Cost of re-engine

[Memphis_Chung]

It doesn't rain but it poors.........

I think my MDIIB is on the way out. I have a Marieholm 32 - swedish long keeler - I am keen to know:

1. what are the engine options/merits etc?
2. What sort of budget will these options require?
3. On what points can I negotiate - are there deals to be had?

Thanks Team,

Memphis

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[sailorman]

u may be able to re-engine with another volvo, i belive they can supply "straight" conversions.
or try "beta"

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[Paragon]

FWIW I'm just replacing an MDIIB with a Beta 28Hp in my Fisher 25, would recomend Beta as they have been extremely helpful and their spares are available everywhere and do not have the "prestige" price associated with Volvo spares.

Budget £6-8k approx installed I'd guess and the Bd1005 (28Hp) model shpuld be smoother (3cyls), quieter and more economical than the old Volvo as well as being significantly lighter and physically smaller.

If you need any more info PM me.

HTH

John

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[Jools_of_Top_Cat]

How much is the bare engine?

This figure seems awfully high.

<hr width=100% size=1>Julian

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[greatspirit]

Hi,
Are you sure the engine is dud. Yacht engines are used so little they rarely wear out problems are usually due to corrosion, fuel line crud/air, poor alignment/installation or poor maintenance.
What are your engine symptoms?
Regards
Tim

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[charles_reed]

The only suggestion I'd make is to replace it, if you must, with anything but a Volvo.

Most small diesels on offer are marinised versions of the ubiquitous Kubota industrial engines, excepting Yanmar, whose engines were designed as marine engines and are widely used for industrial work.

On balance I'd go for the Yanmar - ensure you get a 3 cylinder engine, vertical twins are, without exception, unbalanceable. In fact the Yanmar 2GM20 is due to be replaced with a 3-cylinder for that reason amongst others.

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[stretch33]

Bought myself Beta 28 back in Feb, 3300 was price paid, negotiate with them and i'm sure you can get a good deal. Had to buy a couple of extra's one of which was the shallow sump which was 100 quid (If you want shallow sump make sure you order it with engine) l didnt!
Also bought electric fuel pump 40 quid but you may not need this. I am just about finished installing it and all the ancillaries which takes the time
Phil

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[Paragon]

The retail price of the bare engine is £4260-£4844 depending upon gearbox option, then add all the ancilliaries (panel, fuel system renewed from tank, exhaust etc) and that adds another £6-800 ish to it, then add labour, new propeller and you're pretty well there.

I needed a return to the tank installed as well as I previously didn't have a return with the old Volvo, also needed new prop as, unless you have a Volvo, it would appear you need to go LH > RH.

On top of the above of course there is the dreaded VAT to add to the whole lot which can add another grand to the bill! Obviously each deal is different and depends upon what discount you may be able to negotiate.

FWIW I hawked around the main suppliers and got estimates (boat unseen) of about £8k from Volvo & £7.2K from Yanmar. My Beta installation will work out around £6k complete (inc VAT). The installation is neat and tidy and I'm very pleased with the whole affair. Other local owners that have gone the same route seem equally pleased.

Also thinking of Kiwi prop (as per previous post) and just waiting for info to come through now.

Regards

John

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[Memphis_Chung]

Takes time to get oil pressure. Then when motoring at low revs, revs would suddenly drop off to the point where it stops all together. A few more minutes later it will be fine for a few minutes and then it cuts out again. My mechanic says that the fly wheel is barely turning and there is an audible squeek coming from the bearing. He has diagnosed a worn oil pump leading to a bearing seizing. He says that, as it is an engine out job to fix and the oil pumps are no longer available, so is recommending a re-engine - anything else would be delaying the inevitable.

The only thing I dont understand is: if the bearing is seizing - why would the engine turn normally on some occasions?

Dirty fuel/air etc has been ruled out.

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[Memphis_Chung]

Was your previous engine a volvo - was much work required to fit in a Beta?

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[maxi]

I have just replaced my MDIIB with a fully marinised new Kubota 28, same as Beta but at £1400 in total !!. Conversion of the mounts to fit the Volvo spacing consisted of approx 4' of second hand angle iron drilled with 6 18mm holes, so free to all intents & purposes. Otherwise a very easy conversion for this non-engineer, taking 3 days from start to finish.

Am totally pleased with the results, lighter, smoother, quieter, faster, NO SMOKE, etc etc. On my 32 footer I went for a 16x 11 propeller which is too fierce, 4 knts at tickover and hull speed at 1500rpm - my own silly fault.

As a bonus, sold the MDIIB with no trouble at all.

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[NigeCh]

Not quite right ...

Yanmar diesels for boats are marinised versions of the rice huller diesel developed in 1947 - Nothing much in the GM series has changed since then .... and they are, with respect to Volvo, Nanni, Kubota etc, still far more efficient: ie a 1GM10 at 75% power driving a fixed 13x12 2 blade euro-pattern propellor uses 0.72 litres of diesel per hour.

When the time comes to replace my Yanmar then I'd go for a Beta .... WHY? Because Betas are over 9 bB quieter than Yanmars in a properly acoustically insulated engine compartment.



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[greatspirit]

Try a second opinion from another mechanic

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[rex]

I am surprised that after a bearing seizing to the extent it stalls a running engine the engine happily re-starts a few minutes later. Has it done this repeatedly? It may be worth taking the gearbox off and see what happens. When you say it takes time to build up oil pressure how long and what pressure hot and cold? Are you sure it isn't a fuel starvation/air problem? I would also recommend a second opinion from another engineer before doing anything. Good luck.

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[Memphis_Chung]

You've hit the nail on the head. I thougt it sounded like dirty fuel in the tank.

We explored dirty fuel, fuel starvation, air, filters etc etc.

There was a problem indicated by the oil pressure light - I noticed when we started the engine to motor up the harbour - it stayed on for a few minutes after the engine was started and then went out.

My mechanic tried to turn the engine over by hand and with the crank and struggled to do it. He says it did start but it was very sluggish. This was accompanied by a "whine" from the direction of the bearing.

I asked him about the intermittance - he thinks that once the engine is off, things cool off and free up - hence it wouldnt work 2 minutes after cutting out but it would work after 5.

The problem is I am in a small marina and with a very reliable mechanic. He has had excellent recommedations and I need to keep him/them onside. I have had long conversations with the previous owners about repair v replace and we agree that, given a great deal of money has already been spent on the engine (in the 1000s), a re-engine needs to be seriously considered (also given the bearing fix is an engine out job anyway).

At the end of the day, I am having to take the mechanics word on it. If there was a reliable mechanic Chichester way, I wouldd love toget a 2nd opinion.





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