Corvette 32 - A tale of one owner’s upgrade

superheat6k said:
then scrub gently with a stiff hand brush along the grain
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Controversial Trev.

I was taught to clean teak decks with a sponge not a brush, unless really bad, in which case scrubbing should be across the grain, this tends to remove the higher wood grain and keep it flat. Scrubbing along the grain takes out the soft wood between the winter growth hence should be across. I guess it depends on whether the teak is qtr sawn or not, if not then anything goes. My new boat has a new teak deck, 9mm thick, qtr sawn, not sure of my plans to keep it clean yet.

TCM wrote up about scrubbing teak decks on here years ago.
 
burgundyben said:
.


TCM wrote up about scrubbing teak decks on here years ago.
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TCM was all for a sorta swooshiness with an unscratchy, moppy thing but otherwise broadly as per superheat. For regular cleaning I always tried to avoid any abrasion, letting the chemicals (principally oxalic acid) do the work with lots of water.

But he did write it up brilliantly.

Did also sand on occasion, but - again 9mm teak - wouldn't dare touch 3mm with a machine sander, for fear of ending up with a boat suffering from YMS*



* Young Man Syndrome = a flipping mess, consequential on over-enthusiasm :)
 
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I shall be interested to see how the semco works out. I tried various products but ended up preferring to leave the teak bare and just clean it with two-part cleaner twice a year.
 
benjenbav said:
TCM was all for a sorta swooshiness with an unscratchy, moppy thing but otherwise broadly as per superheat. For regular cleaning I always tried to avoid any abrasion, letting the chemicals (principally oxalic acid) do the work with lots of water.

Did also sand on occasion, but - again 9mm teak - wouldn't dare touch 3mm with a machine sander.

But he did write it up brilliantly.
Click to expand...

Yes, I remember TCM's tome on maintaining teak. Made sense and I avoid scrubbing with the grain wherever possible and where it is unavoidable I try to be very gentle with a very soft brush.

I have the invoice from Brooms for the replacement teak on our boat which was (thankfully) done by a previous owner. Being Brooms it is all teak (11mm is in my mind but may be wrong) but it is not an invoice I would want to have to pay so I aim to take care of it!! :)
 
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burgundyben said:
Controversial Trev.

I was taught to clean teak decks with a sponge not a brush, unless really bad, in which case scrubbing should be across the grain, this tends to remove the higher wood grain and keep it flat. Scrubbing along the grain takes out the soft wood between the winter growth hence should be across. I guess it depends on whether the teak is qtr sawn or not, if not then anything goes. My new boat has a new teak deck, 9mm thick, qtr sawn, not sure of my plans to keep it clean yet.

TCM wrote up about scrubbing teak decks on here years ago.
Click to expand...
The brush I used was a soft domestic hand brush, and it was simply to agitate the first part cleaner into the grain, and brushing across would not have worked on a deck so dirty. After the initial rinse I used a soft deck scrubber just to spread the neutraliser around. What came off was a black slurry not wood flakes or splinters. The effort required was not too bad considering the area I had to cover (approx 10sq metres).

As I mentioned I doubt the boat has ever experienced a hard frost and now it will experience colder weather I wanted to get the grain sealed, as I suspect it is the cold winter frosts that kills surface sodden teak decks.

Semco claims to UV seal the deck and lock in the golden colour. I will re-coat if we ever get a dry day again (I hope it is compatible with Patio Magic). When the rain does stop the deck certainly dries off much faster. If I had a new teak deck I would treat it with Semco from the off.
 
Semco is good and it lasts well where not exposed to the elements e.g. in a cockpit. We found it did much of the season on external decks but not the whole season and I am not sure that simply re-sealing without another go with the two part cleaners would have worked. We have left ours unsealed as we prefer the natural silver/grey look that comes on with time.
 
Well, I do think your decks looked fab in the "after" pix and I hope you can make many happy memories from your stewardship of such a fine craft.
 
Your Corvette looks wonderful Trevor - like new again!

Corvette%2032%20advertisement_zpsjc0ovt2y.jpg
 
Its been a while since I updated my slow but steady progress with Boadicea.

However, today I achieved a milestone on my galley refurbishment. The teak edge trim and teak shelf above the worktop and just below the window are still being varnished, so will be a couple of weeks yet before it is fully finished.

This is the second boat I have used Corian imitation worktop, Apollo Magna on, and I love the stuff. Not bad for £86 per 3m sheet, I have enough left over to sort the work surface in the fwd heads.





I am thinking about router cutting some drainer grooves to the right side of the sink, but I am worried I will mess it all up.
 
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superheat6k said:
Its been a while since I updated my slow but steady progress with Boadicea.

However, today I achieved a milestone on my galley refurbishment. The teak edge trim and teak shelf above the worktop and just below the window are still being varnished, so will be a couple of weeks yet before it is fully finished.

This is the second boat I have used Corian imitation worktop, Apollo Magna on, and I love the stuff. Not bad for £86 per 3m sheet, I have enough left over to sort the work surface in the fwd heads.





I am thinking about router cutting some drainer grooves to the right side of the sink, but I am worried I will mess it all up.
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Looks good. Where did you get the Corian from. I'm being quoted silly prices.
 
The supplier I used was Sheridan.

If you can use a company email and as though you're selling it on to someone else. It was quoted at £192 per sheet inc delivery less 50% discount. The style I have used is 'Coffee'.

It is delivered by Sheridan themselves as a plain sheet, one side is finished, and it is quite heavy. Make sure you specify you only want the 6mm laminate layer. Delivery was about 2 weeks.

It works easily with fine toothed jigsaw blades and a sharp laminate trimmer bit in the router. The final trimming on board leaves the boat looking like there has been a snowstorm. Ideally a second person holding the vac nozzle next to the tool is required. It is better to do the cutting in situ, although I made an MDF pattern. I strapped the pattern to the top when I moved it to the boat. It is quite brittle and cracks easily across narrow strips. I bedded it onto PU adhesive sealant, eg Sika 291.

http://www.sheridan-uk.com/worktops/apollo-magna/

Jimmy - thanks for the jig reference.
 
T - understandably you don't want to spoil such a lovely piece of work (and I'm sure you wouldn't :) ), but if you don't go down JTB's jig direction, then a piece of non-slip mesh material draped over the edge into the sink will act as a capillary mat and remove any water from clean crocks and pans off the work surface.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/DIY-Tool...8&qid=1486284048&sr=1-2&keywords=non+slip+mat


PS. It also stops the wine glasses sliding all over the place..... so two wins for the price of one.
 
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