BurnitBlue
Well-Known Member
Thinking of changing over to Dyneema Standing Rigging from usual Stainless. Do insurance companies accept this material or do they load the premium? Thanks
With all things insurance write to them and ask, get a reply in writing. Anything can be insured; at a cost.Thinking of changing over to Dyneema Standing Rigging from usual Stainless. Do insurance companies accept this material or do they load the premium? Thanks
He is talking about tropical sunshine there. Typical northern European sunshine might be 1/3 or less than that.According to this, Dyneema can lose 40% of it's strength in 4-5 years from UV damage. https://dyneematents.com/dyneema-uv-resistance/
For external use it's normally sheathed in polyester because of that.According to this, Dyneema can lose 40% of it's strength in 4-5 years from UV damage. https://dyneematents.com/dyneema-uv-resistance/
Out of interest ……. Why?Thinking of changing over to Dyneema Standing Rigging from usual Stainless. Do insurance companies accept this material or do they load the premium? Thanks
You can save 40 quid an hour of labour. Dynema is very easy to splice.Out of interest ……. Why?
S/s wire works for most cruising yachts, is well proven and reliable. Unless doing serious racing, and in class rules, why fix stuff that ain’t broken?
From the web -Out of interest ……. Why?
S/s wire works for most cruising yachts, is well proven and reliable. Unless doing serious racing, and in class rules, why fix stuff that ain’t broken?
Yes....You can save 40 quid an hour of labour. Dynema is very easy to splice.
Not really an issue for standing rigging since the exact length of the stay is irrelevant as long as it's a bit short of where it attaches. The tension is added afterwards, same as with stainless.Yes....
But it's significantly more challenging to splice accurately to an exact length. Just getting my double inhauler system to balance took a lot of trial and error.
though you only need to do that once, spend a few hours logging how much a splice reduces the length then next time you can get pretty accurate so the turnbuckles are near the centre of their travel.Yes....
But it's significantly more challenging to splice accurately to an exact length. Just getting my double inhauler system to balance took a lot of trial and error.
Hmmmm. I'm not totally convinced, you'd want the stays to be as accurate as possible so you don't have wildly mis-matched bottlescrews.Not really an issue for standing rigging since the exact length of the stay is irrelevant as long as it's a bit short of where it attaches. The tension is added afterwards, same as with stainless.
The entire purpose of bottlescrews (which aren't used on Dyneema rigging) is to allow for mismatched length stays. You may have OCDyou don't have wildly mis-matched bottlescrews
Well no. The purpose of bottlescrews is to tune the rigging, allowing you control over the shape of the mast. What you definitely do not want is one side to be almost all the way wound down, and one side to be almost all the way unwound for the same tension.The entire purpose of bottlescrews (which aren't used on Dyneema rigging) is to allow for mismatched length stays. You may have OCD![]()
People who have changed report that it is not "set and forget" as most cruisers like to treat their rigging.
Most Dyneema rigs don't use bottlescrews for this, tension is added with some cord. I think you're overstating the importance of rig tuning for most folk, even in racing it's more a fetish than a requirement. Traditionally, "rig tuning" consisted of sailing a broad reach and tightening the leeward side until it wasn't loose, then turning 180 and doing the same.The purpose of bottlescrews is to tune the rigging, allowing you control over the shape of the mast
The point is that Dynema, awesome as it is, does creep. So when used as rigging if you did that same trick, a month later you leeward rigging would be loose and you'd need to do it again. So if you don't like tuning rigging (and I 100% agree with you on the typical relationship between a cruising sailor and rig tuning) then you'd still find yourself needing to do it.Most Dyneema rigs don't use bottlescrews for this, tension is added with some cord. I think you're overstating the importance of rig tuning for most folk, even in racing it's more a fetish than a requirement. Traditionally, "rig tuning" consisted of sailing a broad reach and tightening the leeward side until it wasn't loose, then turning 180 and doing the same.