Do I need a generator (Honda 1kw), on a UK circumnavigation

Scotty_Tradewind said:
Hi Robert.

I really liked this DIY windvane when I saw it up at the London Show. I have tried to get my son interested in one to fit to his Marieholm Folk Boat but other things have taken precedence for the moment.

I'd be very much interested to know how you get on with it after a few hundred miles.

S.
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OK, I'll keep you informed - that is assuming I can get it fitted and able to use it!
I'm new to vane-self-steering. Just another learning curve to inflict on the leetle grey cells!
 
Seajet said:
Angus,

genuine question; do you feel the need for a coolbox in Scottish waters ?
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Not absolutely necessary, no. I have sailed with one and without one, but I prefer to be with it. Fresh food keeps safe for up to 2 weeks with it which is freedom enhancing in Scotland because decent food shops waterside can be few and far between.
 
Seajet said:
Jumbleduck,

thanks. I once tried a 12 volt plug in coolbox, without doing my sums; it sucked my 65A/H battery inside out in double quick time !
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Oh, I wouldn't dream of electric. The Peltier ones are hopelessly inefficient and the compressor ones only work at a reasonable scale, so both suck batteries dry in no time. I generally try to load up with 10kg of ice, which unless the weather is heat-wavey will last at least a week, and make regular top-ups when I can. It's generally about a pound per kilogram, and a tenner a week is lost in the noise of a trip.
 
Robert Wilson said:
http://www.bestecoshop.com/100w-12v...nectors.html?gclid=CN60vdinlsQCFdMatAodp2QALQ

£206

Any thoughts on this?
Seems a full package - for a low.ish price????
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Looks OK to me. The controller on its own is about thirty quid, so you're getting the 100W panel for £180. I bought two 50W last year, which cost me £100 and £150 ... I suspect the one in your link is rigid, which is better if you mount it.

If you do go for that controller, I'd strongly recommend the remote display as well, which lets ypu see what's happening, monitor the batteries and mount the controller where it wants to be, right next to the batteries. I have that setup and I'm very pleased with it.

41hGTietx3L._SX342_.jpg


Note: there are two identical looking remote displays, one for the single battery controllers (10A and 20A) and one for the dual (again, both 10A and 20A). Make sure you get teh right one if you don't buy them together. The dual battery display comes with a MUCH longer cable, which is a good cross-check.
 
JumbleDuck said:
Looks OK to me. The controller on its own is about thirty quid, so you're getting the 100W panel for £180. I bought two 50W last year, which cost me £100 and £150 ... I suspect the one in your link is rigid, which is better if you mount it.

If you do go for that controller, I'd strongly recommend the remote display as well, which lets ypu see what's happening, monitor the batteries and mount the controller where it wants to be, right next to the batteries. I have that setup and I'm very pleased with it.

41hGTietx3L._SX342_.jpg


Note: there are two identical looking remote displays, one for the single battery controllers (10A and 20A) and one for the dual (again, both 10A and 20A). Make sure you get teh right one if you don't buy them together. The dual battery display comes with a MUCH longer cable, which is a good cross-check.
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Thanks,
It seems like a good idea/deal. Certainly a lot less than the likes of Force4.
I'll investigate further; in the meantime, if anyone else has comments (good, or bad) I'd welcome them. As I'm sure others "on here" would.
Thanks
Robert
 
JumbleDuck said:
Oh, I wouldn't dream of electric. The Peltier ones are hopelessly inefficient and the compressor ones only work at a reasonable scale, so both suck batteries dry in no time.
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It also depends on the amount of insulation (not much in the cheapo Peltier ones, much more in the Waeco compressor boxes) and also the volume that is being kept cool, because more volume equals more surface area of the sides of the cooled volume for heat transfer so more power required to keep that volume cool. This is where the CF-18 excels - excellent insulation, efficient compressor and cooled small volume. 420 mA average even with my outboard engine powered boat I can afford in my energy budget with my 30W solar panel.
 
AngusMcDoon said:
It also depends on the amount of insulation (not much in the cheapo Peltier ones, much more in the Waeco compressor boxes) and also the volume that is being kept cool, because more volume equals more surface area of the sides of the cooled volume for heat transfer so more power required to keep that volume cool. This is where the CF-18 excels - excellent insulation, efficient compressor and cooled small volume. 420 mA average even with my outboard engine powered boat I can afford in my energy budget with my 30W solar panel.
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A heat transfer pedant writes...

Generally, small things are less efficient to cool than big ones: it's a square-cube thing - if you half the dimension you have a quarter of the surface area (and therefore heat gain) but only an eighth of the volume, so although you are using a lot less power it keeps a lot, lot less cool.

However, you are absolutely right about the importance of insulation. What most people forget is that radiation is a major route for loss of coolth (the physicist hated us cryogenics people for things like that), so as well as traditional foam insulation, a good coolbox should have lots of reflective layers round it as well, shiny side out. Metallised plastic film is good for this. The CF-18 looks pretty good, I have to say.
 
JumbleDuck said:
A heat transfer pedant writes...

Generally, small things are less efficient to cool than big ones: it's a square-cube thing - if you half the dimension you have a quarter of the surface area (and therefore heat gain) but only an eighth of the volume, so although you are using a lot less power it keeps a lot, lot less cool.
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That's all wonderfully engineeringly true, but as they get smaller they do use less juice, even if the juice/internal volume ratio increases. The really tiny one uses 290 mA...

http://www.my-caravanning.com/en/products/cooling/compressor-coolers/WAECO-CoolFreeze-CDF-11/44857

You are right about the efficiency though. This big one is 6 times the volume but less than twice the juice consumption of the smallest...

http://www.my-caravanning.com/en/products/cooling/compressor-coolers/WAECO-CoolFreeze-CFX-65/64483
 
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Anchor oil lamp proper one in the fore triangle , keep your spare battery charged up with a crocodile clip linkage when your plugged in go to the pub as often as possible enjoy the craic stop flapping and just do it. Leave the Jenny at home, experience is what clever people cal mistakes, it's fun crack on
 
JVL said:
Anchor oil lamp proper one in the fore triangle , keep your spare battery charged up with a crocodile clip linkage when your plugged in go to the pub as often as possible enjoy the craic stop flapping and just do it. Leave the Jenny at home, experience is what clever people cal mistakes, it's fun crack on
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:encouragement:

"Experience is something you get, just after you need it."

"If we learn from our mistakes, then I'm getting a fantastic education."


;)
 
Cantata said:
Teenager we knew became the youngest UK solo circumnavigator a few years back, he certainly didn't have a generator on his Coribee, nor an inboard engine for that matter....
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Not disputing your claim but how do you know he was the youngest circumnavigation ? Who compiles the list ?
 
clyst said:
Not disputing your claim but how do you know he was the youngest circumnavigation ? Who compiles the list ?
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I knew him well, he was going for the record, and I covered it as such in the yachting press. There was no dispute at the time - this was perhaps 5-6-7 years ago, by the way. I doubt there is such a list but at that time there was publicity about several youngsters going for it.
 
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