the week and put it back the following weekend.
the saildrive seal also comes with fitting instructions and all the torque settings required.
the saildrive seal also comes with fitting instructions and all the torque settings required.
aluijten
Well-Known Member
I've replace mine (Volvo S120) this winter. It can be quite a lot of work depending on how you want to approach it (how thorough, that is). The kit itself sets you back 400 Euro / 250 GBP. However the work involved can be horrible, depending on how accessible the engine is. In my case I decided to replace the propellorshaft seal as well, because I did not trust the oil extracted from the saildrive leg. This however ended up in replacing the whole propellorshaft because it was worn in at the seals. That set me back another 800 Euro / 500 GBP. I also cleaned the leg, removed old anti-fouling, recoated the leg again with epoxy paint etc. etc.. It kept me busy for a month or so (weekend work).
Remounting the engine was the worst part because you need to get the leg and the engine exactly in line before they will join. During this process you need to prevent damage to the new saildrive seal as well.
The saildrive seal itself was not too bad after 13 years (!) but it shouldn't have been any longer there is my guess.
Arno
Remounting the engine was the worst part because you need to get the leg and the engine exactly in line before they will join. During this process you need to prevent damage to the new saildrive seal as well.
The saildrive seal itself was not too bad after 13 years (!) but it shouldn't have been any longer there is my guess.
Arno
snowleopard
Well-Known Member
I can only speak for Yanmar saildrives but I imagine the Volvo is similar. The process involves:
1. Arrange support for rear of engine as the saildrive forms the 3rd mounting point.
2. unbolt the flange around the diaphragm to separate it from the mounting.
3. remove the prop
4. drain the saildrive oil
5. unbolt the bellhousing from the engine
6. undo the aft mounting from the gearbox
7. lift out the leg
8. undo the bolts joining the underwater part of the leg to the gearbox
9. remove the diaphragm.
reverse the process to reassemble
Fairly straightforward if you have easy access to the back of the engine, otherwise a complete b*****.
1. Arrange support for rear of engine as the saildrive forms the 3rd mounting point.
2. unbolt the flange around the diaphragm to separate it from the mounting.
3. remove the prop
4. drain the saildrive oil
5. unbolt the bellhousing from the engine
6. undo the aft mounting from the gearbox
7. lift out the leg
8. undo the bolts joining the underwater part of the leg to the gearbox
9. remove the diaphragm.
reverse the process to reassemble
Fairly straightforward if you have easy access to the back of the engine, otherwise a complete b*****.
