Diesel bug

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Tarn

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Hi I’ve discovered bug in my filters Serviced engine changed filters I’ve used marine 16 bug killer and am then going to use marine 16 preventative treatment Should I run the engine to pass treated fuel through the system ? Any other tips thanks
 
I would run the engine to make sure that the treated diesel is in the return line etc. It's very unlikely that diesel bug would form anywhere but the tank because of the need for a diesel/water interface but once you've treated it, there's no downside to circulating it.

Richard
 
If you have a water separator in the fuel delivery line it’s worth checking/draining.

Many people buy a insurance policy by making a simple fuel polishing rig. Racor type filter, electric fuel pump, hose and clips is all that is required. Many relevant threads have been started on here.

For extra peace of mind, pass all of the fuel in the tank through the rig and into containers, then return to tank.
 
The main 'bug' is of course that which likes high moisture content fuel and / or lives at or near the oil / water interface. But its not all ... there are bugs that thrive on sulphir ... SRB's as we term them ... Sulphur Reducing Bacteria.

SRB is less common now of course since reduction of sulphur levels - but not eradicated.

To OP ... if you are using a 'Bug killer' after find evidence - then of course you need to make sure all 'killer' is circulated through system.

The way I would attack it ...

1. Syphon all contents of fuel tank.
2. If you have a drain cock in the pick up area - open that once tank drained - to get last drops out.
3. Let fuel stand and water settle if any.
4. Syphon of 'dry fuel'into clean container, leaving water and a small amount of fuel ... a few mm's is enough ... in the first container..... discard that bit.
5. Add Bug killer to second containers 'dry fuel'. Give it a mix.

If you were to have job done by 'professionals' - they would often steam clean the tank ... but its not absolutely necessary if DIY.

OK ... you now have treated fuel. Then what you can do - is pour in an amount to just cover bottom of tank ... leave for a bit ... 10 mins or so ... open drain cock and collect - compare to the batch you still have ... if same - I would pour all back in and then start engine.

On the subject of chemicals to use - there are basically two types.
a) is just a killer - I strongly do not recc'd this as it produces residue and leads to blocked filters etc.
and
b) Enzyme based which kills but also breaks up the residue to allow it to pass through filters and actually be burnt in the engine.

I thoroughly recc'd use of b) and not only when an attack is evident, but also as a precautionary measure. I add a shot in my tank in spring and another shot each second top up I make.
 
Refueler said:
The main 'bug' is of course that which likes high moisture content fuel and / or lives at or near the oil / water interface. But its not all ... there are bugs that thrive on sulphir ... SRB's as we term them ... Sulphur Reducing Bacteria.

SRB is less common now of course since reduction of sulphur levels - but not eradicated.

To OP ... if you are using a 'Bug killer' after find evidence - then of course you need to make sure all 'killer' is circulated through system.

The way I would attack it ...

1. Syphon all contents of fuel tank.
2. If you have a drain cock in the pick up area - open that once tank drained - to get last drops out.
3. Let fuel stand and water settle if any.
4. Syphon of 'dry fuel'into clean container, leaving water and a small amount of fuel ... a few mm's is enough ... in the first container..... discard that bit.
5. Add Bug killer to second containers 'dry fuel'. Give it a mix.

If you were to have job done by 'professionals' - they would often steam clean the tank ... but its not absolutely necessary if DIY.

OK ... you now have treated fuel. Then what you can do - is pour in an amount to just cover bottom of tank ... leave for a bit ... 10 mins or so ... open drain cock and collect - compare to the batch you still have ... if same - I would pour all back in and then start engine.

On the subject of chemicals to use - there are basically two types.
a) is just a killer - I strongly do not recc'd this as it produces residue and leads to blocked filters etc.
and
b) Enzyme based which kills but also breaks up the residue to allow it to pass through filters and actually be burnt in the engine.

I thoroughly recc'd use of b) and not only when an attack is evident, but also as a precautionary measure. I add a shot in my tank in spring and another shot each second top up I make.
Click to expand...

And could the enzyme based one ( which I used) produce black looking fuel which will neither filter out through my 2 micron filter nor settle out when stood?
 
Many people buy a insurance policy by making a simple fuel polishing rig. Racor type filter, electric fuel pump, hose and clips is all that is required. Many relevant threads have been started on here.

For extra peace of mind, pass all of the fuel in the tank through the rig and into containers, then return to tank.
Click to expand...

Over the years of blending fuels and treating them - I have a system at home to 'polish' fuel. Basically all the samples my Labs had left over after testing - instead of PAYING disposal company ... yes - they really want paying ... to get rid of old samples - I collected them at home in my barn. I then mixed to create a fuel to add to my usual retail supply I used.
My filter system was based on first a 5micron then a 2micron setup - I used the fuel in a 60% retail + 40% my mix in my Perkins 4-107. It soon told me to not do this.

I put samples of the mix I had in the barn to my lab and the results showed even though the fuel looked OK - it was not suitable for engine use. The filters had only removed the larger residues. Combining with good retail fuel did not make enough difference. I could of course use engine filters - but do I really want to be spending all my time changing filters ?

Just a comment - I know a number of Companys in UK that started up providing such service when it became talked about years ago - but they soon went 'bust'.
 
And could the enzyme based one ( which I used) produce black looking fuel which will neither filter out through my 2 micron filter nor settle out when stood?
Click to expand...

It shouldn't do that .... in fact I've seen some horrendous contaminated fuel that treated has passed through and burnt. Colour has been dark though.

All I can say is maybe the Enzyme based you used is less potent or not enough added to the fuel ?

EDIT : Having delved back into my archives and also the article I linked to later in this thread - I found my notes on a certain Enzyme Based additive that failed testing. It killed the bugs OK ... but the enzyme part failed dismally. It may be you have some of that additive ? Read the test data in the later post.

The one I use is based on Startron .... only because its difficult for me to get over here. I used it on some bad fuels and its worked a treat. I have access to refinery grade chemicals of course as we sell / operate them - but bug killer is not in demand now and to buy tons is a bit over the top for my personal use !
 
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Mr Refueler,

That's an interesting comment from someone with years of relevant experience. That said, I'm a bit confused :)

You said that you passed the fuel through two filter stages. Later, you noted that you could of course use engine filters. Can you please clarify? Many thanks.

(Yes, I have an (unused) polishing rig)
 
I used commonly available micron filters that can be used for domestic water or heating fuel systems. I could have taken from my lab - but they are not cheap ...

The comment about Engine Filters - after lab tests showed that even though I used 2 micron filters - the fuel was still unsuitable ... was that if I did use them - I'd be changing filters all day !!
 
I would add to be very carefully about how you treat it and think about the consequences. It may not be the case with you, but if you have lots of fuel in the tank(s) and go ahead and treat it, epsecially with a treatment that says it emulsifies the water and everything else with the fuel, you will have contaminated fuel filters for ages, and go through a lot of filters. I am afraid far better to remove as much of the fuel as possible one way or another (obvioulsy it depends on how much is involved). There are mobile polishing companies if large amounts of fuel are involved. As other have said it is alos very important to you your best to remove any water and contaminants at the bottom of the tank as almost certainly there will be some there.
 
Once a year I pump the fuel out of my tank with the polishing rig into containers (no drain off fitted). Then check the colour as the last of it is pumped out. Check all round the tank. Refill with the rig again. This only takes a couple of hours but ensures another year of problem free running.

Rest of the year add Marine 16 after each refill.
 
I think the warning about Emulsified water is to be honest overcautious. The amount of water unless significant should not be a problem .... all fuels in fact have a water content.... albeit small.

The idea of the enzyme based chemicals is to break up and disperse the micro organisms so they pass through and get burnt with the fuel. Where some also disperse any water, that is suspended water / moisture - not free water laying in the tank bottom. Free water is too large a volume for a chemical such as used here. Drain or syphon of the free water and there should be no lasting effects with treatment. Filters will not be compromised because the purpose of the chemical is not only to kill bugs but to also remove the results by burning off.

This is the PBO testing conducted some time ago and led to a certain 'supplier' disappearing of the 'forum' ... some may remember ..

https://www.transdiesel.com/app_docs/diesel bug test results.pdf
 
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Once a year I pump the fuel out of my tank with the polishing rig into containers (no drain off fitted). Then check the colour as the last of it is pumped out. Check all round the tank. Refill with the rig again. This only takes a couple of hours but ensures another year of problem free running.

Rest of the year add Marine 16 after each refill.
Click to expand...

I would suggest that the most effective of your regime is the addition of Marine 16. The polishing ? I would think is more comforting to you than actually doing anything. My purely personal opinion.
 
Refueler said:
This is the PBO testing conducted some time ago and led to a certain 'supplier' disappearing of the 'forum' ... some may remember ..

https://www.transdiesel.com/app_docs/diesel bug test results.pdf
Click to expand...

I remember that well. I used to be a firm believer in Soltron, until it started to be sold by all and sundry, in different style bottles with different labels. Frankly, there was no way of knowing what you were buying. I changed to Marine 16 and have used that since.
 
Soltron is available again ... but I have no idea if they modified it at all. I do note that not so many people trying to sell it now !!

I'm happy to use Marine 16 or Startron - whichever is on the shelf.

This is not a sales pitch to support those products nor do suggest others follow my regime >>>>

The last time I emptied my fuel tank is so long ago - I actually cannot remember which year it was. Even when I had trouble in 2011 on cruise in Sweden / Finland Archipelago - I still didn't , basically I didn't treat couple years before the trip.
Bit like don't buy a mechanics car. The last car a mechanic wants to work on is his own. But I have used enzyme based additive at start of year since then to get rid of any contaminate in the tank and to keep my system 'free running' .... adding an odd shot here and there through the year.

Now that I've said that - next spring - I'm going to have big trouble !! :rolleyes:
 
Freebee said:
I always wonder why nobody uses Biobor which is one of the few fuel additives used and approved for aircraft fuel.
Click to expand...
Following Nigel Calder's recommendation in the 90s I used Biobor JF religiously when cruising overseas. I never had a problem with my fuel - ever - despite some dubious fill-ups.

Eventually I ran out of it and tried to buy new stock in the early 2000s when finally back in the UK. I was told it was banned for sale in the EU due to it's carcinogenic properties (Gulp!).

I started using the Starbrite Startron product instead which seemed to work OK although I did get bug one year.

I heard that Biobor had been re-formulated for the EU market - don't know whether this is true or not.
 
Freebee said:
I always wonder why nobody uses Biobor which is one of the few fuel additives used and approved for aircraft fuel.
Click to expand...

It is ubiquitous in the US. Effective and popular.

As for carcenigen listing, there is only the "potencial" catagorization for the naptha base. Probably little different from the jet fuel they add it to. The active ingredient is not listed. Don't drink it.
 
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