Do i need a crimping tool?

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nickfabbri

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In my continuing quest to source and fit an electric windlass i need to buy some 16mm cable and attatch the lugs myself. Now my question is; do i need a crimping tool or can i use a heavy duty pair of pliers or an alternative method?
I only need to attach 6 lugs to 3 pieces of wire and it seems a little pointless buying a £20 tool for just one application.

many thanks
 
My experience of last year suggests you will be very lucky to get a decent tool for £20. I bought a secondhand one from Mr Savageseadog of this parish but I was searching for a long time before I was able to buy his. It cost a good bit more than £20 and was well worth it. Having the right tool makes a far better job, although you could bodge it up with a hammer and a punch.

Provided you know the cable lengths and the lugs will feed through to the relevant points I suggest you buy the cable and lugs from a motor factor and ask them to make them up for you. They may well do it FOC in the circumstances, or will charge a nominal sum.
 
If you don't crimp it properly there's a fair chance it will get very hot and may catch fire. This is more likely to happen later rather then sooner. Why not solder the connections instead?
 
if the set your looking at are able to get the job done, then they seem to look ok, but a physical test would set your mind at rest, and if there able to take the pressure without breaking, as most tend to let you down when they break or crack due to inferior metals, but i am sure if vyv says there ok then i'd go for it. he's the man to know.

I have searched and found these, which at a price double yours would also be able to do job.

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/level5/module.jsp?moduleId=cpc/343736.xml
 
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Yes you need the proper crimping tool. The suggestion that a local motor factor (or local auto-electricians) may help is a good one - failing that you might find the right tool in a local hire shop.
 
When I rewired my batteries - with considerably heavier cable - I used a combination of "crimping" the lugs on to the cable with Mole grips, then soldering them using a small butane blowtorch. If you add heat-shrink tubes, it makes a very neat result.
 
pvb said:
When I rewired my batteries - with considerably heavier cable - I used a combination of "crimping" the lugs on to the cable with Mole grips, then soldering them using a small butane blowtorch. If you add heat-shrink tubes, it makes a very neat result.
Click to expand...

Ditto. I used Mole-grips 'cos I only had 6 terminals to make. Checked them by trying to pull the wire out while standing on the terminals...............all stayed put, so I guess they're OK. Lotsa insulating tape very tightly wound on afterwards. These are cables for an inverter and so far, so good. A crimping tool would be easier, but at what price? I've heard quotes of £100 plus........that's a lotta Mole-grips.


Cheap, moi?
 
Soldering works well

Have just fitted a bow thruster with lots of cable ends needed . Get cable then find heavy duty ends that fit . RS Components have most of them . Cable needs to be a reasonable tight fit . If hole for cable is to large consider folding it back on itself . Small Blowtorch from Maplins and plenty of solder . Hold cable about 6" from the end and heat up the end fitting . You will see the solder on the fitting go like mercury . Apply solder to the hole in the fitting and keep going . Its a suprise how much you need . Once you are happy then put heat shrink over the end and warm . Try a couple first . Makes a first rate join . Bow Thruster worked first time so got something right .. Happy soldering . :)
 
I fitted a bow thruster this year and found that the 24 in bolt croppers we carry doubled up as a very succesful crimping tool, I used the lugs between the handles that are supposed to stop you from getting crushed fingers, worked a treat. I doubt the bolt croppers will ever be any good as bolt croppers on stainless rigging (but we have them cos "the code" says so) but as terminal crimpers . . . .
 
pvb said:
When I rewired my batteries - with considerably heavier cable - I used a combination of "crimping" the lugs on to the cable with Mole grips, then soldering them using a small butane blowtorch. If you add heat-shrink tubes, it makes a very neat result.
Click to expand...

Similar worked for me - using a nut splitter to "crimp" the connectors every 90 degrees*, then solder drizzled into pre-drilled holes, then heatshrink.

http://www.merlinequipment.com/ do standard sizes from 8" to 48" and will probably make cables to length - check the catalogue at the bottom of http://www.merlinequipment.com/products/specialist-cable-wire.asp

* the bits of the cable-run that were fixed to the boat.
 
Cantata said:
Yes you need the proper crimping tool. The suggestion that a local motor factor (or local auto-electricians) may help is a good one - failing that you might find the right tool in a local hire shop.
Click to expand...

My local agricultural engineers cheerfully do this sort of thing ... they have rather larger tools than the car mechanics next door!
 
Have them crimped by a welding supplies. They have the cable crimps and the tools. It simply can't be sensible to buy a hydraulic tool just for a very few crimps.
 
This has come up before and I seem to remember there was a very pursuasive argument by some professional boat wirer on here ( Hinckley?) that solder introduces a hard spot and brittleness. Aside from the overheat/melt worry.

The local marine electrickery outlet also advise against using solder and also ( dunno why) against using the shrinkwrap that is adhesive lined- too acidic mebbe?..

Having read Nigel Calder who insists that if and when a windlass approaches stall point the amps will go through the roof and well into the 100s, I am taking it quite seriously on my installation= proper fuses and trips, in the right places next to the batteries , big big cable, isolated from abrasion, no supported lengths and hard bends etc. Long tedious job it became too!

I am now ready (finally) to crimp up the lugs , in situ, and the same nice local electrickery outlet are very kindly prepared to lend me the proper hydraulic crimp tool for a very reasonable fee (and a £100 deposit!). So ask nicely and you never know! Since I have 10 lugs at 70mm and batteries and then 6 at 50mm from the solenoid to the windlass,all in all, I really want them 'right'. I want this thing to work reliably for a long time to come.
 
Blueboatman said:
This has come up before and I seem to remember there was a very pursuasive argument by some professional boat wirer on here ( Hinckley?) that solder introduces a hard spot and brittleness.
Click to expand...

While this is true for fine wires, the hard spot is less of a problem on larger wire, or wire that is not under regular movement. Crimping with the proper tool is still the best way, but on no account rely on pliers, mole-grips etc for anything more than a couple of amps.
 
Yes; you require the specific tool for that size of cable to correctly crimp the cable ends to the cable. I often find a local electrical company will do this for you in exchange for a couple of beers, and as experts they have the correct equipment, correctly set for the job.
 
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