Dock lines, to eye or not

G

Gwylan

Well-Known Member
Joined
31 May 2007
Messages
3,651
Location
Moved ashore
Visit site
On the home mooring we have sturdy lines that are sized [for a 10m boat] to fit us perfectly in the mud that passes for a berth.

Now, when we travel we like a selection of lengths [of mooring line]. The Admiral of the fleet likes them to all match [ urgh!]
So I have aquired a long length of dock line that I intend to cut into 2 lengths of 12m, 2 lengths of 6m and one length of 20m and a bit left over - probably another 10m.

The colour of the whipping twine indicates the length of the line. I really am that bad.
Do not ever give me a DYMO labelling machine!

I travel with crew of a wide range of skill, competence and intelligence - arriving can be interesting.
Given the colours I can suggest that they put a 12m lenth on the bow and stern and a 6m amidships. That usually works

The question is should I splice an eye in one end and whip the other end or just whip both end?
Or should I have to hope they can tie a bowline in the end that is going to be attached to the boat?

Or should I make do with the collection of sash cord and washing line that we use at present and get out more?
 
I would go for an eye on one end however I think 6m is too short for midship Lines and would go for 8m. Also not much point in a spare line so why not leave it on the long one?

Yoda
 
I have found on occasion that if the end with an eye is passed ashore (the wrong end) that it can jam on the cleat when you pull away and want it to run.
 
You don't need a spliced eye. Right Pain if there is any tension in the line and you want to let it go at that end. And if you try to pull it through (as in letting go a singled (ie double) line while everyone is on the boat) it will get stuck.

If you need a loop, make a bowline.
 
Have an eye on one end of each line. That way you can moor properly without leaving piles of line on the dock, and your crew don't need to tie bowlines. You can also adjust your lines without having to go ashore. How do you moor properly with one line each end and one in the middle? :rolleyes:
 
bluerm166 said:
I have found on occasion that if the end with an eye is passed ashore (the wrong end) that it can jam on the cleat when you pull away and want it to run.
Click to expand...
That is the right end to pass ashore when you secure alongside.

blackbeard said:
You don't need a spliced eye. Right Pain if there is any tension in the line and you want to let it go at that end. And if you try to pull it through (as in letting go a singled (ie double) line while everyone is on the boat) it will get stuck.

If you need a loop, make a bowline.
Click to expand...
1. If you're moored properly you ease your line at the other end. In any case, it's extremely difficult to untie a bowline under load.
2. You slip the end that doesn't have the eye.
 
Use loops in the end & crew can fix to deck cleats ready for sending line ashore. If you have to tie bowlines on you often find a person at each end of the line faffing. You only need one person with the other end fixed. One each end & one can pull the other in the drink.

Use longer lines for the springs. you can see if these fall in as you approach a pontoon & can act before it gets caught in the prop.
The bow ones need to be short enough not to catch the prop because you may not see one drop overboard from the cockpit
i personally think lines need not be long. If you sit in the marina at a place like St Peter port & watch the idiots trying to tie to pontoons with very long lines that they are trying to sort you would understand why. Especially so with french hoops. Most crews end up with a wadge of rope jammed in the loops.
 
As good a guide as any. http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/products/yacht-ropes---rigging/mooring-warps
(click on "mooring alongside diagram"
Personally, I would never have an eye on my lines. It's easy to tie a bowline if that's what is needed. If crew can't tie a bowline then you can anticipate that and quietly tie one for them without making a song and dance about it. If they then can't use the line you've passed them you should be planning to moor up in a different way.
 
Last edited:
I think as Yoda has said, both ends eyed is misery.

When arriving it doesn't matter as can sort out once stable.

When departing bowlines can be changed but don't slip with an eye (painful Cherbourg departure memory has begun to surface).

Personally I avoid eyes - what's the point? Get stable on arrival with suitable lengths, then sort. On departure, slip as smoothly as possible, or preferably don't slip, just unhook and bye bye.

Never warp out with an eye!
 
blackbeard said:
You don't need a spliced eye. Right Pain if there is any tension in the line and you want to let it go at that end. And if you try to pull it through (as in letting go a singled (ie double) line while everyone is on the boat) it will get stuck.

If you need a loop, make a bowline.
Click to expand...

And another +1

Sooner or later an eye will catch as a warp is being slipped and everyone will see the ensuing mayhem.
 
GHA said:
And another +1

Sooner or later an eye will catch as a warp is being slipped and everyone will see the ensuing mayhem.[/QUOTE

Been there, done it, when young and crewing a chums' Folkboat; tried to slip the headline, which I hadn't been told, should have noticed had an eye in the loose bitter end - it jammed and we went off at record speed powered by both engine and strong tide, then swept in an arc at impressive G force to T-bone the boat on the raft behind.

A guy on that boat saw us coming and put his feet out, then saw our speed and hastily scuttled back; I shall never forget the look on his face.

Amazingly the Folkboats' raked bow rode up and we got away without any damage ( apart from being flung on deck headlong ), but I did make a note about eyes on berthing lines.
Click to expand...
 
We use ropes with presided eyes in one end. Loop fixed end through hole under cleat, then round the horns.
Yes could use bowlines but loops quicke and neater.
Works for pontoons, rafting or moorings. Different approach for very rare occasions when lie alongside tidal wall.
 
Nothing to do with quick or neater it’s what is effective. I have used last season six lines, 2 x length of boat, 2 x 1.5 LOB, and 2 x 2 LOB. All had one end spliced. They were a pain in the backside the spliced ends. If you are going to have a slipping line on a spring use a line that won’t snag on a cleat. I am now buying lines without spliced end and now tying a bow line on the end when required. So much safer and easier to use.
 
I originally spliced loops in one end of all my mooring warps. I eventually decided they were better without and un-spliced them. (Cheaper than buying new ones without splices!)


Regarding lengths ... you never seem to have the right ones in the right places.

Couple of short ones, probably a bit less than a boat length, are very useful and the are the ones to have immediately to hand without burrowing to the bottom of a locker.
 
+1 for eye on one end, nothing on the other. I sail effectively single handed everywhere – usually arriving at unknown destinations in the dark.
I use the eyed end to secure the boat to the pile/cleat/whatever. It is much easier to turn the eye inside out to make it into a long loop (eg if initially going for a cleat but end up going for a pile). IF (and it’s a big if) you are passing it ashore it is easier if the stranger just has to put it over the horns. Not critical but a spliced eye is stronger. Any knots are onboard to allow easier adjustment.
I NEVER exit by pulling the line aboard – even naked line can get caught. I typically untie all but one line, then it, push the boat off then step aboard (and then scramble for the tiller which is attached to the AP).
One trick is to pass the eye under the cleat and pass a ~200m length of say 25mm plastic conduit through the eye. The conduit is attached via a line to the boat – when you want to exit you just pull the light line, the conduit and then the eye are free. I have several made up with floating line.
I no longer whip the ends but use heat shrink – it has the advantage of closing in around the ends (which I’ve trimmed with a heat knife). Different colour for each length. The length of line depends on where your cleats are. Springs should be able to go to a meter or more beyond the bow/stern and allow for rise and fall of tides (11m tides are fun). My bow and stern lines are over twice the boat width so they can be passed ashore then back to the cleat.
For my 10.3m boat my springs are 12m and bow/stern lines 7.
My lines have a spot in one of my cockpit lockers and are held by shockcord loops - I can grab the right length in the dark.
Cheers, Andrew
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Refueler
Bow winch eye ...
Replies
10
Views
229
Refueler
Refueler

Share this page

Top