D1-30 cannot get above 2000rpm and its not the prop or fuel

Jamie Dundee

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Does the engine respond in exactly the same way if you run on the faulty engine and leave the good engine in neutral
I’d be interested in the result of the opposite scenario, run the ’good’ engine on full with the ‘faulty’ engine in neutral.
 

Gavdog

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I had the very same thing happen on my D2-40, and equally some of our school boats. Turns out on all occasions it was the clutch pack in the Saildrive that had gone.

It took ages to work out. Even the local Volvo Penta engineer had no clue what it was. It was odd in that the engine would fully rev-up in neutral, but in-gear it wouldn't go over 2300rpm. Swapped over the saildrive for a new one and bingo, solved. Then stripped-out the old clutch pack which was rebuilt (beware - clutch kit pack from Volvo is ruinously expensive), and thats now fine as well (used it in one of our school boats).

Hmmm, I've never heard of this before but this certainly sounds plausible. I've noticed sometimes it gets to 2300rpm on startup when I first move into gear but then it drops slowly down to 2000rpm and then that's it so your clutch idea is definitely a possible. Only problem is, how to test that theory without having to buy/install new sail drive or clutch pack? Any thoughts on that? Thanks heaps
 

Gavdog

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Beware that the hose can look new on the outside but peel away on the inside causing a blockage. Back pressure would cause the effects your seeing.

As your getting different readings out of gear on the two tachometers then I would be tempted to do a full power on one engine then full on the other engine and see what speed your achieving, this would give you a rough guide as to if your looking at an actual engine issue or just a tacho issue.
Definitely not tacho. Speed is significantly slower on port engine. Thanks though.
 

Gavdog

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Definitely not tacho. Speed is significantly slower on port engine. Thanks though.
Ps, can you please confirm which is the hose location of the one you're meaning. Is it the massive black one that leads out of the boat or a different one? I'll try to go through all the hoses in any case when back on the boat. Cheers
 

Gavdog

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You describe earlier how the fuel lever travels to the point at which the engine reaches its maximum speed and though the lever continues to move to the full range high speed stop without speeding up any more. If there is no sigh of the engine trying to speed up then it suggests there is a governor problem . Does the engine respond in exactly the same way if you run on the faulty engine and leave the good engine in neutral If it does behave the same and no sign of overload then the governor needs to be inspected including the linkage to the fuel pump.

Can it be the governor though if it still revs fine out of gear? Cheers
 

scottie

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Definitely sounds like a fuel problem from your answers either lack of fuel to engine which should be checked with independent temp supply possible air in supply, line blockage breather blockage then if still faulty check for faulty fuel pumps including lift then governor
 

Talulah

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I’ve only just seen this thread so apologies if I’ve missed the bits about the prop.
If the prop is a feathering prop it’s possible the stop inside the hub has broken. Depending where it is jammed will affect the pitch of the prop. It’s possible the pitch has now significantly increased and the engine can no longer turn it at the higher revs.
 

bignick

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Hi Gavdog,

I just re-read all your earlier replies, and noticed that you said that it revs fine to 3000 RP,M in neutral AND REVERSE. This is quite important, so please double check.

Can you confirm that you’re getting full astern thrust and the stopping power is similar between port and on starboard engines?
If they are similar then it is more likely to be something in the drivetrain. This isn’t 100% certain, because fwd/reverse gearbox ratios are often different and prop efficiency can vary, but is a good indicator. if you’re getting similar engine performance P & S when under load in reverse, and completely different when running ahead RPM, then it looks more like a drivetrain issue.

I can’t find a reply about what drivetrain these engines are connected to, but I’m guessing that since you’re talking about a pair of D1-30s, you’re talking about a cat, not a MoBo. Correct? Saildeives? If so, then I’d start with the clutch pack in the gearbox, as mentioned in post #37 (it’s quite a common thing to fail on high hours saildrives).

This is an expensive fix though, so if you can swap over the exhaust hoses between P&S engines to eliminate exhaust back pressure issues, which is a job you could do yourself, then I’d try that first. It would be criminal to strip a saildrive and replace a clutch pack and find later it was a £50 hose.

PS, to test astern thrust, you’re better doing a dock pull , ie. Build up astern RPM gradually with the boat tied securely alongside the dock. If you just give it loads of astern RPM when you’re moving then you will most likely cause cavitation, which won’t generate the same engine load and won’t prove anything.

cheers,
nick
 
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Bilgediver

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Can it be the governor though if it still revs fine out of gear? Cheers
The governor does not have to apply much fuel for neutral running. so part of the governor is fine. However to get enough fuel delivered for full load at full revs the governor has to move the components a lot further and it is possible that it is under these conditions things go wrong. and it is unable to move the fuel pump rack to full delivery and as insufficient fuel being delivered the engine slows down
 

Gavdog

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Fuel Pump/Governor.
When loaded, it doesn't supply enough fuel, hence the low revs.
Unloaded, no probs, it'll rev fine.
Regards.
Definitely not the fuel pump. I replaced that. Also bypassed using tote tank and exactly same revs. Could be governor though but not sure how to check. Thanks!
 

Gavdog

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Hi Gavdog,

I just re-read all your earlier replies, and noticed that you said that it revs fine to 3000 RP,M in neutral AND REVERSE. This is quite important, so please double check.

Can you confirm that you’re getting full astern thrust and the stopping power is similar between port and on starboard engines?
If they are similar then it is more likely to be something in the drivetrain. This isn’t 100% certain, because fwd/reverse gearbox ratios are often different and prop efficiency can vary, but is a good indicator. if you’re getting similar engine performance P & S when under load in reverse, and completely different when running ahead RPM, then it looks more like a drivetrain issue.

I can’t find a reply about what drivetrain these engines are connected to, but I’m guessing that since you’re talking about a pair of D1-30s, you’re talking about a cat, not a MoBo. Correct? Saildeives? If so, then I’d start with the clutch pack in the gearbox, as mentioned in post #37 (it’s quite a common thing to fail on high hours saildrives).

This is an expensive fix though, so if you can swap over the exhaust hoses between P&S engines to eliminate exhaust back pressure issues, which is a job you could do yourself, then I’d try that first. It would be criminal to strip a saildrive and replace a clutch pack and find later it was a £50 hose.

PS, to test astern thrust, you’re better doing a dock pull , ie. Build up astern RPM gradually with the boat tied securely alongside the dock. If you just give it loads of astern RPM when you’re moving then you will most likely cause cavitation, which won’t generate the same engine load and won’t prove anything.

cheers,
nick
Yes that clutch seems definitive plausible but like you say I've got to eliminate everything else first. I've got to reassemble before I can rest revs again on my mooring but yes I'm sure we got to 3000 in reverse at the marina (just waiting on new thermostat to arrive from overseas before I reassemble and refill coolant). I'll switch the hoses like you say too. Cheers, will let you know how I get on. Everything is slow in this process as it is winter and it's on a mooring so getting out on fine day when not working is hard to come by
 

Gavdog

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The governor does not have to apply much fuel for neutral running. so part of the governor is fine. However to get enough fuel delivered for full load at full revs the governor has to move the components a lot further and it is possible that it is under these conditions things go wrong. and it is unable to move the fuel pump rack to full delivery and as insufficient fuel being delivered the engine slows down
OK, I definitely think governor is worth investigating again. I'll have to do some forum hunting to see how to check that though. I thought the mechanic had said that he thought governor was fine but is there a way to tell that easily?
 

Gavdog

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High pressure pump to injectors starting to fail? If it's failing then maybe not pumping enough fuel when engine under load? Partial blockage somewhere in high pressure lines?
Hmmm, interesting idea. How do I check that one? Thanks!
 
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