Me too.We’ve been there with Birdseye before on the subject of VMG… I gave up.
Really?yes
I also did vector maths
Being rude about someone else's boat makes you look even more silly.Me too.
Remember Flaming, he's asking about an old Westerly bilge keeler and not the sort of thing you sail.
It's your contention that using VMG to waypoint is the best way forward that I have the issue with. And that's the same for a moth and the tubbiest of tubs.Me too.
Remember Flaming, he's asking about an old Westerly bilge keeler and not the sort of thing you sail.
Its your contention that you can sail purely by the wind and ignore the location of the mark or the tides that I have issue with. In the final analysis, what matters is how fast you get to the next mark and that doesnt solely depend on boat speed . Direction over the ground matters too.It's your contention that using VMG to waypoint is the best way forward that I have the issue with. And that's the same for a moth and the tubbiest of tubs.
That is not at all what I'm saying....Its your contention that you can sail purely by the wind and ignore the location of the mark or the tides that I have issue with.
That is not at all what I'm saying....
I'll have one more go....
For any boat, from lightweight 30ft tris to bilge keelers, there is an optimum downwind angle to get downwind at the best VMG. These angles widen as the breeze drops. If your next leg is within the cone formed by these angles, such that you would have to sail lower than your optimum downwind VMG to get to it, then you will be faster sailing those angles (assuming good gybes etc) than you will be pointing straight at the mark, always. The slower the boat and the stronger the wind, the narrower those angles are. To the point where for more traditional boats in 15kts plus they are effectively 180. But even in traditional boats those angles will be wide in 6 knots of breeze. Look at those polars up thread, that's a 60 degree "cone" in 6kts of wind.
If you choose your downwind angle using VMG to waypoint, you are going to get it wrong on occasion. And those will be mostly when the mark is NOT dead downwind, but is off to one side, whilst still being within that cone. Under those circumstances is might look better on VMG to waypoint to sail just a bit lower and point straight at the mark.
BUT it isn't the instantaneous VMG to the mark that is the important measure, it's the total VMG to the mark over the course of the leg. If I sail a bit higher and faster than you, then my VMG to the waypoint might be a little slower initially. However, when I then gybe on the layline for the mark my entire boatspeed is now at the mark, and my boatspeed is higher than yours because I'm sailing higher, so my VMG is a lot higher. If my average VMG over the whole leg is higher, then I will arrive first. This is easy to see on the water, if I sail a hotter angle but am not going forwards relative to you such that a gybe will just take me back to you, or behind you, then your angle is better. If however I inch forward and get to a point where a gybe would take me clear across your bow, then I've sailed a better downwind angle, and despite your VMG to waypoint being initially higher than mine, I'm now ahead..
Golden rule of thumb is if your mark is within the cone, you always, always sail your best downwind angles. It is extremely rare to gain an advantage by sailing lower than your best downwind VMG over a leg of any length. Noting of course, as per my 1st post in this thread, that in reasonable breeze for the type of boat the OP is sailing, 180 degrees may well be the best angle.... But it certainly won't be in light winds.
This is simply about how to get downwind the fastest way possible. The application of tides, and which side of the course you should favour etc is a completely different topic. You are confusing how to sail the boat fast with tactics. Best upwind and downwind VMG angles are just about getting the most performance out of the boat. Deciding how to use that performance to position the boat on the race track to take advantage of tides or windshifts is tactics.
The boatspeed are too high, but the shape won't be far wrong.This is a really interesting thread, thanks everyone.
Do you think the polar plot posted higher up be reasonably applicable to a GK29?
I may have missed it , but I do not see if the OP was sailing a 2 sail race or a 3 sail one. If 3 sail, is it an asymetric?- Which totally changes the angles & so much of what has been said needs updating. Down wind with a spinnaker changes the angles again.
Plus boat speed. If the boat is travelling very near max knots dead down wind, does one need to start gybing? But then how many courses are dead down wind? There is usually some bias.
The boatspeed are too high, but the shape won't be far wrong.
So you are sailing a 3 sail race. Have I got that correct?It was light winds using two sails as I use a atn tacker around my furled headsail
Just for clarity , I wasn’t sailing straight down wind rather sailing just enough off downwind to keep the headsail full , my original question was about the trade off between boat speed and distance to the mark by bringing the wind more towards the beam and how to work out the best angle, I now think that another 10deg would have given more speed at the cost of a slight increase in distance sailed. I am grateful for all the advice givenSo you are sailing a 3 sail race. Have I got that correct?
That alters the plan a lot.If one is flying an asymetrical sail then hiding it behind the main by running dead down wind would certainly be wrong.
The angles would be markedly higher. Furthermore, With a sail that has its foot anchored high up to the forestay rather than being allowed to fly forward with the luff well forward & free will mean a different approach as well
You use the term " headsail", but earlier mention anATM asm fixed to the forestay. I assume you were using an asymetric sail down wind ( with the strop round the furled jib)Just for clarity , I wasn’t sailing straight down wind rather sailing just enough off downwind to keep the headsail full , my original question was about the trade off between boat speed and distance to the mark by bringing the wind more towards the beam and how to work out the best angle, I now think that another 10deg would have given more speed at the cost of a slight increase in distance sailed. I am grateful for all the advice given
I did try goosewinging but it felt slower, but I know that feelings can be deceiving hence the original postYou use the term " headsail", but earlier mention anATM asm fixed to the forestay. I assume you were using an asymetric sail down wind ( with the strop round the furled jib)
If running fairly dead down wind did you think of goose wing?
Pull the main aft a bit, such that the wind hits the leech first & the wind passes the opposite way across the sail. This then pushes extra wind into the asymetric sail to keep it full; which could be poled out on the opposite hand.
The wind then hits the sail & flows round the forestay (or in this case luff of the asym) forward
It is a technique that can be used in light winds when the sea is fairly flat & the sails are not being thrown out of balance.
The yacht can sail dead down wind & thus the shortest course.
Would this suit heavier displacement types ( relative) that can keep going through short lulls, due to their weight, but not respond so quick on the higher gybes in the gusty bits as a sportier boat might?
You can have funny times goosewinging especially if the main can be fully squared-off, where 15 Deg either side of a dead run(with flow over the sails in either direction) is faster and better VMg than a dead run. Similar to a Laser.I did try goosewinging but it felt slower, but I know that feelings can be deceiving hence the original post