DIY rigging

[Gordonmc]

Thanks for replies to the "SS v galv" thread earlier.

I have decided to replace the standing rigging with galvanised 7/7 strand, galvanise the existing mild steel chainplates and refit with bronze bolts.
Through a contact in the fishing industry I can get as much of the wire as I need buckshee. How feasible is it to re-rig the boat myself?

I can source ferrules, but should I have the eyes made by a professional rigger... or can I hire/borrow/buy a squisher...

Any advice welcome.

 

[Plum]

Hi. 7X7 is reasonably easy to hand splice. Try to find the May/June 2002 edition of Watercraft magazine and buy the "Rigging Handbook" by Brion Toss. The only disadvantage of splicing yourself is that you need plenty of time. A great winter project that can be done at home!

 

[Strathglass]

Up to 6mm uses fairly low cost tools and it is quite simple. Above that you are talking about a big capital invertment for tooling.
Iain

 

[Peterduck]

I agree with Plum. I did the rigging for my 36ft gaff ketch using 3/8" 7x7 galvanised wire rope, and learned to hand splice the wire. In retrospect, I think that the 3/8" is a bit heavy, and 5/16" would have been quite strong enough. I was dismasted last summer in a violent squall, and the shrouds held just fine, but the mast broke where a previous owner had drilled a hole through it. I have strong reservation about swages, especially when used in conjunction with stainless steel wire rope. Shroud failures are almost invariably located where the rope exits from the swage, and flexing is concentrated. A hand splice has no such concentrations, and as it tapers off, the condtions change gradually. I studied Brion Toss' handbook, but also had some brief tuition from a master rigger to explain some of the things that Toss' book doesn't. I had to make up a rigging vice to hold the wire tightly around the thimble. It isn't pretty, but it is effective, which is what matters. I would recommend to do about a dozen practice splices before you get into the real ones which will hold your mast up. You do get better with a little practice. When I started doing my "real" ones, I started with the mizzen shrouds, which are strained the least, and worked my way up to the forestay. By the time I got there, my splices had improved noticeably. For the large soft eyes which go around the mast above the hounds bolsters, I used the Flemish eye-splice, which Toss calls a "Molly Hogan". All splices were served, of course, as the process of splicing tends to knock the galvanising around a bit. It is not really necessary to serve around the thimble, just the splice. Good luck!
Peter

 

[Bodach na mara]

Hand splicing is relatively easy on small diameter wire but gets harder as the size goes up. I did it for my old converted six-metre, but for the jumpers and diamonds in 1/8 inch I took 20 minutes per splice for the main wires in 1/4 inch diameter I took 40 minutes. I did not practise first, just got tore in and the rigging lasted for the next twelve years until a later owner wrecked the boat.

Ken Johnson

 

[rbrooks]

I am very intrested in D.I.Y rigging, Is it possible to test any rigging I make before put it on the boat, just to ensure their are no mistakes?
I have stainless solid wire rigging I would like to use the same again, any suggestions?

Rog

 

[Plum]

I suggest you get a copy of the May/June 2002 edition of the Uk magazine Watercraft for some tips on DIY splicing of standing rigging.

 

[yoda]

Glideing clubs that launch using a ground winch always have the necessary tools for splicing wire because the tow wires break quite often. Make up a short strop and test you splicing skills with a carefully controlled static load test to see how good you are. Water is a great medium for tests like this as you know 1 litre is 1 Kg.

Yoda