Dimming cabin lights

[down...2 greens]

Hi all,

I know that this topic has been discussed before but I couldn't find exactly the information I was looking for. I'd like to be able to dim my two LED overhead saloon lights (both controlled via a single on/off switch at the minute). The existing switch is approximately 60mm x 60mm and fits into a circular cutout of about 48mm, and is white to match the surface it's mounted on.

My preference would be for a hardwired control to just replace the existing switch rather than add an additional panel cutout or have a remote that I'm likely to lose, but a lot of the options available look a bit naff. I did spot this but it's (a) the wrong colour, (b) going to require a bit of work neatly enlarging the existing hole and (c) nearly 130 quid!

There are plenty of alternatives though, including this sort of thing that I could just use in series with the existing switch. That has the advantage of a memory function for the last brightness level, which would be nice.

My main problem at this stage is trying to understand the connection requirements due to my electrical cluelessness. As usual, the existing switch only has the positive supply running to it. I think I did see one dimmer that only seemed to need the input/output positive connected, so something like that would obviously be the simplest solution (but I'm not sure if that would be PMW so maybe not suitable for LEDs anyway?) Everything else seems to need at least one - and sometimes two - negatives. It wouldn't be too difficult to get a connection from the dimmer location to the negative busbar at the switch panel but running one from the light(s) would be quite a bit trickier. I have read that some dimmers (leading edge/high side?) only need one negative but that others require both.

So, my questions are:

1. Will I definitely need to run a negative to the dimmer location?
2. If so, will a single one from the switch panel do the trick? (If not I could probably just use a spare PMW motor speed controller like the one happily dimming my strip lights)
3. Can the panel recommend an all-in-one switch/dimmer replacement for the current switch (which is a Vedder 10710/1)
4. And finally... since the lamps in question are these, which have a built-in voltage stabiliser, will a dimmer even work properly anyway?

Thanks as always!

 

[justanothersailboat]

Unfortunately I think the stabiliser/regulator circuitry in those lamps precludes normal means of dimming them.

I have dimmable LEDs using LEDs without regulator (that would be pretty unhappy if fed raw 13.something v from the engine alternator) and a separate dimmer/regulator unit. positive and negative run from the boat switchpanel to the dimmer unit and a separate positive and negative from unit to the lights. The dimmer unit plugs into an 0-10v dimmer dial which controls the dimming level, so the unit itself just gets tucked away in the back of a locker. Tagra one, I think, from ultraleds (no affiliation). It was £20-30? can't recall. Anyway it was notably cheaper than a marine all-in-one switch/dimmer/controller.

 

[LittleSister]

Doesn't one just reduce the size of the flame by winding the wick in a little?

 

[wonkywinch]

Similar post going on here - Making a LED reading lamp dimmable

How about one of these?

 

[down...2 greens]

Yes I did see that other thread, thanks - it doesn't quite answer my questions though. Maybe you're right - a couple of coloured gels and a disco ball would give all the ambience anyone could want.

(But if anyone does have any alternative ideas please share...)

 

[wonkywinch]

Any reply, would need to know more about the existing set up.

Does the switch control any other lights?

Are the existing LEDs dimmable versions?

What voltage are the luminaires (ie complete LED fitting inc any driver if present)?

 

[down...2 greens]

The current switch only controls the 2 lights that I would like to dim. I'm not certain if the existing LEDs are dimmable (they are the ones I linked to, and I've emailed Boatlamps to ask) but it's not really a dealbreaker because I can just replace if necessary.

The light at the moment are powered via the main switch panel so I would guess the voltage varies between 12-14 depending on alternator, battery charger etc.

 

[stu9000]

I have been having lots of fun with raspberry pico microcontroller and addressable Led strips. The pico costs £4 and it is relatively easy to wire in Leds and a potentiometer to dim brightness.

My boat is now riddled with heat sensors, water level guages and adjustable Leds.

Im a teacher and have been working up easy access resources for my Year 10s for a while now. They're all on www.pythonninja.co.uk. The website is definitely a work in progress and is not optimised for phones (its fine on a tablet). But the tutorials are tried and tested. Feel free to message me with any questions.