DIY ammeter - dead cool

  • Thread starter Thread starter GHA
  • Start date Start date
Having another look at this, well all the monitoring setup really. Trouble is knowing nothing about PCB design is making placing the order for the boards a bit uncertain.... Maybe it's wrong! Or maybe not, all the wires seem to be going to the right places, made the gdn, 5v & 12v tracks 10mil with same clearance. If that actually does much..

Look alright? What have I done wrong?

AUK7RZo.png


QdpRDAK.png


1SQKBt0.png


https://easyeda.com/paddyb/SigK_Send
 
Not posted the pictures? Cannot see the images (logged in)

Images should be there?

Boards should be here on monday, discount on the delivery for first order so DHL and the 10 boards for £6.13... if the Portuguese customs let it through anyway. Could be a handy way to make a nmea data busbar or similar.
 
I am far from an expert.

Some ideas;

1. Bigger tracks and clearances - just to be safe
2. Have you considered a GND pour on both sides? Reduces the number of track as the GND are absorbed.
3. You may find parts do not fit when the boards arrive because the templates are wrong for the parts you have
4. Check the board with a multimeter on continuity - ie that expected Pins connect to their pairs/others, and not shorted with others
5. Did / can you run any Design Rules to Check your board (sometimes called a DRC check)?
6. Are all the airwires connected (Electrical Rule Check)?

Have you made the boards with JPLCB? There sister parts company is good, cheap and combines P&P.
 
Bit late to be giving advice about board layout.
Fatter tracks, ground pours, DRC's all good stuff.
Plus some fixing holes are always a good idea.

I'd be interested t know who did the boards at that price, now I've kind of retired I am losing access to the place I used.
 
I am far from an expert.

Some ideas;

1. Bigger tracks and clearances - just to be safe
2. Have you considered a GND pour on both sides? Reduces the number of track as the GND are absorbed.
3. You may find parts do not fit when the boards arrive because the templates are wrong for the parts you have
4. Check the board with a multimeter on continuity - ie that expected Pins connect to their pairs/others, and not shorted with others
5. Did / can you run any Design Rules to Check your board (sometimes called a DRC check)?
6. Are all the airwires connected (Electrical Rule Check)?

Have you made the boards with JPLCB? There sister parts company is good, cheap and combines P&P.

Missed all that, order placed :) Just used most easyeda defaults with slightly fatter ground tracks, though it's nearly all i2c digital comms so hopefully will be OK. Easyeda has GRC check and I think JLCPCB do a very quick once over as well. Boards left hong kong so hopefully will get to have a play on monday. The £6.13 was discounted delivery for the first order though for others I'll be less impatient and go chinapost. V2 already on the way for bits left out on these ones, a few transistors to drop NMEA data down to 3.3v would be handy. And maybe little resister networks to drop down the voltages going into the ADS1115's they don't like it over 5v.

Hopefully anyone can get at it and save for yourselves, should anyone actually be interested. :)
https://easyeda.com/paddyb/SigK_Send
https://jlcpcb.com/

Lots of youtube LX channels have been sent free boards from jlcpcb for some advertising.
 
Bit late to be giving advice about board layout.
Fatter tracks, ground pours, DRC's all good stuff.
Plus some fixing holes are always a good idea.

I'd be interested t know who did the boards at that price, now I've kind of retired I am losing access to the place I used.

Fixing holes!!!! Good idea.

I have used JPCPCB too. Cheap as chips. Quality "okay". P&P is the most expensive part which for smallish boards is around £5. They allow combining of P&P with lcsc.com a large parts supplier if you need bits.

They fab in a few days. Shipping takes 10 days or so from CN.

No connection. Give then a go. The above it all written with a caveat that I have no idea what I am doing!
 
Ordered on 11th, arrived 15th
Total £6.12 for 10 boards.
That was with a first order discount on DHL. Quality looks fine, how would I know :)

A few mistakes but all in all could be a lot worse for a first stab.

Anchorlight/regulator next. :cool:




IS1H7rt.jpg
 
nice one GHA!

OT:
regarding enclosure size, my main problem with arduinos and various kit I've built for the boat (mostly outputing NMEA2K) is that I end up with a smallish box and having to feed 9-10 cables in it. It's pure hell, tried various things, it's all messy and awful. Bought some green 10pin linear plugs I'm going to use soon, but not too happy with them either.
Wonder what you use on your larger projects!

cheers

V.

hi,

I uses JST / XH connectors like these for signal lines;

"10set 4S1P 6S1P Battery Balance Charger Cable right angle Connector JST XH Plugs"

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272939215591

Search ebay for "Battery Balance Charger Cable JST XH Plugs". 6Cells 1P - means 7 cables. These fit into 0.1" pitch header holes. Your next challenge is connecting them up. They save space compared to the others, otherwise you have the whole side of a board dedicated to connecting wires.

I also have the green linear plugs/sockets like these for power lines;

https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Plu...ngbo-Kangnex-Elec-WJ2EDGKB-5-08-2P_C8414.html
https://lcsc.com/product-detail/Plu...ingbo-Kangnex-Elec-WJ2EDGV-5-08-2P_C8461.html

If you order boards from JLCPCB you can combine the postage.

Finally I use these project boxes; Clear lid, water proof, come with grommets and holes, mounting holes, cheap.

https://www.banggood.com/SONOFF-IP6...-p-1223669.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
 
Top