Or if you do have enough leverage - that you shear them and end up in a world of inaccessible grief. The threads are in an oily location, so you are in with a decent chance. I'd start by trying to nip them up a tiny bit to see if they will budge at all.I'd wonder if the bolts securing the sump are not corroded solid and you simply will not have room to get enough leverage on the bolts
No, the sulfur content of oil is small and in the form of ZDTP, which would not corrode steel. Even after oil becomes acidic due to long-term use the acid is organic and will not corrode steel. It looks to me that your corrosion can only have been caused by seawater. What is the open ended hose I can see adjacent to the rust?Looking at the oil stain on the bottom of the sump , most of the corrosion seems to be in the front LHS where the oil ran down . I'm wondering if Sulpher in the oil causes it be acidic when in contact with air? I have changed the oil ever season since I bought the boat in 2016 and use the grade of oil specified in the workshop manual .
Yes , there is some water from time to time, Generally just a cup full or so and I wipe it up. I think that it happens if the Coolant is well topped up and the Engine gets a hard run in a seaway . I think that it comes out through the overflow tube on the heat exchanger.Strange one.
If sea water had dripped / dribbled down from somewhere, it would have ended up as a puddle in the bilge under the motor.
Bilge is spotless under the sump pan.
How can that be?
Coolant contains a corrosion inhibitor so I doubt it. Looks like seawater to me.Yes , there is some water from time to time, Generally just a cup full or so and I wipe it up. I think that it happens if the Coolant is well topped up and the Engine gets a hard run in a seaway . I think that it comes out through the overflow tube on the heat exchanger.
I suppose that this could be the cause of the rust as it does tend to drip down the LHS of the engine. Ill put in a bottle to collect it as someone suggested.
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