HappyHurley
Member
Has anyone used a professional to do this recently ?
My guesstimate would be £500 [22'], but I could be way off for the Solent area...
My guesstimate would be £500 [22'], but I could be way off for the Solent area...
Cost of New Standing+Running Rigging
- Thread starter HappyHurley
- Start date
RobBrown
Well-Known Member
It was about £800-900 for my 9m boat 2-3 years ago.
That was professional work in Solent (Aladdin Riggers)
That was professional work in Solent (Aladdin Riggers)
HappyHurley
Member
Sheeesh. That was with the special titanium wire, right ? 
Georgio
Well-Known Member
If you can get the mast down and remove all the rigging yourself, take to a rigger for replacement like-for-like and then re-dress the mast yourself (an easy job BTW) it should cost you less than £500.
Fantasie 19
Well-Known Member
Just had the standing rigging on my 19' boat done - £350 with Chris Holman rigging at Chichester Marina..
I had to take mast down, he took it away replaced rigging brought it back, and then I had to put it back up again...
Work quality and comm's were excellent...
I had to take mast down, he took it away replaced rigging brought it back, and then I had to put it back up again...
Work quality and comm's were excellent...
BruceDanforth
Well-Known Member
Not done the whole rigging but took the mast down on my Hurley and replaced the forestay. You've got a mast in a tabernacle, easily lowered by a working party or cheaply in Gosport Boatyard??
You've got the baby shrouds held on by a couple of 19mm? bolts and all the rest is held on with pins with a ring/ split pin through them. If you take 'em all off and bundle them off to Jimmy Green they will measure and duplicate them and send you back replacements.
For the running rigging I've so far replaced the headsail halyard (the frayed forestay cut through it and it dropped down the mast). I moused a line through using the coax for the aerial which needed replacing using whipping twine, but you could just firmly tie and gaffer tape a length of twine to the old halyards then pull the twine through, then gaffer tape new ropes to the twine and carefully pull through.
You should be able to do the whole lot yourself saving a packet. Ask around your neighbours for more advice / help on the day.
gasdave
Well-Known Member
My local rigger near Edinburgh (RigIt) has just replaced all standing rigging and screws on my 8m boat for £485, including removal and fitting (with the mast down).
Friendly excellent service and advice too.
Friendly excellent service and advice too.
William_H
Well-Known Member
Rigging
if you are concerned about cost (and who isn't?) don't play this game of giving it to a professional to do the lot. Halyards should be replaced as and when needed usually from chafing and damage to the rope. use the old halyard to pull through a replacement.
The stay wires are critical if they are old. However the most concern is the side stays both cap shrouds and intermediate shrouds. As said remove the shrouds either one at a time using a halyard to substitute or remove the mast. Use the old rigging screws it is the wire that is the main problem. It fails at the swage.
Assuming you sail with the jib halyard taking most of the forestay load then the forestay is not so critical.
A few weeks back my forestay became detatched and the halyard/jib held the mast up until it could be reconnected. A bit scary but shows that a forestay failure is not such a big deal. I hae a high field lever in the forestay so it was easy to reconnect. It had a clevis pin at the deck which just dissapeared. no idea why. It would have been a disaster a few minutes earlier with jib down and spinnacker going berserk.
Similarly backstay is not so critical as mainsail and main sheet tend to hold the mast back.
I have never seen a baby forestay fail though failure could kill the mast if you were driving really hard.
So just start with side stays any failure of which will kill the mast so quick then do the inner forestay forestay then backstay in that order but possibly later with everything else done on a as needed basis.
good luck olewill
if you are concerned about cost (and who isn't?) don't play this game of giving it to a professional to do the lot. Halyards should be replaced as and when needed usually from chafing and damage to the rope. use the old halyard to pull through a replacement.
The stay wires are critical if they are old. However the most concern is the side stays both cap shrouds and intermediate shrouds. As said remove the shrouds either one at a time using a halyard to substitute or remove the mast. Use the old rigging screws it is the wire that is the main problem. It fails at the swage.
Assuming you sail with the jib halyard taking most of the forestay load then the forestay is not so critical.
A few weeks back my forestay became detatched and the halyard/jib held the mast up until it could be reconnected. A bit scary but shows that a forestay failure is not such a big deal. I hae a high field lever in the forestay so it was easy to reconnect. It had a clevis pin at the deck which just dissapeared. no idea why. It would have been a disaster a few minutes earlier with jib down and spinnacker going berserk.
Similarly backstay is not so critical as mainsail and main sheet tend to hold the mast back.
I have never seen a baby forestay fail though failure could kill the mast if you were driving really hard.
So just start with side stays any failure of which will kill the mast so quick then do the inner forestay forestay then backstay in that order but possibly later with everything else done on a as needed basis.
good luck olewill
seanfoster
Well-Known Member
There was a similar thread to this a while back (probably over a year ago) and someone recommended a stainless steel supplier called s3i http://www.s3i.co.uk/
I used them to replace a forestay and the service was very good, costs appear to be a fair bit less than riggers. (you can get a price online). I'm going to replace the rest later this year.
If you have the original shrouds and can measure accurately then you shouldn't have a problem, but if you are unsure then I would rely on the experience of a professional rigger.
I used them to replace a forestay and the service was very good, costs appear to be a fair bit less than riggers. (you can get a price online). I'm going to replace the rest later this year.
If you have the original shrouds and can measure accurately then you shouldn't have a problem, but if you are unsure then I would rely on the experience of a professional rigger.
HappyHurley
Member
Have just been quoted an eye watering [approximate, if no problems] £1,000 for replacement of 4mm from a Hamble based rigging company. They want the boat in the water and the mast down.
Time on the water is more important to me, rather than cost, but people taking the pee in the midst of a recession doesn't sit well either...
Time on the water is more important to me, rather than cost, but people taking the pee in the midst of a recession doesn't sit well either...
sailorman
Well-Known Member
Try
http://www.atlanticrigging.co.uk/
he is a forumite as well. i am sure he would make up & send to you.
your quote included his annual holiday
Tranona
Well-Known Member
The bit you really need done by the rigger is making up the shrouds and terminals - unless you are using expensive Sta Lok fittings. So take your mast down yourself, remove the rigging, take them to the rigger and have exact replacements made. Then re-fit yourself. The main thing you lose this way is the rigger inspecting all the rest of the mast and rigging.
Remember whatever you buy or have done on an old cheap boat is disproportionate to its value as the cost is the same as for a new boat. A new 22 footer would be £30k so a professional re-rig is less than 5% of boat value compared to 25% or more on a 30 year old boat!
Remember whatever you buy or have done on an old cheap boat is disproportionate to its value as the cost is the same as for a new boat. A new 22 footer would be £30k so a professional re-rig is less than 5% of boat value compared to 25% or more on a 30 year old boat!
Fantasie 19
Well-Known Member
ianj99
Well-Known Member
What price a dismasting and potential consequences ? ....a lot more than a grand..
Twister_Ken
Well-Known Member
Paid just shy of £1K for my 28' inc mast out and in.
Forestay (inc foil off and back on). Split backstay. Caps. Fore and aft lowers. New toggles and bottlescrews. Set-up.
Forestay (inc foil off and back on). Split backstay. Caps. Fore and aft lowers. New toggles and bottlescrews. Set-up.
VicMallows
Well-Known Member
Have been investigating this in some detail for my Sadler29 (7mm rigging, except 8mm forestay). About £750 for the made-up rigging and £160 for basic mast unstep/restep....me doing the rest. So pretty much in line with Ken's figure.
If only I could hire a roller-swaging machine I could source the wire/fittings for half the rigging cost .... and would be happier doing the work myself !!
Vic
Ubergeekian
Well-Known Member
I looked over a Victoria 26 in Scotland which had 8 year old rigging. I asked SRS for a replacement quote - they looked up their records and found they'd made the rigging on her for £800. I was told to expect £850 or so. Confirms the ball park, I think.
