D4 260s low turbo pressure on one engine

wivsi

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On mine, it's actually possible to change props from an inflatable tender, using a block of wood to chock them off.
I ruined a ratchet wrench in the salty water, but it was much cheaper than a lift out.
So I think I’m probably going to give this a go. We have the same boat…

Any tips for getting them off ok? I can cope with ruining a wrench but anything else other than being prepared to get wet?
 

SC35

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So I think I’m probably going to give this a go. We have the same boat…

Any tips for getting them off ok? I can cope with ruining a wrench but anything else other than being prepared to get wet?

Don‘t drop anything!

Secure the tender at both ends, use a couple of fenders to get the right distance.

Getting off the second nut needs a decent length metal bar and the special tool.
 

wivsi

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Don‘t drop anything!

Secure the tender at both ends, use a couple of fenders to get the right distance.

Getting off the second nut needs a decent length metal bar and the special tool.
Sorry one more… did you have to use a puller or just a decent yank on the prop got it off?
 

SC35

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Sorry one more… did you have to use a puller or just a decent yank on the prop got it off?

It will either come off really easily if properly greased last time it went on or be totally stuck.
If totally stuck, you'll need a puller.

The props are heavy ... be prepared to hold on to them when they come off 😮
 

vas

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scary stuff, hope you do all that in 2m of nice and clean water that you can dip and pick up the pieces :)
would it make sense to tie with a thin line the prop before lifting/whilst working or will it be facing upwards anyway throughout the process?
 

SC35

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scary stuff, hope you do all that in 2m of nice and clean water that you can dip and pick up the pieces :)
would it make sense to tie with a thin line the prop before lifting/whilst working or will it be facing upwards anyway throughout the process?

The drive is tilted upwards at 40 degrees or so.
Just don't sneeze at the wrong time.
 

SC35

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Upside down umbrella under the drive to catch any bits dropped?

... resulting in the person holding the umbrella ending up 1.5m underwater holding onto the handle, having invented a unique type of ground tackle secured by several kilos of Volvo Penta's finest Nibral.
 
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wivsi

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So, an update.

Lipstick lines have not moved. Balls. It seems props are not slipping. That would at least have been an easy explanation.

However, I’ve just had a mate take a quick look and he has reminded me that we just had the gear actuator cables changed during service.

I am now wondering if the actuator cables are not set correctly. That would mean not quite full gear engagement, and so a slipping clutch.

We are going to take a further look later today. @volvopaul if you have any thoughts on whether this is worthy of investigation I’d appreciate it. And of course, any other ideas from all you helpful people…

cheers!
 

SC35

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Slipping cone clutch seems unlikely.
Symptoms of that are ”slow to engage gear” / “no clunk“ and slipping at low revs.

The turbo boost imbalance is more interesting.
 
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simonfraser

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Should get a noticable clunk from the cone clutch when engaging, if so slipping v unlikely

mine did eventually slip after v soft no clunk engagement, then they slipped at 1k revs or so, just enough to limp home as I was near
 

wivsi

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Another update.

Went for a test run today with a more mechanical friend. No clues. Definitely slipping.

Got back, resigned to a lift and a look at the gearbox. Lines on props had moved, completely. So our test run on Saturday ended, by huge coincidence, with all the lines in the same places; but the props are slipping.

I got them both off, in water… no major drama with it banged against the dock.

Fingers crossed…
 
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SC35

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Another update.

Went for a test run today with a more mechanical friend. No clues. Definitely slipping.

Got back, resigned to a lift and a look at the gearbox. Lines on props had moved, completely. So our test run on Saturday ended, by huge coincidence, with all the lines in the same places; but the props are slipping.

I got them both off, in water… no major drama with it banged against the dock.

Fingers crossed…

Well done!

Good idea to grease the inside mating surfaces of the new props before fitting.
 

oldgit

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SC 35 with similar problems last month and was put on our drying blocks to check .
Owner suspected hubs and had marked all on previous lift out.
Sure enough marks no longer aligned.
Fortunately DIY owner had a spare set of props, so no boating time lost.

Send off old props for remedial work.
 

SC35

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SC 35 with similar problems last month and was put on our drying blocks to check .
Owner suspected hubs and had marked all on previous lift out.
Sure enough marks no longer aligned.
Fortunately DIY owner had a spare set of props, so no boating time lost.

Send off old props for remedial work.

No, don‘t send off the props for remedial work.
The man that drives around and shouts “Anyyyyy scraaap metaaalll”: give them to him.
Then buy new propellers.

Please don’t ask me how i know this to be the best course of action.
 
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oldgit

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No, don‘t send off the props for remedial work.
The man that drives around and shouts “Anyyyyy scraaap metaaalll”: give them to him.
Then buy new propellers.

Please don’t ask me how i know this to be the best course of action.
Did mention this warning to him. :)
 

wivsi

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Well done!

Good idea to grease the inside mating surfaces of the new props before fitting.
Hi - props about to arrive, but hoping you can help me with one last thing. Any idea of tightening torques? I can't find a manual! Thanks - Simon
 

SC35

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Hi - props about to arrive, but hoping you can help me with one last thing. Any idea of tightening torques? I can't find a manual! Thanks - Simon

I‘m away at the moment, but my props came with instructions.

The torque on the forward hub nut is ”lots”,with lower values for the cone and nut - the instructions have the values.
 
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