LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
Is it true that when a yard replaces a cutlass bearing they take the prop off then use a tubular drift over the shaft to push the bearing up the shaft into the tube and leave it there?
Cutlass Bearing
- Thread starter LadyInBed
- Start date
Allanrichard
Member
As a lot of 'P' brackets have a "shoulder" inside to stop the bearing riding back up the shaft I shouldn't imagine it's the normal practice. I use a device that enables me to replace my cutlass bearing without removing the shaft, and then allows me to press it back on afterwards. I know that a lot of yards use a similar device.
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
Is this a proprietary device or something you engineered?
How does it work, as there isn't much space to feed it up the shaft?
How does it work, as there isn't much space to feed it up the shaft?
nedmin
Well-Known Member
before advice is given do you know what a P bracket is?
Pye_End
Well-Known Member
Need to start with what sort of keel with knowing a bit more about the arrangement you have.
If there is a housing on the exit to the stern tube, and the stern tube enters the hull then no I would not expect the bearing to be pushed up! What sort of stern gland do you have? Cutless bearings need to be water cooled, and unless you have a stern gland that has a water feed, it will not get any water flow in the stern tube.
Normally the cutless housing (sorry can't think of the real name for this) is removed, and then the cutless removed from it (unless it is a P-bracket arrangement, in which case ignore me!).
Yes the prop will need to come off.
If there is a housing on the exit to the stern tube, and the stern tube enters the hull then no I would not expect the bearing to be pushed up! What sort of stern gland do you have? Cutless bearings need to be water cooled, and unless you have a stern gland that has a water feed, it will not get any water flow in the stern tube.
Normally the cutless housing (sorry can't think of the real name for this) is removed, and then the cutless removed from it (unless it is a P-bracket arrangement, in which case ignore me!).
Yes the prop will need to come off.
ColinHuggins
N/A
For my skeg-supported stern gear they pulled the prop off, then unbolted the 'tube' and slid it off the shaft. Inside the old cutlass bearing was burned onto the wall and had to be ground out. A new one was fitted and new bolts made up as the old ones were waspish. It's all back together, no probs, only damage was to my wallet!
Koeketiene
Well-Known Member
Out of idle curiosity - how much?
Recently had same inflicted upon my wallet - £1.2K
Recently had same inflicted upon my wallet - £1.2K
nedmin
Well-Known Member
If they do its a bum job and could cause problems.ie noise.
Medskipper
Well-Known Member
The shaft can be removed and then the bearing pressed out, new one in and then shaft back. Some yards have a better tool which will press the bearing out whilst the shaft is still in place, but in both cases the prop must be removed.
Barry
Barry
Topcat47
Well-Known Member
I removed the prop and housing myself. To remove the cutless bearing and replace it cost ~ £150. I replaced the housing and prop. Even having an engineer do it, I can't imagine it costing £1k unless the tube was damaged.
G
Guest
Guest
[ QUOTE ]
Is it true that when a yard replaces a cutlass bearing they take the prop off then use a tubular drift over the shaft to push the bearing up the shaft into the tube and leave it there?
[/ QUOTE ]
That does not sound right. You said push the bearing UP the shaft and leave it there.
The old bearing can not be left on the shaft. Am I understanding you correctly that the old bearing is somehow relocated far enough up that they can fit a new piece of cutlass bearing astern of it.
Is it true that when a yard replaces a cutlass bearing they take the prop off then use a tubular drift over the shaft to push the bearing up the shaft into the tube and leave it there?
[/ QUOTE ]
That does not sound right. You said push the bearing UP the shaft and leave it there.
The old bearing can not be left on the shaft. Am I understanding you correctly that the old bearing is somehow relocated far enough up that they can fit a new piece of cutlass bearing astern of it.
LadyInBed
Well-Known Member
That was the impression I got from a conversation I was having with a couple of people - it didn't sound right to me, hence the question.
This boat's prop comes out of a skeg, I hope that the rudder won't have to come off, I think that there is enough clearance with the rudder hard over. I haven't looked to see if there is access to get at the cutlass bearing via the shaft tube, I can't imagine that there would be.
I did the job on my last boat, long keel and transom hung rudder. Rudder off, prop shaft out and ground out the old cutlass bearing. Undoing the bolts on the flexible coupling was the hardest part.
This boat's prop comes out of a skeg, I hope that the rudder won't have to come off, I think that there is enough clearance with the rudder hard over. I haven't looked to see if there is access to get at the cutlass bearing via the shaft tube, I can't imagine that there would be.
I did the job on my last boat, long keel and transom hung rudder. Rudder off, prop shaft out and ground out the old cutlass bearing. Undoing the bolts on the flexible coupling was the hardest part.
G
Guest
Guest
OK. I would be very worried about someone just pushing the old piece up. The main reason is that there would not be any location ability other than leaning down onto the end of the new one.
Most cutlass bearings have grooves that are narrower than the bearing part. If the old and the new did not align correctly there would be no water flow possible up to the inboard end.
Sounds like a cheap fix. I agree that boat are in general not built for easy shaft work. Some have retaining screws for the bearing embedded under the glass or fairing. Of course without prior knowledge of their location they are hard to discover. Same with some rudders. Once they stopped putting cutaways in the rudder for the prop and had straight rudder leading edges these jobs got suddenly worse. Take care of rudder removal we knew of one person that tried to "catch" his rudder, all he caught was the next ambulance to the hospital.
Most cutlass bearings have grooves that are narrower than the bearing part. If the old and the new did not align correctly there would be no water flow possible up to the inboard end.
Sounds like a cheap fix. I agree that boat are in general not built for easy shaft work. Some have retaining screws for the bearing embedded under the glass or fairing. Of course without prior knowledge of their location they are hard to discover. Same with some rudders. Once they stopped putting cutaways in the rudder for the prop and had straight rudder leading edges these jobs got suddenly worse. Take care of rudder removal we knew of one person that tried to "catch" his rudder, all he caught was the next ambulance to the hospital.
