Gavdog
Member
Yep did this and exactly the same. Makes me think that the clutch is the most likely culprit suggested so far
D1-30 cannot get above 2000rpm and its not the prop or fuel
- Thread starter Gavdog
- Start date
Bilgediver
Well-Known Member
I am not familiar with that engine however the fuel pump is the same design as on many other Volvo and Beta and Yanmar engines. There are actually two fuel pumps in a row in a common body and are controlled by a single rack running fore and aft just below the pump flange on the engine. There is often some sort of access that allows you to view the rack or maybe a plug in the rear face of the engine that can be removed to check the rack movement.
Do you know if the service engineer that attended prior to this fault appearing removed the stop solenoid. It is possible that its position on the engine is important. Do both the solenoids on your engines look as if they are both identical and sitting in the same position in relation to the crankcase. some stop solenoids can limit the max fuel delivery if screwed in too far. Your solenoid is not in line with the rack so possibly bears on the connecting lever from the governor.
Your engine is also equipped with a manual stop lever. It is the small lever with a hole in it that you can see just above the governor throttle controls . Is this lever free and is it definitely sitting in the right position and not limiting governor load control? see page 88 in the manual it does not have a number here but appears in other drawings where irrelevant and IS numbered.
Service Manual
https://j109.org/docs/volvo_d1-30_workshop_manual.pdf
bignick
Well-Known Member
Worth doing the fwd & astern dock pull when you have it all back together The reason I suggest it is that it allows you to test the engine under load, which revving it out of gear doesn’t do. The fuel and exhaust flows are all much higher when the engine is loaded. It will help you eliminate a few of the possibilities.
if behaviour is different fwd and reverse, you may actually find it’s a thrust bearing or washer rather than the clutch pack, which could be cheaper! If you have one, you could also check exhaust temps at the manifold with an IR thermometer. That would give you an indication of how hard the engine is working compared to the other one.
if behaviour is different fwd and reverse, you may actually find it’s a thrust bearing or washer rather than the clutch pack, which could be cheaper! If you have one, you could also check exhaust temps at the manifold with an IR thermometer. That would give you an indication of how hard the engine is working compared to the other one.
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Mark6633
New Member
Did this ever get resolved? I have same issue with d1-13 shaft driven and need help urgently to resolve it. Engine was new. Had some vibration problems so they changed the Injectors and fuel pump. Re shimmed the pump now correct. Unable to get more than 2100rpm in gear, 1800 in reverse and 3400 in neutral.
They have checked everything ! Please advise as I’m loosing the season again :-(
They have checked everything ! Please advise as I’m loosing the season again :-(
Thresher
Well-Known Member
I have a d1-13 as well. Getting worried reading this, how many hours has your d1-13 done?
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Rarely is it a problem with the engine. The first thing is to check that the propeller is the correct size. What is the boat and what propeller do you have?
Chiara’s slave
Well-Known Member
If it’s a sudden occurrence, make sure your spare gloves haven’t fallen onto the air intake.