Doing a saildrive seal on Volvo D2-55 - anything else to do at the same time?

[dunedin]

With a LOT of trepidation I am considering biting the bullet and getting the saildrive seal replaced on our 2012 Volvo Penta D2-55F.
(Trepidation as I have herd of quite a few cases of seal problems AFTER changing, but none from people leaving seals unmolested for decades!)

There is ZERO chance of me doing this DIY, so will be an expensive job by the local VP dealer (circa £2k estimate earlier this year - made more tricky as seal is underneath a GRP hull fairing).

The Engine has now done circa 1,700 hours and generally been reliable. Been serviced regularly, but no extra work (other than new MDI's and s/s exhaust elbow).
Nothing has been done to the saildrive except oil changes (generally done afloat by sucking out, which gets most but not all). The prop was briefly removed 8 years ago to fit an Ambassador Rope Stripper.
There is a very occasional very slight trace of oil in the under engine tray, perhaps coming from somewhere towards the rear of the engine (perhaps every 10 days or so of use I get enough to make a slight smear on a kitchen roll sheet). Oil consumption in 175 hours this season was less than 0,5 litre.

Whilst the boat is out of the water and the engine moved forward, is there anything worth getting the engineer to check / replace at the same time ?
Wondering about any difficult to access oil seals at back of engine, or saildrive seals (but again worry about messing with things which don't appear to be currently broken)
Should I replace the inlet seacock on the saildrive, although this seems entirely fine?

Thanks

 

[Tranona]

Can't comment on any engine work as depends on what they find when they split it. However definitely replace the seals in the lower drive unit. I expect they will have to take the seal housing and shaft off to get the drive out through the boat.

 

[dunedin]

Can't comment on any engine work as depends on what they find when they split it. However definitely replace the seals in the lower drive unit. I expect they will have to take the seal housing and shaft off to get the drive out through the boat.

Thanks Tranona. Any idea what the name of the specific seals to be changed are, so I can ensure added to the work spec?
Thought these might be worthwhile.
Assume not wasting money changing engine oil now (always do at end of season) as won’t need to be drained, but not bother doing saildrive oil as will be drained when do seals?

 

[Martin_J]

You are correct, the engine oil does not need to be drained when the gearbox/leg are removed.

I was just trying to find a diagram on the Internet showing the seals (and large o-rings) and this website was the first in my search..

VP 120S saildrive – oil seals

 

[dunedin]

You are correct, the engine oil does not need to be drained when the gearbox/leg are removed.

I was just trying to find a diagram on the Internet showing the seals (and large o-rings) and this website was the first in my search..

VP 120S saildrive – oil seals

View attachment 164403

Brilliant thanks, our saildrive is the 130S but sure will be broadly similar (engineer will of course check and order precise seals needed).

 

[Tranona]

Yes that is a 130 drive like you will have. Replace the ringed items at least and ask them to check th shaft and bearings. all the bits come in a Volvo seal kit.

 

[Martin_J]

The other thing I've always done is to clean up and repaint the metal clamp ring that holds the saildrive diaphragm in place..

They're rather expensive expensive bits to replace..



I don't know if your engineer will just suggest a replacement, but if the ring looks slightly rusty, cleaning it up and repainting is one thing you could do.

Regarding the Ambassador stripper.. remember there is a service kit for it that contains new plastic washers (that are called 'bearings') that ought to be changed when the clearance reduces between the cutting blades.

Instructions at the link here...

Ambassador Marine

 

[Martin_J]

That bit about painting the clamp ring... I tend to pull the leg out one weekend (it takes just a couple of hours)..

Then I have the evenings all week to clean up and paint the clamp ring, fit the new diaphragm between the gearbox and leg then replace the prop shaft seals.

Then the following weekend it's just a case of dropping it all back in place, refitting the prop and refilling with oil.

Note: What makes leg removal quicker was that I have previously replaced all the pipes/hoses with ones that were each about 3" longer... so when sliding the engine forward a few inches, nothing needs to be disconnected.