pvb
Well-Known Member
I don't think the D3L has a glow plug screen.
d3l wiring. again.
- Thread starter causeway
- Start date
I don't think the D3L has a glow plug screen.
causeway
Well-Known Member
Something like the wick then, maybe?
I've just rechecked the line off the cav filter and there was a slight tear in it. I'm going to see if this helps.
I'm really tempted to just sell this unit and buy a recon d4.
I've just rechecked the line off the cav filter and there was a slight tear in it. I'm going to see if this helps.
I'm really tempted to just sell this unit and buy a recon d4.
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David2452
Well-Known Member
Ah, taking fuel from the engine feed are we? maybe a proper seperate dip tube would help then.
causeway
Well-Known Member
The filters are all clean and there isn't much 'lift', also I cleaned the tank thoroughly. Do you think this would still make a difference?
It's been running happily for an hour or two now, I'll give it until bed time to decide any more drastic measures are needed.
Thanks for the heads up.
It's been running happily for an hour or two now, I'll give it until bed time to decide any more drastic measures are needed.
Thanks for the heads up.
David2452
Well-Known Member
Checked my controller bin, I have two off 4 position switches, one off 501 controller, of off mini controller and one of the type you just found unsuitable but none of the basic switches, sorry.
causeway
Well-Known Member
Do you know if the 4 position switches work with the d3l? Thanks for checking for me David.
I recently got a new battery charger so the local guys says have a good test at voltages at the heater. He thinks the fact that it goes out after that long means it's likely a voltage problem.
Not at the boat for the next few days (forecast looks shitty for a few days!). Investigations will continue.
In the meantime the switch is just red and yellow wires on a switch, with a black cable doubled back between another two pins er, black and white I think. I'm usually ok at wiring stuff up but this thing has my head turned.
I recently got a new battery charger so the local guys says have a good test at voltages at the heater. He thinks the fact that it goes out after that long means it's likely a voltage problem.
Not at the boat for the next few days (forecast looks shitty for a few days!). Investigations will continue.
In the meantime the switch is just red and yellow wires on a switch, with a black cable doubled back between another two pins er, black and white I think. I'm usually ok at wiring stuff up but this thing has my head turned.
causeway
Well-Known Member
Do you know if the 4 position switches work with the d3l? Thanks for checking for me David.
I recently got a new battery charger so the local guys says have a good test at voltages at the heater. He thinks the fact that it goes out after that long means it's likely a voltage problem.
Not at the boat for the next few days (forecast looks shitty for a few days!). Investigations will continue.
In the meantime the switch is just red and yellow wires on a switch, with a black cable doubled back between another two pins er, black and white I think. I'm usually ok at wiring stuff up but this thing has my head turned.
I recently got a new battery charger so the local guys says have a good test at voltages at the heater. He thinks the fact that it goes out after that long means it's likely a voltage problem.
Not at the boat for the next few days (forecast looks shitty for a few days!). Investigations will continue.
In the meantime the switch is just red and yellow wires on a switch, with a black cable doubled back between another two pins er, black and white I think. I'm usually ok at wiring stuff up but this thing has my head turned.
David2452
Well-Known Member
I don't think so, they work with the D3LC for sure but that has a more sophistocated ECU.
causeway
Well-Known Member
Ah ok, well thanks anyway David.
causeway
Well-Known Member
Well i got everything working as I wanted and thought I'd post the info for anyone in the same boat.
On and off is as usual controlled by red and yellow.
Red and yellow plus black and white wires = full heat.
Red and yellow plus white and blue = half heat.
I wired it using toggles because I like em. A rotary knob will also work.
Tracked my problems down to a poor connection on a fuse. Runs pretty well now although it occasionally blows out when in 'half het'.
Sounds like the heater is pulsing, any ideas?
The filter is clean fwiw.
Anyway, hope the info is of some use at some point, to someone.
On and off is as usual controlled by red and yellow.
Red and yellow plus black and white wires = full heat.
Red and yellow plus white and blue = half heat.
I wired it using toggles because I like em. A rotary knob will also work.
Tracked my problems down to a poor connection on a fuse. Runs pretty well now although it occasionally blows out when in 'half het'.
Sounds like the heater is pulsing, any ideas?
The filter is clean fwiw.
Anyway, hope the info is of some use at some point, to someone.
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