Costs/strategies to re-rig a 32' ketch?

Can I suggest that before anyone thinks of sending your rigging away as templates for new rigging that you measure each one from top "T" or "eye" down to the lower connector, take a photo of each connector and lastly, mark each original rigging wire with its location. You should also check to see the ammount of adjustment left in the bottle screws as your rigging may have stretched.
PS, Just got a price for new 5mm rigging for my Lm28 which was £425 all fully swaged.

I forgot to add that the reason for measuring before you send you old rigging to a company is to protect against your old rigging going missing in the post.
 
Take the existing off and measure it stretched with a ratchet strap. make sure to use a steel tape and measure from the correct point..

very easy to get quotes on line when you have the lot on a scrap of paper...

take a photo of the measurements and you will have them forever....

As for a 4k boat. I narrowly missed out on one recently that I hummed and hawwed about,,, only after I resaerched it to find that for an additional 3k to 5k I would have had a super 25k boat...

Best of luck with the rejuvination....
 
I replaced the rigging on my 34' cutter five years ago at a cost of £750 plus the cost of dropping and befitting the mast.
I had swaged terminals fitted to the top end of each stay and shroud. I reused most of the StaLok terminals and all but one of the 40 year old bottlescrews.
Offbeat had 13 pieces of standing rigging to replace (fire- and back stays, upper, intermediate and lower shrouds, inner forestay and runners). The rigging is also oversized -7mm and 8mm where 6 and 7mm would be more usual for a boat of her size. Both factors will have added to the cost.
It was an easy enough job to do myself. As always, the measuring and preparation is half the work. A great tip I picked up, probably from this forum, was to make a jig to cut the wire. Just a block of hardish wood that will fit in a vice, with holes drilled through to hold the rigging wire. Then cut a slot at right angles to the holes to hold your hacksaw blade steady while cutting the wires.
Oh, and if you rerig the boat yourself, it's worth buying a rig tension meter. The cheapest one proved fine for me. A PBO test some time back said the scale is not as accurate as the expensive ones, but it gives me a sufficiently reliable test that each stay and shroud is at the same tension and close enough to the recommended tension.
The proof of the pudding is in the eating; four years ago Offbeat's rigging withstood a 60degree knockdown in an unexpected F8 squall. My crew couldn't understand why I had a big grin on my face afterwards. It was because my DIY re-rigging had stood up to the test!
 
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