DIY teak deck removal...

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upcountry2

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Having looked at a few modernish [to me] boats over the last couple of months in order to keep swmbo interested, we have narrowed it down to probably getting a Beneteau 393 or 411.circa 1998 to 2003.All of the examples we have looked at have had teak decks of rather dubious quality, most needing serious work or replacement.
I have had a quote for removing
the side decks only, making good and painting with non slip deck paint of £8000 to £10000 on a particular boat we are interested in.
I know i am behind the times when it comes to the cost of things these days, but this seems rather excessive to me, given the nature of the job, i realise it is probably time consuming, but how much time, anyone know?
My question is i have the time, how feasible is it to do it myself, and achieve a cosmetically good result, which wont devalue the boat? I am hands on with most things, so dont anticipate having a problem i cant overcome.
Any tips, best tools to use, method etc from anyone that has done this, would as always be well received.
Or should we walk away and wait for one without teak, there does'nt appear to be many about...

Thanks...
 
Or should we walk away and wait for one without teak, there does'nt appear to be many about...
Click to expand...

The problem really is for the whole deck, even though in the short term the side decks and foredeck are priority. The cost of replacing a teak deck on that size of boat is likely to be up to £25,000 to include removing and refitting every hatch, deck fitting, stanchion base, cleat, shroud plates, genoa track etc, plus the interior headlinings and woodwork to access their fittings. That is the true figure to consider, not the smaller quote you had for just the side decks.

Personally I wouldn't take on that job but if I did it would only be if the price was adjusted downwards by at least the cost of the full job, ie £25,000 or thereabouts.
 
If the teak decks are already shot on boats only 10 years or so old, surely it suggests that either they were rubbish to start with or the level of care of the boats is very questionable. Even the cheap thin teak laminated on ply favoured by Uk builders in the eighties could be expected to last twice that long.
Many boatowners would regard a 2003 boat as nearly new!
If they display the problems you describe what else is wrong? You would need to be paying the £25k Robin refers to below the going rate, even if you are not intending to replace the teak.
 
I think the Bendy's you are looking at have the same type of teak deck as my Bav. Teak veneer glued to a plywood backing then the whole affair is glued to the fiberglass deck.

Mine is deteriorating fast and I will not put money into a re teak coz I'd be looking at north of 40K Euros. (Insane... it's only wood!!!) And "teak" is a "HOT" surface in sunny climes.

So I've informed myself and here are some possibilities:
- All deck fittings are free of the teak on my boat. Hope this is the same for you.
- Begin with a strong Karcher and spray either the forward or aft edge of the panel being removed. This should begin lifting the glue.
- Using some softwood wedges, gently hammer them under the "teak".
- When the wedges are behind the overlying teak, cut out the lifted part using the mid span of the wedge to make certain you dont cut the Fglass. I plan to use a Dremel as the depth of the entire panel is about 6 mm.
- Clean up the messy glue.
- Should be a quick job, I am told.
- After all the "teak" is gone, you will find a clean "virgin" fglass deck complete with the antislip indentations molded in.

GL
- Up to you if you want to paint on an antislip
 
upcountry2 said:
Having looked at a few modernish [to me] boats over the last couple of months in order to keep swmbo interested, we have narrowed it down to probably getting a Beneteau 393 or 411.circa 1998 to 2003.All of the examples we have looked at have had teak decks of rather dubious quality, most needing serious work or replacement.
I have had a quote for removing
the side decks only, making good and painting with non slip deck paint of £8000 to £10000 on a particular boat we are interested in.
Click to expand...

Went through that particular nightmare last year :( Check our blog (link in signature) for pictures and the gory details.

If it's teak on ply - as in our case - I think you well be looking at more. The deck will be a lot thinner and will most likely need some extra layers of GRP to maintain structural integrity.

I know, teak looks nice, but it looks a lot nicer on other people's boat.

My advice: walk away and look elsewhere. I would.

Maybe my sole purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.
 
We bought our last boat in 2000 and at that time had been looking at a 1988 Westerly Oceanlord that had replacement teak decks fitted, so just 12 years life. The replaced decks were solid teak, unlike the original teak on ply, and the overall cost came to around £25,000 we were told. We didn't buy that Westerly and rejected another that needed the same job although the broker said 'just a little TLC' was needed! We bought a Jeanneau Sun Legende 41 instead that had teak in the cockpit only and that was solid teak stuck down not screwed and which was still just about OK when we sold her last December at 22 years old. Replacing that cockpit teak would have been feasible as it was laid as simple straight strips.

Huge difference IMO if the decks are stuck on or are screwed down. At least the stuck on ones don't cause leaks! Why oh why do they make a nice waterproof grp deck and then drill thousands of holes in it just for some perceived cosmetic appeal!
 
Guapa's a little out here IMHO. Bennies and Bavs offered with the teak deck option are underneath the same boat. As Monique says you will find the original diamond pattern deck beneath. Buy the boat you prefer.
 
Monique said:
- Begin with a strong Karcher and spray either the forward or aft edge of the panel being removed. This should begin lifting the glue.
- Using some softwood wedges, gently hammer them under the "teak".
- When the wedges are behind the overlying teak, cut out the lifted part using the mid span of the wedge to make certain you dont cut the Fglass. I plan to use a Dremel as the depth of the entire panel is about 6 mm.
- Clean up the messy glue.
- Should be a quick job, I am told.
- After all the "teak" is gone, you will find a clean "virgin" fglass deck complete with the antislip indentations molded in.
Click to expand...

Ho Ho Ho!

Took me about eight weekends on a 28 footer, fore, aft, side decks and cockpit.
 
I would be delighted for you if at some point you have no recourse to a grinder to remove the deck and bonding agent.. But when the grinder does come out...At that point part of the moulded antiskid is damaged, some of the gelcoat is lifting, scored or chipped, there may even be minor blisters in fact where water has lain..So maybe that initial yard quote is based on realistic experience? Sorry.

If you don't mind lotsa grinding, filling, fairing and then a proper two pot spray job, and you do actually have the skills and time ( and weather and premises), then yes you can save a bundle and know that the boat will be as good as -better even- than when built.

But surely it makes sense to do that work to the best 'quality' bargain boat that you can find, to preserve your investment ?
 
Your quote is on the low side as the "teak" will be very firmly attached and will need to be ground off or peeled off if it is really bad. The one consolation is that this method of attachment does not use screws into the GRP/foam core deck, so the substrate will be intact, although it may need remedial work before it can be re-finished. If it is teak veneer strips rather than teak on ply, as in the cockpit of my Bavaria it can also potentially be patched by removing worn or damaged strips.

I did not have complete teak decks on my boat (in 2001) because of concerns about life, but in fact the cockpit has stood up very well, with only minor patching of seams required. However, this is not the experience of many boats of similar age - and most took the full teak option.
 
Tranona said:
I did not have complete teak decks on my boat (in 2001) because of concerns about life, but in fact the cockpit has stood up very well, with only minor patching of seams required. However, this is not the experience of many boats of similar age - and most took the full teak option.
Click to expand...

Before I bought Jumblie I looked at another Victoria 26 in Scotland. Quite nice, but a bit neglected ... and a locker full of dirty brown water under the teak decking. The phrase "run, don't walk" came to mind. She's sold since.
 
Well it seems most views are not to take this on, boat in question will be negotiated to a level to make this financially viable, but having read your comments, do i really want the hastle?
I am only considering doing this because there seems to be a lack of examples on the market at this time, to choose from[owners version UK]
Given that Beneteau built a good many of these, i find that thought provoking to say the least.
There will be many more available in the Med, but i dont want to go down that path if i can help it, then again i would rather not be without a boat for too much longer,[sold the last one virtually overnight, took me completly by surprise] so i was'nt expecting to be boatless quite so soon.
Thanks for all your replies, i'm still not sure what to do...
Regards...
 
Should you find a boat you wish to look at in Majorca.... I'll help with surveyors etc. (Lots of free time):D

GL with your search
 
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