Drooping vinyl headlining fix ..

NickRobinson

NickRobinson

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I've got some saggy non foam-backed vinyl headlining to stick back up, what is the recommended? Evostick or is there something better/cheaper?
Any tips? (I'm planning on gluing and going home, not sleeping on-board, BTW)
 
Just to do a patch up job as opposed to taking it down, cleaning it and putting it back properly, I have found glues like "Sticks Like S**t" work reasonably well - peel the lining back, brush out any loose stuff you can and then generous amounts of glue, supporting the lining against the surface it is being stuck to until the glue sets. Does an ok ish job in the backs of lockers, quarter berths and the like until you are ready to gird your loins, pull it all off and start from scratch... :)
 
I'm a little confused here. He says "I've got some saggy non foam-backed vinyl headlining"
Wouldn't that be straight vinyl?

I've used headlining carpet in my yacht. If it started to sag I think I'd make a tiny little hole and spray contact type of adhesive out of a can with one of those long tubes. But I don't know that you could do that with vinyl sheeting
 
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coopec said:
I'm a little confused here. He says "I've got some saggy non foam-backed vinyl headlining"
Wouldn't that be straight vinyl?

I've used headlining carpet in my yacht. If it started to sag I think I'd make a tiny little hole and spray contact type of adhesive out of a can with one of those long tubes. But I don't know that you could do that with vinyl sheeting
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Correct- no foam backing. I've only got 2/3 places with some droop so don't want to redo it all. Mostly overhead so don't fancy holding them up while the glue grabs, hence thinking about contact adhesives.
I will have some thin carpet wall covering to replace in the fore cabin at some point, but not needed just now.
 
What would happen if you put a tiny hole in the middle of the "droop" with a metal meat skewer and then inserted the tube of a can of spray adhesive and gave it a blast. (You could probably smooth out the hole so it didn't look obvious)
 
coopec said:
What would happen if you put a tiny hole in the middle of the "droop" with a metal meat skewer and then inserted the tube of a can of spray adhesive and gave it a blast. (You could probably smooth out the hole so it didn't look obvious)
Click to expand...

And then put this sticker over it?

hole.jpg
 
NickRobinson said:
Cheers guys- I'd expected to be spraying or applying contact adhesive to two surfaces while getting high.
Hadn't considered applying stuff with a caulk gun
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If you do it with a Caulking gun, then you must spread it out flat before fixing otherwise you will see the lines of the glue through the vinyl. I use Sticks like shit, but as it is not a wet area, the screwfix stuff may be as good and cheaper.
 
Foam??????
When I asked the same question a few years back, 'how to stick back a bubble in vinyl lining' I got advice from another forumite who I had never met, a couple of days later he turned up with a spray can of contact carpet adhesive. I made about three short slits with a scalpel to let the air out. inserted the spray tube through each in turn sprayed with rotation to wet all the surfaces, waited half an hour and rubbed it into place, the wee slits were invisible.
Thanks Wully, it was a great job.
 
The main reason the adhesives fail in the first place is the liberal use of low temperature tolerant spray adhesives in boatbuilding. The correct stuff to use is high temperature tolerant contact adhesives that can be purchased from specialist suppliers for the purpose. Most spray can products will stick it back up but in a while it will again droop. Also the residue of old glue will be broken down by the solvent (usually Toluene) which will make matters worse. Sorry but the only lasting answer is to remove the old, thoroughly clean the surface and lightly abrade before gluing up new material having coated both surfaces beforehand, not just one. If however there is only a small bubble you could try spray cans but any large areas forget it!
 
NickRobinson said:
My task is some quite large bits, not just making good small blisters eg under the companionway where I'd pull one end downView attachment 57143
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Then you may well expend more time and effort trying to patch up what you have than doing the "proper job" Suggest you talk to Hawke House Marine (Alan Dring) or someone similar to obtain replacement Vinyl and the proper high temperature adhesive. It's not difficult if you listen to his advice. I would also firmly advise using foam backed vinyl as it is easier to do and produces a much nicer job in the end.
 
The vinyl is also available at most large Dunelm Mill stores and even fabric suppliers.
Several popular colours available but most importantly white.

Buy off the roll at around £8 to £12 a metre I think, the roll is about 2 metres wide.

No need to go to the specialist suppliers or spend a fortune
 
boatmike said:
The main reason the adhesives fail in the first place is the liberal use of low temperature tolerant spray adhesives in boatbuilding. The correct stuff to use is high temperature tolerant contact adhesives that can be purchased from specialist suppliers for the purpose. Most spray can products will stick it back up but in a while it will again droop. Also the residue of old glue will be broken down by the solvent (usually Toluene) which will make matters worse. Sorry but the only lasting answer is to remove the old, thoroughly clean the surface and lightly abrade before gluing up new material having coated both surfaces beforehand, not just one. If however there is only a small bubble you could try spray cans but any large areas forget it!
Click to expand...

Adhesive failure is also caused by migration of the plasticizers used in the pvc and I have not managed to find a manufacturer of an alternative adhesive to the one specially formulated for Hawke House, who will guarantee extended life bonding to grp, particularly in warmer climates. Bonding to wood isn't a problem and some pva based adhesives work OK.
 
boatmike said:
Then you may well expend more time and effort trying to patch up what you have than doing the "proper job" Suggest you talk to Hawke House Marine (Alan Dring) or someone similar to obtain replacement Vinyl and the proper high temperature adhesive. It's not difficult if you listen to his advice. I would also firmly advise using foam backed vinyl as it is easier to do and produces a much nicer job in the end.
Click to expand...

+1 for Hawke House - very good (no connection except as very satisfied customer). As to foam backed versus plain vinyl, I agree with you about direct application to the deckhead, but for detachable panels the pros and cons are more evenly divided IMO.
 
Assuming you can get to the back of it - carpet spray adhesive (I always use the high temp stuff as it has the potential to get warm). Used it to do exactly this on my own boat last weekend. Sprayed, let that start to dry, then sprayed again, waited a short while then placed together like a contact adhesive (still held it for a few minutes though to stop any slippage). Nice smell too but thats another story :-).
 
The "nice smell" is Toluene Di-Isocyanate (TDI) and can do you a lot of no good....... Ventilate well! If you are after the "other" effects whacky baccy is far nicer and won't kill you!
 
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