Cutlass Bearing Replacement- Am I being Screwed!!!!

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statgar

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After being struck by a whale last year off Leuca, Italy, (the Whale was fine BTW) I had to have some emergency repairs carried out on my port side prop. Once done the boat performed fine with no vibrations and matched fuel consumption, however I thought it prudent to have both props re-pitched and balanced while my Fairline P46 (2007 650 hours) was ashore for antifoul etc. I have tested both shafts and they turn easily with no serious movement in the cutlass bearings although the port side was showing some signs of erosion towards the rear. The Volvo agents have advised replacement of both bearings while the props are away for specialist repair. I was OK with this at their quote of 400 eur, now they say that both shafts need to be removed in order to replace the bearings and the labour charge has gone up to 800 eur per side total 1600 eur! Has anyone had any experience of this job, how long do you reckon it should take per shaft?
Thanks in advance of your input.
 
Have just replaced a VETUS cutless bearing for 40mm shaft on my boat.Cutless bearing was around £85.00 pounds.
Not sure of your shaft size but 100mm cutless is around £200. per side.
The prop had never been off the boat before in 10 years,it took around 30 mins to remove split pin,loosen the nut,attach the puller and gently hit prop on the boss to release it.
Needed two of us to release 6 bolts and remove "P" bracket,undo the 4 alan key screws securing the bearing to the P bracket,which was then gently tapped free.
Refitting cutless bearing,attaching and sealing P bracket was much quicker,as was popping the prop back on.
There is quite bit of work involved and can only assume your shafts are being released from gearbox and being drawn.
Took me about half a day .
 
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I would rather the shaft removed than the P bracket took off as once set up its best not to disturb as you can't then re align properly with shaft in situ
 
There is another way......

http://www.strutpro.com

I bought one to do my bearings two years ago. The initial outlay is cheaper than the labour required pulling shafts or removing p brackets. I've done two boats now (my P385 and a friends F43) and it is as easy as the website suggests.

Seriously, seriously recommend it......
 
There should t be a need to remove the P bracket. Asking for trouble there.
It's a fairly straightforward job. Just it can be a nuisance with plenty of patience required if it's been on since new.
I remember having to cut the bearing out an old seamaster 30. That was a pain, but others are usually much simpler.
It's easily achievable by an amateur.
The only thing that might concern me in your case, is that if they are removing the shafts, which is usually necessary, then they will no doubt be needing to set up the alignment again. If this isn't done correctly...more trouble.
 
+1 for Strut Pro, I bought a full yard kit, did two bearings on a Trader in 45 minutes, two out two in.
The props had already been removed which saved me a bit of time.
It doesnt always go that smoothly but less hassle than removing shafts or P Brackets
 
Some strange answers on here.

By removing the P bracket it can be slid off the shaft and the bearing pressed out, 8 bolts on most P brackets , there may be shims under the bracket so make sure they are replaced, can't see why it would be incorrect alignment after.

Take the shafts out, quite easy on a P. 46 as they have split style shaft coupling to the gearbox, undo the cap screws knock the pin out , pull the shaft back, coupling stays on gearbox.
An 07 model sound like it's on the bigger D9 engines so maybe tight for room at the back, at nigh on 10 years old it's getting ready for a check and as it's mm perfect when you slide the shaft back in you will know if it's wrong very easily, a tweak on the rear mounts may be required as it's had a few years to settle .

1600 Euro is a bit steep but it is abroad.
 
rosssavage said:
There is another way......

http://www.strutpro.com

I bought one to do my bearings two years ago. The initial outlay is cheaper than the labour required pulling shafts or removing p brackets. I've done two boats now (my P385 and a friends F43) and it is as easy as the website suggests.

Seriously, seriously recommend it......
Click to expand...

OK - that sounds good but what about the other bearing (in the hull/gland)
How easy is it to get that one replaced?
 
Yeaaaah.... doesn't do that one! Still need to pull the shaft for the inner bearing. Very generally though, it's the p bracket bearing that wears faster, and needs replacing more regularly.

I read the 'both bearings' comment by the OP as port and stbd p bracket bearings only...'both shafts have to be removed'
 
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Volvo Paul,

If you are referring to my post, I said that it would be best to do the alignment again after removing shafts, not P brackets.
 
Being fussy, there would probably be a case for checking alignment after removing P Brackets too...I would be....anyway....
All the best and good luck.
 
Firstly you don't want to remove the "P" bracket, they are a buggger to align and get watertight again, and there is no need.

The Op hit a whale so a substantial under water object. If it was me I would want shafts off for inspection for damage wear and straightness, a spin in a lathe with a clock gauge is a good way of testing straightness especially for a bend at the prop end.

Cutless bearings normally last 4 to 8 years so due a change anyway, there is a full one in the P bracket and a half or full one in the stern tube, if you are drawing the shaft its prudent to replace the stern tube cutless at the same time.

Stern seals can only be inspected with the shaft partially or fully drawn out, these should be inspected and seals replaced at about 7 years, this needs doing. Obviously if the shafts are out this is a good time. Prove water flow to sternseal from the engine.


If the above is being done, draw both shafts, 2 cutless bearings each, inspection or replacement of stern seals and unless perfect of refitting shafts re align engines its not far off price wise.
 
Bandit said:
Firstly you don't want to remove the "P" bracket, they are a buggger to align and get watertight again, and there is no need.

The Op hit a whale so a substantial under water object. If it was me I would want shafts off for inspection for damage wear and straightness, a spin in a lathe with a clock gauge is a good way of testing straightness especially for a bend at the prop end.

Cutless bearings normally last 4 to 8 years so due a change anyway, there is a full one in the P bracket and a half or full one in the stern tube, if you are drawing the shaft its prudent to replace the stern tube cutless at the same time.

Stern seals can only be inspected with the shaft partially or fully drawn out, these should be inspected and seals replaced at about 7 years, this needs doing. Obviously if the shafts are out this is a good time. Prove water flow to sternseal from the engine.


If the above is being done, draw both shafts, 2 cutless bearings each, inspection or replacement of stern seals and unless perfect of refitting shafts re align engines its not far off price wise.
Click to expand...

And hitting a whale will be hitting an under water object ... which of course is paid for by the insurance company ....
 
Great responses as always, thanks to all. I never thought of removing the P bracket and have suggested this to the yard, well done oldgit. The Strutpro looks good I have suggested I underwrite the purchase of one, might be a good investment rosssavage, pity you aren’t in Corfu! Removing the shafts does worry me as I seem to be inviting trouble from alignment to stern gland problems and even earth bonding. You obviously know the boat volvopaul, do you think that the rudders will have to be dropped, I can’t ascertain from my photos. The port side shaft is not twisted at all, no vibration fwd and reverse and the stern glands (inner seals) are the maintenance free type and are working fine the whale impact was quite gentle as I was cruising at 9kts when it came towards me and I immediately put both engines in neutral, success with the stbd but the prt was still in gear, easily done with Volvo EVC controls, I was quite excited at the time! It doesn’t take much to twist bronze prop blades.
 
Very good advice bandit makes me feel more comfortable, point taken about the stern seal, I guess I've had a good run so far and its time to cough up!
 
If the one we are talking about is like this?



then all we do is remove prop, remove the set screws, a piece of scaffold pipe sawn down it's length lay on shaft and place against bearing, and knock it out. Removing the P bracket sounds a bit over the top??

 
statgar said:
Great responses as always, thanks to all. I never thought of removing the P bracket and have suggested this to the yard, well done oldgit. The Strutpro looks good I have suggested I underwrite the purchase of one, might be a good investment rosssavage, pity you aren’t in Corfu! Removing the shafts does worry me as I seem to be inviting trouble from alignment to stern gland problems and even earth bonding. You obviously know the boat volvopaul, do you think that the rudders will have to be dropped, I can’t ascertain from my photos. The port side shaft is not twisted at all, no vibration fwd and reverse and the stern glands (inner seals) are the maintenance free type and are working fine the whale impact was quite gentle as I was cruising at 9kts when it came towards me and I immediately put both engines in neutral, success with the stbd but the prt was still in gear, easily done with Volvo EVC controls, I was quite excited at the time! It doesn’t take much to twist bronze prop blades.
Click to expand...

I would be more worried about re aligning P bracket than refitting shaft, what is there to realign if removing shaft? Surely it goes back in the same as it comes out. I have seen P brackets being installed when I had a factory tour a few years back and looked to me a tricky process although if you have hit something it might be good suggestion to re check alignment anyway
 
Looks easy and cheaper than strutpro! but I think that I am being persuaded to have both shafts out check they are straight and replace the hull bearings at the same time but thanks for the idea
 
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