CT1 or OB1 as a caulk?

[Aeolus]

Has anyone used CT1 or OB1 to caulk a teak deck? I have to make up a small panel (about 35 x 45cm) with caulked teak decking strips and I wondered whether these newer products might work better and/or be easier to apply than the various more traditional products.

 

[Bobc]

I wouldn't use either for caulking. Use calking.

 

[Aeolus]

I wouldn't use either for caulking. Use calking.

Thank you for your reply. Is your advice based on your experience, or that of someone you know, of trying and finding it didn't work - if so, what failed? Or is it just based on a preference for traditional materials?

 

[Hacker]

CT1 and OB1 are adhesive sealants. They aren’t quite as flexible as 290. Traditional caulk is capable of being removed if deck work is required. CT1 removal will create more damage.

 

[geem]

Use TDS. My decks have been caulked with it for 6 years trouble free in the Caribbean mostly

 

[TSB240]

I was talking with a friend today about recaulking our teak deck.
He has been rebuilding a sailing lifeboat for quite a number of years and for small areas similar to yours he has used a mixture of epoxy filled with carbon. It looks just like caulking but is great for durability and seal.
I will be following his advice on my own boat.

 

[vyv_cox]

I have used OB1 as a sealant between wooden panels, not a huge difference from caulking. It seemed to work well, main difference of course is its strong adhesive properties compared with caulking. If this is not a problem it could be worth a try. Good appearance

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

My previous boat started life as an "assemble it yourself" kit. The first owner/ builder was very skillful in his work, but when I had to remove items bolted through the deck, by reason of other work, I found that he had sealed them with a very strong adhesive sealer which actually took lumps of gelcoat with it, when removed.

 

[Bobc]

My previous boat started life as an "assemble it yourself" kit. The first owner/ builder was very skillful in his work, but when I had to remove items bolted through the deck, by reason of other work, I found that he had sealed them with a very strong adhesive sealer which actually took lumps of gelcoat with it, when removed.

That is one good reason not to use CT1 on anything that you might ever want to remove again

 

[Tranona]

I was talking with a friend today about recaulking our teak deck.
He has been rebuilding a sailing lifeboat for quite a number of years and for small areas similar to yours he has used a mixture of epoxy filled with carbon. It looks just like caulking but is great for durability and seal.
I will be following his advice on my own boat.

Be careful about using epoxy for 3 reasons. First it does not like UV, even with the black filler added, can soften in high temperatures and perhaps most importantly it cures rigid so will not flex as the teak expands and contracts. It is really only suitable for thin veneer type applications (2mm or so) and straight seams rather than swept. Caulking like TDS works because it is flexible and adheres well to the sides of the seams, but even then if the planks are thick it is best to use a breaker tape to prevent it from sticking to the bottom so it just flexes in one direction.

I have used epoxy, but under the correct conditions - 2.3mm thick straight strips, and in a cockpit that was under cover all the time the boat was not being used. Excellent result still going strong after 30 odd years. However when I did the deck and coachroof with 4mm in straight strips I used conventional flexible caulking.

 

[geem]

I was talking with a friend today about recaulking our teak deck.
He has been rebuilding a sailing lifeboat for quite a number of years and for small areas similar to yours he has used a mixture of epoxy filled with carbon. It looks just like caulking but is great for durability and seal.
I will be following his advice on my own boat.

It depends how the wood is laid and how thick. If you use thin layers of teak epoxied to a ply substrate then epoxy and carbon works well. If you are using thicker teak laid more conventionally with an adhesive then epoxy between the teak as caulking will cause cracks in the teak as there is nowhere for expansion and contraction.
If you epoxy your teak down and allow expansion gaps between planks periodically then conventional caulking is doing little other than flexing and providing grip. Teak can be slippy without the grippy caulking in between.

 

[SandyP]

FYI there is a spray that dissolves CT1