Do I need to seal around steaming light?

[MattS]

I attached a new Osculati Steaming / Deck Light to the mast - but the shape of the light doesn't exactly match the profile of the mast.



It doesn't sit flush, and in no way is watertight between the light and the mast. Do I need to be trying to prevent water getting behind the light?

It would take a fair wedge of sealant, but I could probably plug the gap between the light and the mast if I was generous with the quantities... do I need to though?

The wires are connected behind the light with heat shrunk crimp connectors.

 

[Rappey]

I personally would not fill it up with sealant. It will prob ably come unstuck from the mast, enabling water to just sit there and oxidise the aluminium. No sealant means it can easily dry out after rain.
You could make sure the connections are watertight along with cable entries.

 

[ghostlymoron]

The view of the rear of the unit needs sealing some how to keep water out of the insides. While you're at it I would protect the cable against chafe where it enters the mast. Use a split grommet or better still undo the cable connectors and put a full grommet.

 

[MoodySabre]

My Osculati steaming/ deck light fits a bit better than that but is not flush. The light seems very well sealed. Ok for the last two winters. I wouldn’t worry. The connectors are more important.

 

[MattS]

The view of the rear of the unit needs sealing some how to keep water out of the insides. While you're at it I would protect the cable against chafe where it enters the mast. Use a split grommet or better still undo the cable connectors and put a full grommet.

Looking at the design of the light, I think it must be a sealed unit. The entry points for all the cables have sealant around them, and there’s no obvious way to get it apart.

I’d have to drill the rivets out to get back behind it and with 3 days to launch I think I might have to skip that one!

 

[MattS]

I personally would not fill it up with sealant. It will prob ably come unstuck from the mast, enabling water to just sit there and oxidise the aluminium. No sealant means it can easily dry out after rain.
You could make sure the connections are watertight along with cable entries.

I’m pretty confident in the connections - the heat shrink connectors are pretty good. I did feel like trying to seal it all in and doing a bad job might just cause more problems....

 

[johnalison]

A lot of boat lights are not sealed against damp or wet. I think that a bit more protection of the rear might be worthwhile as a back-up to your connections, but trying to prevent any water ingress can be unrewarding. I usually follow the advice to switch nav lights on for an hour or so occasionally, and before important trips to allow the heat from my pre-LED bulbs to dry them out.

 

[MikeCC]

Had exactly the same problem with a slim mast profile. I used self-adhesive foam strips, more to pack out the fitting to avoid over-flexing it. Hopefully the strip along top edge will resist water ingress. If you can arrange the wires behind fitting so they loop down below entry points, they should help too. Bit tricky while trying to hold it in place to fix it as well.

 

[Stemar]

I had the same problem a while back. I filled the gap with Isopon P40, the stuff with glass strands in it - both sides and the top. leaving the bottom open. That way, any lines are kept out and any water that gets in can get out again. 15 years later, so far, so good.

 

[penberth3]

I had the same problem a while back. I filled the gap with Isopon P40, the stuff with glass strands in it - both sides and the top. leaving the bottom open. That way, any lines are kept out and any water that gets in can get out again. 15 years later, so far, so good.

That's the important thing, so I'd go the other way - make it stand off a bit, say 5mm. Then you only have the cable hole to seal

 

[MattS]

Thanks for all the tips friends. I think I'm realising I should have done much more before riveting it on, but I might not have run out of time to drill the rivets out and re-do it all... (mast goes back up this week)

I've had a look today, and I think there's a pretty decent gap behind it for water to run through.

The way I've packed the connections in behind it means they have drip loops (of sorts) which might help.

I did leave the cable entrance to the mast un-sealed though, which I guess was probably a mistake in this case. Not sure there's much I can do without taking it off...

I guess I'll be at the mercy of however good Osculati's sealing is on their lights... ?

 

[Windsweptsails]

Thanks for all the tips friends. I think I'm realising I should have done much more before riveting it on, but I might not have run out of time to drill the rivets out and re-do it all... (mast goes back up this week)

I've had a look today, and I think there's a pretty decent gap behind it for water to run through.

The way I've packed the connections in behind it means they have drip loops (of sorts) which might help.

I did leave the cable entrance to the mast un-sealed though, which I guess was probably a mistake in this case. Not sure there's much I can do without taking it off...

I guess I'll be at the mercy of however good Osculati's sealing is on their lights... ?

Hey! I'm in pretty much this exact same scenario, should have put a grommet in the mast hole and sealed the wiring a bit more before riveting the steaming light on. Mast goes up tomorrow. May I ask what you ended up doing and how it has held up?

 

[Stemar]

Seal the top and, if necessary, the sides. Leave the bottom open as a drain and for ventilation.

If water is going up that far above the waterline, a wet steaming light will be the least of your worries.

 

[Refueler]

I have never seen a boat light yet that is really sealed .... best to not try .. leave as designed.

The easier water can drain out - the better ...

 

[Gsailor]

I would spray the circuit board liberally with a special spray (sorry- forget name) that is transparent but waterproofs circuit boards - I would then do as alread mentioned, seal top and sides and leave base open for air to get in (although that will be salt laden air).

electrical circuit waterproof spray - Google Search

I sprayed mine liberally with circuit waterproof spray and riveted it on (with Duralac).

 

[Refueler]

I would spray the circuit board liberally with a special spray (sorry- forget name) that is transparent but waterproofs circuit boards - I would then do as alread mentioned, seal top and sides and leave base open for air to get in (although that will be salt laden air).

electrical circuit waterproof spray - Google Search

I sprayed mine liberally with circuit waterproof spray and riveted it on (with Duralac).

Corrosion X is the real deal .....

But honestly .... take a trip round the marina and look at lights .......

 

[simonfraser]

less salt water up there, so corrosion not as much an issue ?

 

[Windsweptsails]

Thanks for the replies, I sealed the top and sides, mast went up yesterday so we'll see what happens.