Diy interior woodwork fixtures

Tranona said:
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All the doors in my 13 year old Bavaria are veneered MDF type panels in a solid wood frame and are indistinguishable from ply - and no sign of "turning to mush" - but then the boat does not leak!

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My copy of Reeds lives on top of the chart table most of the time and is printed on ordinary paper - it would turn to pulp a lot sooner than a plate rack (and cost a lot more!)
 
Tranona said:
There is no reason why MDF type materials cannot be used for non structural items like doors and non structural bulkheads. Like ply they are composites of wood fibres and resins and no reason why they should turn to mush.
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I haven't commented on MDF; it was the advice to use B&Q chipboard that I was objecting to. That definitely does go soggy when wet; there's a collapsed heap of it outside my shed door I really ought to shovel up and dispose of.

Pete
 
prv said:
I haven't commented on MDF; it was the advice to use B&Q chipboard that I was objecting to. That definitely does go soggy when wet; there's a collapsed heap of it outside my shed door I really ought to shovel up and dispose of.

Pete
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You were responding to maby's comment about the use of MDF in new boats and your response was that it only needed to hold together long enough for the original owner not to complain.

Just observing that it lats very well in practice.

Agree with you about low grade chipboard, but not about the durability of correct grade of MDF in this application.
 
Tranona said:
You were responding to maby's comment about the use of MDF in new boats and your response was that it only needed to hold together long enough for the original owner not to complain.
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He didn't just say MDF, though, he said MDF and chipboard. Mostly though, my reply was a joke, hence the smiley. I did say that I hoped they were using a moisture resistant grade, and I assume that's adequate for the design life.

Pete
 
I think we are missing the point argueing about what new yachts have.
I'm sure this boaty MDF is easy to mass produce and is cheap and possibly even durable, but back to the OP I just can't see what advantage it has over a good sheet of exterior ply? I'm thinking K.I.S.S here. I wouldn't even know where to buy this marine MDF but I bet its dearer and more hassle than going to your local builders yard.

I fitted a work surface for my mum that was made largely of MDF and I broke most of my saw blades, swore a lot, cut my hands, produced mountains of yukky dust, did I mention swore a lot? Im sure the CNC in the bavaria factory is quite happy working with it though.

dont do it dude! get some plywood in there!
 
Shirly WBP (water boil proof) ply from Wicks or the likes is the middle ground here. Not too expensive, can be made to look like teak with stain and varnish. Won't absorb water like MDF will over time.
 
Get from your local library,boat interior construction isbn0-7136-6357-x and boat joinery and cabinetmaking isbn0-07-005307-3,have a read and then have a go
Regards
Bacus
 
Do not work with MDF unless you have dust extraction and a respirated mask is my advice. I have both and still refuse to machine it. (Iroko, Western Red Cedar are my other hates.)
 
Tranona said:
There is no reason why MDF type materials cannot be used for non structural items like doors and non structural bulkheads. Like ply they are composites of wood fibres and resins and no reason why they should turn to mush.
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Given the choice, I would go for ply. Isn't it lighter and stronger size for size? Plus, suitably stained, looks good.
Edging is more difficult, wood iron on edging strip is harder to find and expensive, I like using square profile solid wood.
 
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