DP-G Trim Sensor Replacement

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Took out sensor Volvo Part No. 873531 today, needs replacing.

I notice that on RepowerMarine, the sensor seems to be cheaper than other suppliers: https://repowermarine.com/index.php...lvo-penta-290-sp-dp-repl-22314183-873531.html

Anyone got any experience with them?

-Edit- It's probably not a 'genuine' Volvo part. But the original Volvo part which I removed (with the Volvo part no. on it) had a 'Made in Japan' underneath the Volvo part no. sticker! There were also 2 OE ID numbers. One of them didn't show anything online, and the other one (I guess the OE part no. ) was worn down.

 

[Fishtigua]

Hmm..Yes, always haul the boat out twice to fit a cheaper part. Winner, winner, KFC just showed us.

The Keypart ones are about a tenner cheaper, but then you have to get the little screws.

Who wins?

 

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Hmm..Yes, always haul the boat out twice to fit a cheaper part. Winner, winner, KFC just showed us.

The Keypart ones are about a tenner cheaper, but then you have to get the little screws.

Who wins?

KeyPart didn't actually come up in a Google Search as they were using a different part no. (newer one possibly)

May aswell just get the genuine one from KeyPart, as I want to get some Genuine belts... do the whole lot in one go.

 

[BruceK]

I've just replaced mine for a DPD leg with a pattern from Keypart. It works just fine but was a palava to fit. Had to remove the steering helmet and push the gear leg up into the sensor. Could not get the sensor to fit the gear leg from the top. Whether a genuine part would have made any difference I dont know but to the naked eye the original looked no different to the pattern part except the wires on the pattern part came out from the top rather than the side and so the clamping plate was shaped slightly differently

 

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I've just replaced mine for a DPD leg with a pattern from Keypart. It works just fine but was a palava to fit. Had to remove the steering helmet and push the gear leg up into the sensor. Could not get the sensor to fit the gear leg from the top. Whether a genuine part would have made any difference I dont know but to the naked eye the original looked no different to the pattern part except the wires on the pattern part came out from the top rather than the side and so the clamping plate was shaped slightly differently

That doesn't sound like fun! Well, when I removed the old sensor, I was able to pop it back in without issue... I really hope I don't have the same issues as you! It was a nightmare to remove (had to sand away some of the transom above it... I guess from new the sensor is already in place, and Cranchi installed leaving not enough space to remove the sensor... 10 min job turned into 2 hour and lots of scrapes)

 

[BruceK]

It's never simple, and certainly not when trying to squeeze between two engines to get to it. I had to remove the heat exchanger and supercharger to clear space. In the end though, it took two hours of being cramped wishing you had a second elbow joint and failing that I decided to go from the leg up. Removing the steering helmet is not that big a job and so managed in about half an hour to fit. What I also found though is there were some baby barnacles under the gear wheel that lifted it up just a fraction. We're only talking a mm or two, but it was enough to create problems and I believe the demise of the sensor. Not the smartest of designs imo.

 

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It's never simple, and certainly not when trying to squeeze between two engines to get to it. I had to remove the heat exchanger and supercharger to clear space. In the end though, it took two hours of being cramped wishing you had a second elbow joint and failing that I decided to go from the leg up. Removing the steering helmet is not that big a job and so managed in about half an hour to fit. What I also found though is there were some baby barnacles under the gear wheel that lifted it up just a fraction. We're only talking a mm or two, but it was enough to create problems and I believe the demise of the sensor. Not the smartest of designs imo.

As engine bay's go, I have lots of space, so I could get to the sensor without too much issue.

I'm on fresh water, so only have to worry about slime, rather than actual growth. I'm really hoping the sensor just pops in easily.

Calibrating will be fun, no doubt.

 

[volvopaul]

The fitting of this part is all down to the boat builder, some make it easy other don’t give a monkeys , the main part to remove it the air inlet pipe from the turbo to the intercooler , the air inlet pipe on the kad series also makes it easier. The sensor should lift out once the fork is off, over the years salt seizes it into the helmet so it’s boat out the water then to change it .
Sadly the later DPH sensor can be even worse due to engine installation and it’s location

 

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The fitting of this part is all down to the boat builder, some make it easy other don’t give a monkeys , the main part to remove it the air inlet pipe from the turbo to the intercooler , the air inlet pipe on the kad series also makes it easier. The sensor should lift out once the fork is off, over the years salt seizes it into the helmet so it’s boat out the water then to change it .
Sadly the later DPH sensor can be even worse due to engine installation and it’s location

You've hit the nail on the head, from my experience today.

Thankfully, the engine bay in the Smeraldo 37 is very spacious, so no need to remove the [turbo to intercooler] pipe. However, when I lay down on top of the engine, removing that pipe would have been necessary if I didn't have an alternative.

However, I was able to access the sensor from the side (although I could have done with a double-jointed elbow and my arms look like they've been in a tiger cage)

The sensor slid right out (once I shaved a bit off the transom) ... from what you've said, being in fresh water may have helped!

 

[simonfraser]

are the DPE sensors 'accessible' from the inside past the turbo too ?

 

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are the DPE sensors 'accessible' from the inside past the turbo too ?

From what I can tell, the DPE is the exact same set-up. Whether or not you can access it all depends on the boat. I see your avatar is an Aquador... from looking in the engine bay of one not so long ago, access to the rear of the engine isin't great. Maybe take some pics and someone can advise.

 

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Ended up purchasing a genuine part from Prior Diesel, as I had some other parts to order.

Exceptional communication and competitive prices.

 

[simonfraser]

tnx for confirming its done from the inside.

for the pics the rear seat / cover / engine lid has to come off.
no hurry, i will keep that in mind for next time we take it apart.

 

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tnx for confirming its done from the inside.

for the pics the rear seat / cover / engine lid has to come off.
no hurry, i will keep that in mind for next time we take it apart.

If you can remove your rear seat allowing you access to the rear of the engine, in theory you should be able to slip your hand in under that air pipe that VP mentions (between turbo and intercooler).

Just pray that they've cut away enough of the transom for you to pull the sender out.

 

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If you can remove your rear seat allowing you access to the rear of the engine, in theory you should be able to slip your hand in under (or over) that air pipe that VP mentions (between turbo and intercooler).

Just pray that they've cut away enough of the transom for you to pull the sender out.

 

[simonfraser]

tnx, will keep that in mind and pull it out / off now i know where it is and what it looks like.

 

[BruceK]

The fitting of this part is all down to the boat builder, some make it easy other don’t give a monkeys , the main part to remove it the air inlet pipe from the turbo to the intercooler , the air inlet pipe on the kad series also makes it easier. The sensor should lift out once the fork is off, over the years salt seizes it into the helmet so it’s boat out the water then to change it .
Sadly the later DPH sensor can be even worse due to engine installation and it’s location

not viable on mine. My hatch door doesn't go that far down the engines and the gap between the engine top and floor would only be big enough for my 8 year old to fit between. Child labour is verbotten though. The OEM's idea of access would be from the outer sides. There is more than a meter space there. Unfortunately they are now filled with battery banks on one side and a 400 litre black water tank on the other. Neither OEM, however both are useful.