DIY talurit eye splices

Rum Run

Rum Run

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I'm looking to replace my guard wires this year which means 8 wires with eyes at both ends. I wondered about buying one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/16-T...rimping-Tool-Kit-10-300mm-12-Die/400764158420
and crimping my own. Has anyone used this type of kit to close Talurit sleeves and was it successful?

I know about the long plier-type ones, which are on eBay and also the ones from S3i which they say not to use for anything critical, also those poxy little steel bars that need hammering to make them work.
My wires will be 5mm 7x19 stainless by the way.

Thanks in advance
 
I have a similar (not quite identical) tool for crimping lugs on battery cables etc. I have used it to crimp talurit-type sleeves on 1x19 stainless, and it seemed to mostly work, but the sleeve didn't seem to be quite as tight as a properly made one and so I'd be wary of using it for anything critical.

I think the crimper you list is a bit bigger than mine (same style hydraulic unit but doesn't go up to anything like 300mm2) so maybe it will work better.

Pete
 
Rum Run said:
I'm looking to replace my guard wires this year which means 8 wires with eyes at both ends. I wondered about buying one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/16-T...rimping-Tool-Kit-10-300mm-12-Die/400764158420
and crimping my own. Has anyone used this type of kit to close Talurit sleeves and was it successful?

I know about the long plier-type ones, which are on eBay and also the ones from S3i which they say not to use for anything critical, also those poxy little steel bars that need hammering to make them work.
My wires will be 5mm 7x19 stainless by the way.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

I have one off these Hydraulic Crimpers which I purchased for my engine starter cable rewire job and it was excellent for that.

These tools are designed for crimping cables lugs to a specific size, and the dyes limit this crimp to a certain size with the wire core and crimp internal being the deciding factor in the compression and holding power achieved.

However I can see problems using it for Guard rail wires?
With a Talurit splice these are also bound by the same constraints but the holding power is also achieved by the copper of the crimp impregnating the wire to a certain extent? This would be hit and miss with this tool and picking the correct dye could be between this tools range?
I personal would not be happy not knowing if something as important as a Guard rail wire that might save me going over the side was crimped sufficiently enough to set standards, as using the proper tool would achieve.
I replaced my wires last winter and was glad to pay for the correct 1/19 crimps to be fitted for a little extra cost, it was worth the piece of mind it gave me.

All down to choices in the end, and as long as you are happy with your choice go for it.
 
I can't comment on that tool, but having once taken a similar approach I would just point out that if someone comes along and bends your stanchion the eye won't go through the hole as a swaged fitting would. Don't ask me how I know :(. But I guess you've thought about that and are happy to take the risk.
 
Rum Run said:
I'm looking to replace my guard wires this year which means 8 wires with eyes at both ends. I wondered about buying one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/16-T...rimping-Tool-Kit-10-300mm-12-Die/400764158420
and crimping my own. Has anyone used this type of kit to close Talurit sleeves and was it successful?

I know about the long plier-type ones, which are on eBay and also the ones from S3i which they say not to use for anything critical, also those poxy little steel bars that need hammering to make them work.
My wires will be 5mm 7x19 stainless by the way.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
I've used these before for terminating 7 x 19 steel wire rope in galv. http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hydraulic-crimpers/4596139/

The problem is that the dies are for electrical cable and not the right size for EN 13411-3 ferrules, they're a tiny bit too big. (DIN ferrules can be got here.. http://www.flints.co.uk/acatalog/DIN_Copper_Ferrules.html . Copper for stainless).

Having said that, under testing (from memory) a single ferrule would start slipping around 650Kg in 4mm 7 x 19 galv, add a second ferrule and it was over a tonne, beyond min breaking load of the wire. A second ferrule is handy to tidy up the end as well, so the cut end of the rope is just hidden inside the ferrule and not trying to get under your fingernails :)


Hope this helps.


PS. Just had another look at the ebay link, it looks like all the dies are hex, not great.
 
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Rum Run said:
I'm looking to replace my guard wires this year which means 8 wires with eyes at both ends. I wondered about buying one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/16-T...rimping-Tool-Kit-10-300mm-12-Die/400764158420
and crimping my own. Has anyone used this type of kit to close Talurit sleeves and was it successful?

I know about the long plier-type ones, which are on eBay and also the ones from S3i which they say not to use for anything critical, also those poxy little steel bars that need hammering to make them work.
My wires will be 5mm 7x19 stainless by the way.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

If you want to send me a couple of pieces of wire and suitable crimps,I'll crimp them and return to you to see if they are suitable. Might save you the price of the tool if you don't think its suitable?

Philip
 
Your local winch-launching gliding club probably has a hydraulic press for crimping broken winch cables back together. They may let you use it, for a modest donation to club funds.
 
I've used the Ormiston tools, which are two dies you bolt together, for 4mm and smaller wires. Including some that have been tested to a fair %age of design load.
They seem to have got expensive though?
The parts are available from dinghy chandlers.
 
Rum Run said:
I'm looking to replace my guard wires this year which means 8 wires with eyes at both ends. I wondered about buying one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/16-T...rimping-Tool-Kit-10-300mm-12-Die/400764158420
and crimping my own. Has anyone used this type of kit to close Talurit sleeves and was it successful?

I know about the long plier-type ones, which are on eBay and also the ones from S3i which they say not to use for anything critical, also those poxy little steel bars that need hammering to make them work.
My wires will be 5mm 7x19 stainless by the way.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
The result will be strong but not good to look at.#
why not use norseman or staylock for a really nice finish
 
If OP does go for the sleeve crimped onto the wire. ie wire around a thimble and back on itself witha sleeve to take 2 wires. Then if he has any doubts about the strength of the crimp he can always have 2 sleeves crimped for extra security. This should remove any concern. good luck olewill
 
Standard size wire for guard wires is 4mm 1 x 19, most are fitted with a swage fork and swage stud that has a removable eye to allow the wires to pass through the stanchions, using a talurit on both ends will be ok but you can never take them off without cutting them! Using a Sta Lok on one end is expensive! Not seen the eBay press before so do not know if any good.
 
sarabande said:
to support Cliff (not that he needs it !) here's a page from Klauke, giving some techy info on swaging protocols and dies.

Though the doc is for electrical purposes, the wire types are those used in guard lines.

http://www.klauke.com/en/electrical...ch-method-is-correct-crimp-types-at-a-glance/
Click to expand...
That's all about copper wires. Principles may be similar, but the pull test for an electrical crimp is a fraction of that for a talurit.
A talurit is reliant on getting enough pressure to flow the copper or ali ferrule around the strands.
No doubt that can be done with a hex die, but it involves a lot of force.
Using the Ormiston tool, on 4mm, it takes some fairly serious tightending of the M8 bolts, and only deals with a small section of the ferrule at a time.
The ferrule is seriously squeezed into the strands of the wire.
Also, the wires remain straight, while in a copper electrical wire it's OK to kink the conductors within limits.
If you saw one in half, it's like a solid piece of metal.
That means there is not much chance of corrosion for one thing.
A rigger or chandler will do the job for you for a few quid, why do an amateur bodge on safety gear unless you can be sure it's a good job?

I'd suggest making a test piece and testing it under serious load, at least the swl of the wire. But FFS take care with that, breaking wires can be dangerous.
If in doubt, take the stanchions to the rigger and thread the wires before swaging.
 
lw395 said:
That's all about copper wires. Principles may be similar, but the pull test for an electrical crimp is a fraction of that for a talurit.
A talurit is reliant on getting enough pressure to flow the copper or ali ferrule around the strands.
No doubt that can be done with a hex die, but it involves a lot of force.
Using the Ormiston tool, on 4mm, it takes some fairly serious tightending of the M8 bolts, and only deals with a small section of the ferrule at a time.
The ferrule is seriously squeezed into the strands of the wire.
Also, the wires remain straight, while in a copper electrical wire it's OK to kink the conductors within limits.
If you saw one in half, it's like a solid piece of metal.
That means there is not much chance of corrosion for one thing.
A rigger or chandler will do the job for you for a few quid, why do an amateur bodge on safety gear unless you can be sure it's a good job?

I'd suggest making a test piece and testing it under serious load, at least the swl of the wire. But FFS take care with that, breaking wires can be dangerous.
If in doubt, take the stanchions to the rigger and thread the wires before swaging.
Click to expand...

If you do want to do a load test on the wire and swage. I have seen set ups for testing aircraft control wires. The bulk of the wire is wrapped around a drum strongly mounted like .5 metre in diameter. Paint is applied to the swage to wire interface on the wire side and allowed to dry. A load of 80% of SWL of the wire is applied. The dried paint is examined closely for cracks which would indicate movement of the wire in the sleeve. Yes beware of wire parting as we saw 2 sea men die this week in the Med on a tug when the tow wire parted. (and lashed out) good luck olewill
 
cliff said:
Care to expand on that statement? -

What is wrong with HEX dies? What would you recommend (and why)
Click to expand...
I knew I'd get pulled upon that! :) and not having tested the HEX dies I can't say anything for sure.

They're not designed to crimp din DIN EN13411-3 ferrules. The kaulke round dies in 4mm I know about as I've load tested those terminations before, but these HEX dies I don't know about.
And without load testing with a calibrated load cell neither does anyone else, it's just the wrong tool for the job. Your really need something with dies to suit the steel wire rope ferrules, not electrical ferrules.
Unfortunately expensive, http://www.flints.co.uk/acatalog/Marine_Hydraulic_Hand_Crimper.html

The hand tongs (sailors tongs) work but it's harder to get a nice looking crimp with them. Also I've never crimped an eye on 1 x 19, must be a fiddle with such stiff rope, 6 X 19 or 7 X 19 is fine.

None of which helps the OP, sorry, but if you want to do the job properly...
 
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