DIY talurit eye splices

[cliff]

I knew I'd get pulled upon that! and not having tested the HEX dies I can't say anything for sure.

They're not designed to crimp din DIN EN13411-3 ferrules. The kaulke round dies in 4mm I know about as I've load tested those terminations before, but these HEX dies I don't know about.
And without load testing with a calibrated load cell neither does anyone else, it's just the wrong tool for the job. Your really need something with dies to suit the steel wire rope ferrules, not electrical ferrules.
Unfortunately expensive, http://www.flints.co.uk/acatalog/Marine_Hydraulic_Hand_Crimper.html

The hand tongs (sailors tongs) work but it's harder to get a nice looking crimp with them. Also I've never crimped an eye on 1 x 19, must be a fiddle with such stiff rope, 6 X 19 or 7 X 19 is fine.

None of which helps the OP, sorry, but if you want to do the job properly...

Your link is to a 7 ton tool - not so much - 16 ton available on fleabay at 1/12th the price never mind dies for the other one at £120 a piece.
I do not see where it says "They're not designed to crimp DIN EN13411-3 ferrules" (nor do I see where it says they are). You say you know about 4mm Kaulke round dies but you do not know about the subject HEX dies so HTF can you say "it's just the wrong tool for the job" - personal unsubstantiated opinion?

The biggest problem (apart form unsubstantiated, personal opinions) is sourcing the correct size copper or copper alloy ferrules to match the wire Ø and die size.

As for my personal opinion? - I would go for getting a rigger to crimp a loop in one end (attached to the pulpit) and swage on a threaded pin to the other to allow threading of the wire through the stantion holes before fitting either a pelican hook or simple ring to be tied onto the pushpit.

 

[lw395]

...

The biggest problem (apart form unsubstantiated, personal opinions)[/COLOR] is sourcing the correct size copper or copper alloy ferrules to match the wire Ø and die size.
[/FONT]
As for my personal opinion? - I would go for getting a rigger to crimp a loop in one end (attached to the pulpit) and swage on a threaded pin to the other to allow threading of the wire through the stantion holes before fitting either a pelican hook or simple ring to be tied onto the pushpit.[/SIZE]

The ferrules are available from loads of chandlers.
They are actually not that sensitive to die size, as the copper flows an awful lot under the pressure.
Personally, I get most of my wires made by a local chandler/rigger, as my dinghy is rigged with dyform and rolled swages.
The Ormiston tool looks to be about £70 now, which seems a lot.
4mm 1x19 won't be easy to work with, especially without a decent bench, vice, etc etc.

I've seen enough apprentice-made electrical crimps go bad to make me careful.
Take it to the man!

 

[GHA]

You say you know about 4mm Kaulke round dies but you do not know about the subject HEX dies so HTF can you say "it's just the wrong tool for the job" - personal unsubstantiated opinion?

The biggest problem (apart form unsubstantiated, personal opinions) is sourcing the correct size copper or copper alloy ferrules to match the wire Ø and die size.

The dims of the dies are wrong for steel wire rope ferrules- check the spec sheet for EN13411-3, and it would have the din no. stamped on the dies. The dies are for electrical wire ferrules, NOT steel wire rope. Plus the 4mm kaulke dies were a little wrong, I could get round it by fitting 2 ferrules and proof loading the rope to a low SWL then issuing a test cert. It was the only machine available at the time.

Ferrules are easy to source, I gave a link already. http://www.flints.co.uk/acatalog/DIN_Copper_Ferrules.html

Dies size matches the DIN spec size for the ferrules, not the other way round.

and it's not just a personal opinion, I started industrial rigging in 1984. Have you even heard of loler?

 

[GHA]

They are actually not that sensitive to die size, as the copper flows an awful lot under the pressure.

Take it to the man!

Might be more than you think, a single ferrule should be close to MBL of the rope, with slightly oversized dies in destruction testing failure tension was substantially reduced.
Admittedly that was ali ferrules and galv rope but if you can't load test it to be sure and you're not using the right dies then you won't know for sure.

Load testing assists deep sleep

Here's a 8mm home made softshackle with nearly 2.5 tonnes on it..

 

[Len Ingalls]

http://www.suncorstainless.com/

Swage fittings.

 

[Len Ingalls]

http://www.suncorstainless.com/quick-attachtrade-lifeline-kit-w-gate-closed-body

 

[cliff]

Take it to the man!

For all that is involved +1 - 4 crimps and 4 swages - not going to break the boat bank.

 

[cliff]

I started industrial rigging in 1984. Have you even heard of loler?

Ah, the Lifting Operations and Lifting Equipment Regulations 1998 supporting and expanding on the general requirements of PUWER - the Provision and Use of Work Equipment Regulations 1998 - keep practicing

 

[Rum Run]

Just to round this off, and thanks for all the info by the way everyone, I took it to the man. The man being Craig Bond of Brightlingsea, who made new standing rigging for me a couple of years ago and who gave some input earlier in the thread.
Much as I like to collect tools for the job, by the time I added up the cost of the parts and the risk of screwing it up it made sense to get an expert to do it.
I bought pelican hooks direct from Talamex at a good price, but although the product is good, their customer service sucks ass as the Cousins would say

 

[LadyInBed]

Standard size wire for guard wires is 4mm 1 x 19, most are fitted with a swage fork and swage stud that has a removable eye to allow the wires to pass through the stanchions, using a talurit on both ends will be ok but you can never take them off without cutting them! Using a Sta Lok on one end is expensive! Not seen the eBay press before so do not know if any good.

I've just replaced my top wires with 5mm 1x19 and did it in similar fashion.
Each wire was approximately 8.25m so bought 17m with swaged fork turnbuckle on each end, cut the wires to length and put Sta-Loc forks on the cut ends.
The bit of wire left will be used for turnbuckle mousing