Cutlass bearing

Nina Lucia

Nina Lucia

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Friend of mine trying to replace cutlass bearing on his 30 years old Finish build Kings Cruiser 29.
Its very unusual setting, looks like that there is a oval end where prop shaft comes out, but we can't unscrew, tried with heat... no luck...

Trying to insert photo of that but I don't know how, or even if I can insert photos from iPhone...
Thanks so much
 
Not easy to help without a picture. If you click on "go advanced" you should then find the option to "manage attachments". Are you trying to remove the bronze fitting that has the cutlass bearing in it? Best not to do that but to extract the cutlass bearing by releasing any grub screws in the side then making a puller to extract the cutlass after you have withdrawn the shaft.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
Re: Cutlass Bearing

Here it is, just managed to upload,
How this one work?
Very unusual....
Thanks
 

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Re: Cutlass Bearing

Judging by the teeth marks on the round bit it is threaded & unscrews with the help of large stillsons - are you sure its is a cutlass bearing ? it could be a plain bearing inside.
Jim
 
Re: Cutlass Bearing

No we are not sure if it is cutlass bearing, still how to replace it as has abit of woble?
 
Re: Cutlass Bearing

Looking at the close up it looks like a metal (bronze) close to the shaft with little room for water to exit the bearing.

This suggests to me that it might be a greased white metal bearing, is there a greaser in the boat? or it could also have been an oil filled system with oil seals at the aft end. For a water lubricated and cooled bearing you would expect to see water channels. I'm guessing there is no water feed to the stern tube in the boat? What is on the inside?

If it has had a white metal bearing it is possible to get these made at a machine shop or they can be replaced with composites and still run on grease or oil. If you want to change it to a water lubricated bearing that's also possible, it's best to have a water feed and the bearing supplier would need to know the carrier ID and the shaft OD. The new bearing can be glued in with epoxy. Cleaning out the old white metal if that's what it is could be tricky.
 
Re: Cutlass Bearing

Thanks Neil,
Yes, there's a greaser on the boat,
And there is not water feed to the sten tube.
What will be the way to change to water cooled bearing?
Thanks so much,
My mate will really appreciate all your help.
Best regards
 
Re: Cutlass Bearing

Yep, tried, left and right with masive grips and blow torch!
And didn't work
Amateurs, I know!
 
Re: Cutlass Bearing

I have seen a few cutlass bearing but not one like that and agree with others it must screw off.

However I hate to be the one to tell you but you may end up having to get the shaft out, IF it's water cooled you will then be able to see the slots in the cutlass bearing

Are you sure 100% there is not an Allan screw in the cutlass housing which also secures it.

Another idea is talk to Count Rose in Birmingham they make cutlass bearing and are very helpfull and may be able to advise you but also send pictures
http://www.countrose.com/content/index.asp

Last option after taking the shaft out would be to cut the bearing with a saw inside to collapse it to get it out, BUT check first all dimentions etc
also as you take the shaft out mic up the shaft where it is in the cutlass bearing to check if it is worn against the rest of the shaft dia, I ended up having to get a new shaft also

PS Don't overheat it ! IF it is water cooled with slots you may melt it or distort the water cooling slots

Good luck
Mike
 
Re: Cutlass Bearing

As there is a greaser inside it is almost certainly not water cooled. If screwing down the greaser forces grease out then it proves the matter. If it is screwed in then good design would be for it to unscrew in the opposite direction to the forward rotation of the shaft. I would try heat again, being careful to heat the bracket, whilst keeping the bearing cool with water, then try the stilson wrench again. It has clearly been attacked with a wrench in the past as there appears to be paint in the grooves made by one. If an adhesive such as Loctite has been used to fit the bearing it needs to be heated close to boiling point to soften it.
 
Just bought a Kings cruiser with a wobbly propshaft and before digging into it I came across this thread and was wondering if there was any conclusion on what type of bearing is in the stern tube and if anyone has successfully repaired one?
 
Mine needs a new bearing too. I've read the thread also and mine has a greaser in the boat. My dad said it was water cooled which is why it drips water in every so often. Infact it drips too much water and apparently i need to replace the stern tube packing. When i put the boat to bed i have to pack it with grease to stop it dripping. If anyone can let us know how to change the bearing on the Kings Cruiser 29 that would be great.
 
Welcome both

Think the answer is on post#8. Looks like a greased stern tube with a white metal lining. It is not strictly water cooled like a fluted rubber cutless bearing but water does enter the tube and you need packing at the inboard end to stop water getting into the boat. The packing does need water to keep it cool so may drip a bit.

It is not a common arrangement and post#8 is a good suggestion to replace the outer bearing with a composite one but you need to bore the old white metal lining out first.
 
Thanks guys, any idea how to remove the bearing? I've seen a couple of pictures of the galled stern tube end with stilson teeth marks in it and from the previous posts heating and wrenching doesn't shift it. Was hoping to see if anyone was successful in removing this part or if it's solid and part of the stern tube.
 
Is it a left hand thread? I would suspect that there may indeed be an Allen grub screw or some locking device incorporated . Worth a close inspection of the main body perhaps!
OOPS. Missed previous posts re LH thread!
 
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Sadly I think it may be oval due to wear (or stilson damage??) You will have to remove the shaft and probably destroy the bearing. Saw up inside and cut one side through to allow it to collapse. Definitely look carefully for grub screws first.
The way to release a pipe joint like this would be to ring it, deadweight one side, heavy hammer the other, and work all round.
 
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