d3l wiring. again.

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causeway

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Having got my eberspacher up and running without the thermostat, I bought a new one and am scratching my head as to why it won't work.

It's a d3l, working well. Ok for voltage, ok for fuel.

Screenshot_2015-01-05-13-17-55.jpg

This is the stat. When I wire it as shown in the picture, all I get is the fan and a single click (not the fuel pump).

The other wires off the loom are:
Purple= blue
Black/white= white (thick)
Yellow= yellow
Red= red
Black= black
Brown= brown

Also here is the wiring diagram (ignore scribbles)

Image_1420470847735.jpg

Any ideas chaps? The part number is correct for 3dl.
 
Are you sure that your "new" thermostat is compatible with the old wiring of your original thermostat.

The diagram you are showing of the thermostat is showing switched positions for heat.

The new thermostat uses a variable pot to register the temperature and has a red and green light.

On the new wiring:- Brown/white (Brown) is 12v "-" goes to pin 1 of the thermostat.
Grey/red (grey) temperature setting "+" goes to pin 2 of the thermostat .
Red (red) power from battery 12v "+" goes to pin 5 of the thermostat.
Yellow (yellow) power to heater 12v "+" goes to pin 6 of the thermostat.
Grey (Black) Temperature sensor goes to pin T of the thermostat.

Coloured wires in brackets are the extended harness.

Double check all this as I may be wrong.
 
Big John said:
Are you sure that your "new" thermostat is compatible with the old wiring of your original thermostat.

The diagram you are showing of the thermostat is showing switched positions for heat.

The new thermostat uses a variable pot to register the temperature and has a red and green light.

On the new wiring:- Brown/white (Brown) is 12v "-" goes to pin 1 of the thermostat.
Grey/red (grey) temperature setting "+" goes to pin 2 of the thermostat .
Red (red) power from battery 12v "+" goes to pin 5 of the thermostat.
Yellow (yellow) power to heater 12v "+" goes to pin 6 of the thermostat.
Grey (Black) Temperature sensor goes to pin T of the thermostat.

Coloured wires in brackets are the extended harness.

Double check all this as I may be wrong.
Click to expand...

It was originally fitted with a rotary switch and a similar switch, with two lights on. Slightly different design but the part number on butlerteknik says it's compatible.

Thanks for the info.
 
Ok looking at your wiring order it seems very different from the original and as seen in the top picture. You also say black goes to 'T', I assume this is a mistake?

Thanks
 
I have now manage to find your thermostat on the Butlerteknik site (as I cannot make the image from the forum clear) and that is different to the wiring diagram I have, best ignore what I said to be on the safe side. On your thermostat there is no "T" connection. There is a B+ in the line drawing via the fuse which would be the power from the 12v battery to the thermostat but I do not see that connection in the picture of the thermostat.

It is very hard to make out the wiring from the old schematic with cable colours and pin numbers. Sorry I can not help any more.
 
Hmmm, mine looks the same but is different internally. Bummer. Thing is, it states where red, yellow and brown go, just not the other wires! When I connect the three it doesn't fire up!
 
causeway said:
It was originally fitted with a rotary switch and a similar switch, with two lights on........
Click to expand...

According to the installation manual if the Eber is fitted with a rotary rheostat switch then the installation is different than for the square thermostat you show in your original post. The manual states that "When using Rheostat switch, the Return Ducting method must be used as shown on page 9. This allows the heater’s internal sensor to properly monitor cab temperature."
It seems to follow therefore that if you have changed from the Rheostat to the Thermostat then the Eber installation may need to be amended to account for the fact that you will no longer be using the internal thermostat but an external one.

My installation manual appears slightly different from the Butler one. If you would like a copy, please PM me as I am unable to attach it to this post.

I hope this helps.
 
Last edited:
causeway said:
It was originally fitted with a rotary switch and a similar switch, with two lights on. Slightly different design but the part number on butlerteknik says it's compatible.

Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

Checking your schematic of the D3l it shows your "rotary" switch as fixed points. This is feeding back to the heater a "heat" position rather than temperature. What you have now is a thermostat and I do not think it is compatible with the heater wiring. Suggest you speak direct with Butlerteknik to their technical people.
 
To make things clearer here is a better reproduction http://www.sales.butlertechnik.com/techdocs/D3L info/Eberspacher D3L-B3L Installation manual.pdf

Page 12 shows the diagrams of the original rotary switch you had. Connection 1 and 4 being the 12vdc from the main harness but when it gets to the rotary switch they become 7 and 2.

If you check the lowest of the three diagrams on the page item 3.2.1 (timer) it gives a more logic understanding of the functions.

1 and 4 are 12v power to the timer.

You will see 3.1.4 wired to give full/half heat and 3.1.2(optional) is a switch for continuous operation. 3.1.4 is operated by the timer switch depending how you want to run the heater.
The signal to turn on the heater comes via the timer switch sending 12v+ to the heater via pin 5.

So pins 6 (common) and 2 and 3 control full or half heat.

With this you may be able to modify your thermostat connection using the top diagram which shows a separate thermostat wired into connection block along side the rotary switch. This again will only give you full or half heat depending on temperature rise/reached. You must break the line at 2A as shown.
Good luck.
 
Last edited:
TW, that is very possible and actually checking on the butler website it seems that this stat is for the d1l! Currently asking the ebay seller for clarification. He might have a working diagram.

I'd settle for the rotary switch with on/off/vent/half if anyone has one available? The half heat setting is just for bed time/milder nights.

Thanks John, even though that's a bit over my head! I will try and make sense of it.
 
It's the really old school rotary like this:

UniversalSwitch_01_big.jpg

The ebay seller I got the unit from confirms it's the wrong model. Thank ganesha, I thought I was going mental.
 
Good man, thank you very much.

To add insult to injury I'm now getting intermittent flame out after a couple of hours running! It makes a 'pop' from the heater and goes into cool down mode

I've checked voltage, fuel (inc pump gauze) and now I'm at a loss. The overheat switch isn't activated at this point.

Glow plug maybe?
 
If it runs for a couple of hours there cannot be much wrong with it.

As David2452 says it sounds like fuel but then would it run as long as you say it does?

Have you checked the glow plug screen?

Does it go into normal shut down mode and turn the glow plug back on to burn the fuel off?

Once it has shut down will it start up again say after 5mins?
 
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