Neeves
Well-Known Member
We have a mark on our snubbers, at the turning block (this is at about 9m) and we can see how the snubbers stretch. If the wind is blowing, say, at 30 knots the snubbers are already stretched and unless you mark where zero is you do not know what the base line is - and the gusts might be 40 knots.
We do not use a buoy on a short line and have never had the need (but one day maybe). We would not consider our anchor 'set' unless it has disappeared (it has no roll bar) - and then of course if you have no datum you do not how disappeared it is! We mark (different colour cable ties) the chain closest to the anchor at 1m intervals from the shackle - then we know how much chain is buried. If we had a buoyed line I'd be marking the line as well so that I knew how deep the anchor was buried - though you can crudely work out the depth, of the shackle, using simple geometry.
Jonathan
edit - because the snubber absorbs all the shock loads (assuming the correct length of snubber) the chain hook does not actually need to be strong, it just needs to stay on and if the chain is in tension it should not fall off anyway. Modern fashion is for dyneema soft shackles (and as I mention we find them far too fiddly to attach to 8mm chain) instead of a chain hook. One reason is you can retrieve the chain over the bow roller and then disengage the soft shackle. The implication is that you need the strength of the dyneema - I suspect its not the strength that is needed but abrasion resistance. We are happy using a chain hook, a one handed operation. Of course if you have a very short snubber then the chain hook (or the soft shackle) takes a full snatch load and does need to be strong. - close edit
We do not use a buoy on a short line and have never had the need (but one day maybe). We would not consider our anchor 'set' unless it has disappeared (it has no roll bar) - and then of course if you have no datum you do not how disappeared it is! We mark (different colour cable ties) the chain closest to the anchor at 1m intervals from the shackle - then we know how much chain is buried. If we had a buoyed line I'd be marking the line as well so that I knew how deep the anchor was buried - though you can crudely work out the depth, of the shackle, using simple geometry.
Jonathan
edit - because the snubber absorbs all the shock loads (assuming the correct length of snubber) the chain hook does not actually need to be strong, it just needs to stay on and if the chain is in tension it should not fall off anyway. Modern fashion is for dyneema soft shackles (and as I mention we find them far too fiddly to attach to 8mm chain) instead of a chain hook. One reason is you can retrieve the chain over the bow roller and then disengage the soft shackle. The implication is that you need the strength of the dyneema - I suspect its not the strength that is needed but abrasion resistance. We are happy using a chain hook, a one handed operation. Of course if you have a very short snubber then the chain hook (or the soft shackle) takes a full snatch load and does need to be strong. - close edit
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