Do I need to antifoul this year?

[Poignard]

Last year I had an eye problem which resulted in my boat not being launched until the end of August. She was lifted out and laid up again in mid-November.

The hull was scraped bare and antifouled with Blakes Tiger Cruising in August. I'll probably re-launch in April, this year.

Question: Do I need to bother antifouling again this year or will the existing stuff have lost it's properties during the 5 month layup? [It is still adhering perfectly to the hull]

 

[fireball]

Depends if you're going to get lifted in August I guess! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[VicS]

[ QUOTE ]
Blakes Tiger Cruising

[/ QUOTE ] I can only find Tiger Extra or Cruising Performer so maybe they have changed things a bit. (If they make any changes to the formulation the regulations require them to change the name, or so I believe)

Which ever, if you look at the data sheets on the website for either of those two you'll see the max time before immersion is three months so strictly they will be saying you'll have to apply another coat less than 3 months before you relaunch. I'd be tempted not to but there will be a risk it'll get heavily fouled by the end of another season.

It's your call I reckon! but if youve scrubbed most of it off then you will need to do it again.

 

[Spars]

Just see if it's going as fast as normal.

 

[Grajan]

Antifoulings can "case harden" with lying
my advice would be to apply a thin coat which has the effect of allowing solvent to migrate into the old A/F allowing the underlying layers to release their biocide.

 

[FAITIRA]

[ QUOTE ]
Antifoulings can "case harden" with lying
my advice would be to apply a thin coat which has the effect of allowing solvent to migrate into the old A/F allowing the underlying layers to release their biocide.

[/ QUOTE ]

I would do the same for the same reason, as close as poss to launch day.

 

[Poignard]

Would you bother rubbing down last year's coat? It is only one layer thick and looks very clean.

 

[VicS]

No just wash/scrub it clean and reapply. Just as you would normally!

 

[Bav34]

Cost saving tip:

In our yard we leave the tin and an old brush under the boat. When the boat is lifted the yard guys dob antifoul on where the props were. (Don't know how effective this is as the boats are in the water soon after)

ANYWAY, they then throw the cans in the paint bin.

I reckon that if you waited you could prob get 50 x 1/2 an inch of antifoul saved up.

What colour would you get? Blue plus black plus red plus white .......... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[FAITIRA]

[ QUOTE ]
Would you bother rubbing down last year's coat? It is only one layer thick and looks very clean.

[/ QUOTE ]

Personly, yes I would give it a light rub down, just to make sure it keyed, it would be an expensive disaster for subsequent coats if it didn,t key well and they flaked.

 

[Malish]

I tend only to antifoul every couple of years. At the start of a non-antifoul season I simply take a coarse plastic scourer to the hull and scrub off the surface coating, I may retouch the leading edge etc if I break through to the previous coat of antifoul (which will be a different colour). Fouling has never been a problem other than some barnacles on the prop (which is treated every year!); the boat is based in a locked marina which may help.

 

[VicS]

[ QUOTE ]
yes I would give it a light rub down

[/ QUOTE ] Extract from the data sheet for blakes Tiger Xtra:


2. BLAKES TIGER XTRA
SURFACE
PREPARATION: Existing antifouling: Remove possible oil and grease, etc, with a suitable detergent BLAKES
SURFACE CLEANER followed by (high pressure) fresh water cleaning, also to remove any loose
or flaking leached antifouling. Allow the surface to dry before recoating. Whether or not to use a
sealer coat depends on the type and condition of the existing antifouling.
APPLICATION
CONDITIONS: The surface must be completely clean and dry. Application should only take place in dry weather
and the temperature of the surface should be above the dew point to avoid condensation. The
temperature of the paint itself should be above 150C/590F. Avoid direct sunlight. In confined
spaces provide adequate ventilation during application and drying



No suggestion there that any rubbing down is required but if sanding the bottom of a boat unnecessarily turns you on remember it must not be done dry as the dust created is toxic

 

[alan006]

I think this is common practice in most yards to paint where the blocks were just before she goes in. It seems to work as antifoul surface dries very quickly and when the boats come out there is no evidence of the touched up areas having worse fouling than the rest.

 

[FAITIRA]

I have no problem with your opinion Vic, I have stated mine, don,t want to get into a pedantic discussion over trivia.
I,m sure I have done myself no good, but I have been dry sanding antifouling for about 44yrs, too late to worry now, also worked in clouds of asbestos, too late now. I smoke, too late, don,t preach, others have tried, finally, I will save you saying it, I do consider others when practicing my bad practices. Bill.

 

[FAITIRA]

[ QUOTE ]
I tend only to antifoul every couple of years. At the start of a non-antifoul season I simply take a coarse plastic scourer to the hull and scrub off the surface coating, I may retouch the leading edge etc if I break through to the previous coat of antifoul (which will be a different colour). Fouling has never been a problem other than some barnacles on the prop (which is treated every year!); the boat is based in a locked marina which may help.

[/ QUOTE ]

If there is a significant difference in the salinity of the water, in or outside the lock, it certainly will make a difference to fouling, Ive found, after it was pointed out to me by others, that it helps a lot to get up a river if poss for a week occasionally, amazing how the crap drops off. Bill.

 

[Malish]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I tend only to antifoul every couple of years. At the start of a non-antifoul season I simply take a coarse plastic scourer to the hull and scrub off the surface coating, I may retouch the leading edge etc if I break through to the previous coat of antifoul (which will be a different colour). Fouling has never been a problem other than some barnacles on the prop (which is treated every year!); the boat is based in a locked marina which may help.

[/ QUOTE ]

If there is a significant difference in the salinity of the water, in or outside the lock, it certainly will make a difference to fouling, Ive found, after it was pointed out to me by others, that it helps a lot to get up a river if poss for a week occasionally, amazing how the crap drops off. Bill.

[/ QUOTE ]

Doubt there is much difference, some surface runoff into the marina I guess but little else. It may help that there are a reasonable number of boats in close proximity in relatively static water.