oakleyb
Member
Has anyone had success when replacing their own standing rigging, there seems to be companies out there that will use your current rigging to generate replacement? Or should i just contract rigger to complete work.
DIY Standing rigging
- Thread starter oakleyb
- Start date
savageseadog
Well-known member
It's easy, especially if you have the existing (correct) stuff. But if you've got all the correct lengths it's probably not worth doing it yourself as you will have to use swageless terminals which are more expensive. Suggest you measure eveything up and get some quotes off riggers for swaged terminals and save money by putting it on yourself.
najsmith
Member
Yachting monthly published an article some months back.
If you can find a yard that has the compression tools you can do it all yourself.
I'm tempted to try this out next time as you can save a fortune & right now, saving fortunes the only way we'll manage to stay on the water.
If you can find a yard that has the compression tools you can do it all yourself.
I'm tempted to try this out next time as you can save a fortune & right now, saving fortunes the only way we'll manage to stay on the water.
Tranona
Well-known member
It is possible to do it yourself with screw on terminals such as Sta Lok or Norseman, but swaged terminals require the machine and a good operator.
Personally this is one job I would leave to the professionals. Best to have the rigger inspect the mast and rigging, make whatever is required and refit it. Get all the other mast fittings checked as well.
Plenty of riggers in the Solent who can do the job. Google Yacht Rigging Services or www.boatingbusiness.com and search rigging in their marine directory.
Personally this is one job I would leave to the professionals. Best to have the rigger inspect the mast and rigging, make whatever is required and refit it. Get all the other mast fittings checked as well.
Plenty of riggers in the Solent who can do the job. Google Yacht Rigging Services or www.boatingbusiness.com and search rigging in their marine directory.
davidbains
New member
I did mine. Had generous lengths cut and swaged terminals fitted on the upper end only.
Then cut accurately to length while hanging and fitted compression terminals at the bottom ends.
Then cut accurately to length while hanging and fitted compression terminals at the bottom ends.
seumask
Well-known member
I took our standing rigging into a chandler that does that sort of thing "Emsworth Habour chandlery" and got the forestay and two mainstays relplicated for £100 last year on our 25ft boat in 5mm, keeping the same turn buckles. I thought that was fairly reasonable.
rob2
Active member
Like savageseadog says, unless you have the terminations sorted, it's cheaper to go to a supplier. Get the mast down and strip off all the old rigging, bundle it up and take it to the rigger. when he has made the new rigging, fit it yourself.
Of course, if it is a smaller boat, dinghy or dayboat you may be able to use talurit splices and maybe even borrow the swaging tool (up to 4mm wire) from your club or another member. If the old rigging was made with swageless fittings, you can re-use Sta-Lok or Norseman Gibbs (Navtek) terminals by replacing the internal "wedge". If the ends are possible , then do a Goggle search for the wire you use, e.g. "5mm 1x19 stainless wire rope". That may find you a really cheap supply of the raw material!
For myself I have a 28ft boat with 6mm rigging, swaged ends. After investigating all possibilities, it proved cheapest to take the old stuff around the corner to Spencer Rigging in Southampton as a pattern and simply collect the finished replacements.
Good luck,
Rob.
Of course, if it is a smaller boat, dinghy or dayboat you may be able to use talurit splices and maybe even borrow the swaging tool (up to 4mm wire) from your club or another member. If the old rigging was made with swageless fittings, you can re-use Sta-Lok or Norseman Gibbs (Navtek) terminals by replacing the internal "wedge". If the ends are possible , then do a Goggle search for the wire you use, e.g. "5mm 1x19 stainless wire rope". That may find you a really cheap supply of the raw material!
For myself I have a 28ft boat with 6mm rigging, swaged ends. After investigating all possibilities, it proved cheapest to take the old stuff around the corner to Spencer Rigging in Southampton as a pattern and simply collect the finished replacements.
Good luck,
Rob.
Gordonmc
Active member
There are specialists who will make up rigging to order, either swaged both ends or swaged eye-and-thimble on one end only leaving a free end to cut to length for you to add a swageless terminal.
If you can get access to a swage press it is fairly straightforward to make up your own stays... so long as you adopt the adage of measure thrice, cut once. I managed to "borrow" the local chandler's press and did all of my 6mm standing rigging in an afternoon using the old stuff as patterns. With ten minutes instruction and a couple of practice tries it went as planned and the rigging actually fitted for length when the mast was stepped.
If you can get access to a swage press it is fairly straightforward to make up your own stays... so long as you adopt the adage of measure thrice, cut once. I managed to "borrow" the local chandler's press and did all of my 6mm standing rigging in an afternoon using the old stuff as patterns. With ten minutes instruction and a couple of practice tries it went as planned and the rigging actually fitted for length when the mast was stepped.
savageseadog
Well-known member
[ QUOTE ]
I did mine. Had generous lengths cut and swaged terminals fitted on the upper end only.
Then cut accurately to length while hanging and fitted compression terminals at the bottom ends.
[/ QUOTE ] But the whole point is saving money, the swageless terminals are excellent but costly and not necessary if you have the right lengths and terminations already. Saving money comes from removing the need for a rigger to attend your boat and becoming a captive market. You can send the basic spec round as many suppliers as you like at virtually zero cost and get the best deal. I wouldn't swage myself as it's a skilled job and there are insurance and liability issues.
I did mine. Had generous lengths cut and swaged terminals fitted on the upper end only.
Then cut accurately to length while hanging and fitted compression terminals at the bottom ends.
[/ QUOTE ] But the whole point is saving money, the swageless terminals are excellent but costly and not necessary if you have the right lengths and terminations already. Saving money comes from removing the need for a rigger to attend your boat and becoming a captive market. You can send the basic spec round as many suppliers as you like at virtually zero cost and get the best deal. I wouldn't swage myself as it's a skilled job and there are insurance and liability issues.
RestlessL
Member
Last winter I took my standing rigging to SeaTeach (no connection) at Emsworth, and they supplied me with new. No problems fitting, or using the new rig.
tobble
New member
There are always loads of sta-lock fittings at Beuleigh Jumble, for a lot less £ than new - I'm planning on using this approach next year... only 'but' is the insurance, has anyone got experiences of insurers' reaction to DIY rigging? I thought they were quite fussy about it.
Nigel_Ward
Member
I think there are plenty of DIY jobs that a boat owner can do to save money, but rigging wires are not one of them!
You can get a basic price on the Jimmy Green web site for ready made up stuff against which you can compare your DIY estimate. I would also change all the bottlescrews, pins etc. at the same time.
http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/custom_chandlery_products/standing_rigging_-_wire.htm
When I have had wires made up in the past I always keep the receipt to prove to my insurance when they were changed if it ever got to the point of a claim.
You can get a basic price on the Jimmy Green web site for ready made up stuff against which you can compare your DIY estimate. I would also change all the bottlescrews, pins etc. at the same time.
http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/custom_chandlery_products/standing_rigging_-_wire.htm
When I have had wires made up in the past I always keep the receipt to prove to my insurance when they were changed if it ever got to the point of a claim.
oldsaltoz
New member
Just make sure you are still able to make a claim with your insurer before you do anything else.
Avagoodweekend......
Avagoodweekend......
chewi
Active member
My insurer was well aware I was rerigging using Staloks,it was never an issue and the weather I've been in since I know they're good.
Is there a clause on the insurance that says how the rigging has to be terminated? Can anyone find evidence of staloks etc being unreliable?
Just follow the instructions.
Is there a clause on the insurance that says how the rigging has to be terminated? Can anyone find evidence of staloks etc being unreliable?
Just follow the instructions.
dovekie
Active member
Another vote for the DIY camp. We did ours (38 foot sloop, 8.5 tons), when fitting a new mast. Both jobs (the mast and the riggging) were absolutely fine, and you have certainty that it has been done carefully. But it will take time, and I'm sure the advice about checking with your insurance is wise.
mikejames
New member
I decided to fit internal rigging on my GK24 to control a deck bulge and hull dimple. I went and had to buy about 6 bottlescrews from the Bursledon Barge before I got a pair that were not actually stretched to the point that the threads were asymmetrical, and which jammed under tension.
Conclusion : some people who destroy rigs sell their bottlescrews and fittings to recoup the cost ....
I used the Elephant Boatyard for a mast remove, store, replace using myself as a rigger, and the boatyard owner pulling ropes on his derrick, and the adjacent Aladdins Cave riggers for the wire and fittings. The final cost at the time (10 years ago, got to do it all again) was about 50% of employing a professional rigging firm to do it all. And the surveyor was happy.
Conclusion : some people who destroy rigs sell their bottlescrews and fittings to recoup the cost ....
I used the Elephant Boatyard for a mast remove, store, replace using myself as a rigger, and the boatyard owner pulling ropes on his derrick, and the adjacent Aladdins Cave riggers for the wire and fittings. The final cost at the time (10 years ago, got to do it all again) was about 50% of employing a professional rigging firm to do it all. And the surveyor was happy.
meldrum
New member
You dont even have to go to a yacht rigging firm,I went to a commercial wire and rope firm a few years ago and they made up new lengths to match the old. Not only was it cheaper the quality was virtually guaranteed, as all of the other swaging they did was for commercial use and had to be test certificated to comply with hse regs.
tangomoon
New member
We sent our existing shrouds to these people
http://www.s3i.co.uk/rope.php
and they sent back new and old within the week. They supply what ever you want and were almost half the price of a rigging company.
James was the chap to speak to then.
http://www.s3i.co.uk/rope.php
and they sent back new and old within the week. They supply what ever you want and were almost half the price of a rigging company.
James was the chap to speak to then.
Bodach na mara
Well-known member
I have rerigged two boats, one in 7X7 galvanized using splices and one in 1X19 stainless using Staylock or Norseman terminals (I can't remember which.) Both jobs saved a lot of cash and the swageless job will be cheaper next time round as I can re-use the terminals with new cones. And to those who doubt the effectiveness iof swageless terminals, I would direct them to look at the forestays of virtually all boats with roller genoas, where they will find swageless terminals.
I do regret the passing of galvanized wire as a material for rigging. Dressed with a linseed oil and parafin solution every year, it did not rust and lasted for ever (well until the boat reached the end of its useful life.) If untreated, it rusted and showed that it needed replaced, unlike stainless, which can fail without prior visible warning
I do regret the passing of galvanized wire as a material for rigging. Dressed with a linseed oil and parafin solution every year, it did not rust and lasted for ever (well until the boat reached the end of its useful life.) If untreated, it rusted and showed that it needed replaced, unlike stainless, which can fail without prior visible warning
DownWest
Well-known member
Don´t forget to measure and photograph your turnbuckles before removal so the swager can adjust the lengths if necessary.
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