Cyclades

[jacaldo]

Originally posted in Scuttlebutt, think it may have been the wrong place.
Hi
In two weeks we will be sailing out of Lavrion for the first time having previously spent many years in the Ionian, Sporades and Argolic /Saronic.
The plan is the Western Cyclades for three weeks, now I don't know if I'm getting nervous in my old age but I can't help thinking about the Meltemi.
We enjoy cruising, not white knuckle racing, the yacht a Hanse 35 is well set up, maybe more than me.
My big question is can you forecast a big Meltemi accurately and if so are there plenty of safe bolt holes at this busy time of year?
Any advice from seasoned Cyclades sailors more than welcome.
Thanks

 

[truscott]

Well.... let me just say that the last couple of weeks forecasts have been particularly rubbish. We held off running down to Sounion from Poros because of the Meltemi, only for it not to blow and eventually when we sailed from Kanakia we had a great sail. And then when we were supposed to have a sweet day today sailing from Lavrion to Porto Rafti (I know it's not strictly the Western Cyclades), we had a really, really, awful day.

So.... as far as the forecasts go. They're pretty accurate.... some of the time and then way out occasionally.

As for bolt holes in the Western Cyclades (are you sure you meant West?). Naousa on Paros is wonderful but I'd call that Central Cyclades. Pariokia on Paros, less so. Nothing on Naxos. Heading West... Serifos has a nice new harbour with lazy lines etc... but the holding in the bay is reputedly cr*p (we haven't had problems there though). Vathi on Sifnos is beautiful with great holding (but then, we have one of those new fangled new gen Anchor thingies. No idea what it's like with a CQR). Milos caldera isn't really a place I'd like to be in a serious blow, but the inside of the pontoon has lazylines and as well as your anchor might work in a blow. Those are the ones I can think of off the top of my head. Oh and Despotika at the bottom of Anti-Paros. Windy, but no swell to speak of and good holding.

Personally, I'd recommend going down the middle and coming back from the East, but that's just because I like Iraklia, Schinoussa, Amorgas and Astpalia better.

Cheers, PT

 

[crisjones]

We are in the Cyclades and have been for a couple of months, in general the Zygrib GFS forecasts have been pretty good - especially for forecasting the stronger Meltemi winds, in this respect they have been excellent. The GFS forecast is never going to accurately predict smaller scale weather such as very strong winds on the lee side of some islands or local areas of contrary winds.

Your charter company should have plenty of experience sending clients out into the Meltemi and they should give you a decent briefing on safe bolt holes. There are many safe anchorages in the W Cyclades and truscott has covered a good few. Sand Bar bay NW Kythnos and Agios Stefanos on the E are both good, we are in Finikas, Syros and the anchorage is great so we are confident of sitting out the weekends F7-8 Meltemi without too much stress, excellent holding on sand and a lovely town.

Be very careful about going too far south - you will eventually have to get back!! We have seen many charter boats setting out into conditions that were pretty horrible just because they must get back to Lavrion. It is usually possible to set off very early - 0600hrs - and get some miles done before the wind really picks up since even the Meltemi generally eases somewhat overnight (not always though). Distances can be relatively short if you plan your route carefully so an early start gives you 3 or 4 hrs to get to your next destination.

 

[vyv_cox]

We have been finding a great deal more meltemi winds this year than in the past two. We normally rely on Poseidon, which has always been accurate for us, but in the area Evia Andros Tinos lately it has been far too optimistic. Meteo.gr is usually rather pessimistic but in this area lately it has been spot on. We left Batsi this morning at 0500 with Poseidon showing F 3-4 to the SW. Off Tinos we saw 36 knots in constant 30, which was even more than meteo.gr promised.

On places to go, don't visit Mykonos no matter what the crew say.

 

[jimbaerselman]

The meltemi is reasonably well forecast, but locally is strongly affected by terrain, which will cause increases/decreases of 10kt at forecast levels above F5.

Downwind of a ridge - add 10kts, and maybe patches of white water if there's a valley through the ridge. West of a round, high island, add 10kts. East of the same island, subtract 10kts and have a good time rolling in the swell. Downwind of it, expect vortices, gusts, calms and a confused swell - for a few minutes each.

Lots of bolt holes, but some are quite windy. Summary of the various islands' character and anchorages at:
[url]http://www.jimbsail.info/mediterranean/greece/cyclades[/URL]

 

[jacaldo]

Great tips so far, many thanks. Jim, I've been registered to your site for many years, it's been an enormous help.

 

[jimbaerselman]

Great tips so far, many thanks. Jim, I've been registered to your site for many years, it's been an enormous help.

Thanks!

 

[Mr Cassandra]

Blowing a refreshing 30kt at the moment on Siros with a couple gusts .Supposed to go up tomorrow F8 .

 

[RupertW]

On places to go, don't visit Mykonos no matter what the crew say.

Well we've never been there so had planned to go there on a trip round from Kassandra to Italy in a couple of weeks as it seemed a pity to leave Greece (for a year or two) without having been there. So what's the deal?

 

[vyv_cox]

Well we've never been there so had planned to go there on a trip round from Kassandra to Italy in a couple of weeks as it seemed a pity to leave Greece (for a year or two) without having been there. So what's the deal?

The marina is a mess. We spent a week there a few years ago due to strong winds and emerged covered in brown dust blown from the surrounding unfinished surrounds. Last week we met a man who had come out in the same state. There are very few lazy lines but the ground chains are there, providing a nice income for the divers who have to free anchors. It is a bit of a trek to the town, which is a tourist rip-off. We ate the worst meal we ever had in Greece at the restaurant half way between town and marina. Very little to recommend it in our eyes. And it always seems very windy.

 

[Mr Cassandra]

The marina is a mess. We spent a week there a few years ago due to strong winds and emerged covered in brown dust blown from the surrounding unfinished surrounds. Last week we met a man who had come out in the same state. There are very few lazy lines but the ground chains are there, providing a nice income for the divers who have to free anchors. It is a bit of a trek to the town, which is a tourist rip-off. We ate the worst meal we ever had in Greece at the restaurant half way between town and marina. Very little to recommend it in our eyes. And it always seems very windy.

You can say that again ,in case anyone missed it ...lol .it's a disgraceful place .

 

[RupertW]

The marina is a mess. We spent a week there a few years ago due to strong winds and emerged covered in brown dust blown from the surrounding unfinished surrounds. Last week we met a man who had come out in the same state. There are very few lazy lines but the ground chains are there, providing a nice income for the divers who have to free anchors. It is a bit of a trek to the town, which is a tourist rip-off. We ate the worst meal we ever had in Greece at the restaurant half way between town and marina. Very little to recommend it in our eyes. And it always seems very windy.

Thanks - very helpful - we are off down that way in a couple of days via the Sporades and will now probably not go as far South as Mykonos and find some other island after Skyros but before Sounion. Time is also rather constrained this year as we have just two weeks to get from Kassandra to Brindisi rather than last year's month long dawdle doing the othe way round.

 

[vyv_cox]

Thanks - very helpful - we are off down that way in a couple of days via the Sporades and will now probably not go as far South as Mykonos and find some other island after Skyros but before Sounion. Time is also rather constrained this year as we have just two weeks to get from Kassandra to Brindisi rather than last year's month long dawdle doing the othe way round.

When we came that way we were going more slowly, visited Petries on Evia, then down Kafirias Strait, anchored at Andros, then to Kythnos, one of our favourites. From there to Aigina. We have met quite a few boats this year who missed out Petries, but it's a long day to Andros from there. We anchored at Gavrio but then moved on to Batsi, more sheltered but lacking in provisions.

 

[RupertW]

When we came that way we were going more slowly, visited Petries on Evia, then down Kafirias Strait, anchored at Andros, then to Kythnos, one of our favourites. From there to Aigina. We have met quite a few boats this year who missed out Petries, but it's a long day to Andros from there. We anchored at Gavrio but then moved on to Batsi, more sheltered but lacking in provisions.

A slightly truncated version of that sounds good - especially Kythnos then Aegina before the Corinth Canal. We will try to get to Sounion as well if the weather works as it was our favourite place between the Ionian and the Sporades, and (again if weather this weekend is ok) probably do an overnight or two to eat up the miles so we have a bit of a break before heading on. The perils of a work "crisis" shortening a long planned holiday. Thanks for the tips which we can look up.