Correct oil for Nanni engine

Poey50

Poey50

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I'm about to the proud owner of a Sadler 32. Diesel is a bit of a mystery to me having been involved only with 2-stroke outboards for the past 15 years. The engine on the Sadler is a Nanni 3.30 29hp and I am looking into what engine oil to get. Nanni recommends '15W-40, API CF mini'. (I've no idea what the 'mini' refers to.)

I came across dire warnings about not using synthetic oils on this site ...

https://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Oilforyachtengines.aspxso

... so I'd be grateful for advice on what reasonably available oil would suit.
 
"Mini" not being a common term for oil specs it most probably is a typo for Mineral (as opposed to synthetic).

The engine is based on Kubota 05 series for which Kubota just state "Specification CJ-4, CI-4, CH-4"
 
Poey50 said:
I'm about to the proud owner of a Sadler 32. Diesel is a bit of a mystery to me having been involved only with 2-stroke outboards for the past 15 years. The engine on the Sadler is a Nanni 3.30 29hp and I am looking into what engine oil to get. Nanni recommends '15W-40, API CF mini'. (I've no idea what the 'mini' refers to.)

I came across dire warnings about not using synthetic oils on this site ...

https://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Oilforyachtengines.aspxso

... so I'd be grateful for advice on what reasonably available oil would suit.
Click to expand...
My 4150HE has had the cheapest 15> 40 i can get since i installed it new 1400 hrs ago
last change i used semi synthetic from ebay
$_12.JPG
 
Spi D said:
"Mini" not being a common term for oil specs it most probably is a typo for Mineral (as opposed to synthetic).

The engine is based on Kubota 05 series for which Kubota just state "Specification CJ-4, CI-4, CH-4"
Click to expand...
Nanni is continental (a mix of French and Italian?), 'mini' is often short for 'minimum', like we use 'min'.
Sounds like Kubota want decent modern oil with proper additives, not the dodgy stuff from French supermarkets a lot of people enthuse about on here.
 
I assume that current Nanni engines have a modern specification that includes hardened crankshaft, camshaft and tappets and modern insert piston rings. Their additive requirement is therefore rather higher than that of older engines. However, a 29 HP engine in a Sadler 32 is not going to be over-stressed, just the opposite, so you need to be careful of using oils with a high TBN, particularly now that diesel sulphur levels are so low. I agree that the 'mini' probably means minimum, which supports what I have just written. I would be looking for an oil that complies with API CI-4 but personally I would never use one with a viscosity lower than 15w-40. Lower viscosities are specified for fuel economy reasons at the expense of longevity.
 
vyv_cox said:
.....personally I would never use one with a viscosity lower than 15w-40. Lower viscosities are specified for fuel economy reasons at the expense of longevity.
Click to expand...

Would you consider a 10w40? I think most people would agree the 40 is not negotiable downwards. A lower w number is good for starting and getting oil around the motor quickly. But maybe it drains down more?
In the world of bikes, 10w60 oil seems to be gaining popularity for some bikes, particularly things like v twins once they have been run in.
Personally I stick to brands I trust as well as the spec, never heard of Sailorman's ebay bargain, so wouldn't touch it except perhaps for an old car I didn't care about.
What you save on bargain brands won't buy you a sump gasket let alone a crankshaft or piston.
 
lw395 said:
Would you consider a 10w40? I think most people would agree the 40 is not negotiable downwards. A lower w number is good for starting and getting oil around the motor quickly. But maybe it drains down more?
In the world of bikes, 10w60 oil seems to be gaining popularity for some bikes, particularly things like v twins once they have been run in.
Personally I stick to brands I trust as well as the spec, never heard of Sailorman's ebay bargain, so wouldn't touch it except perhaps for an old car I didn't care about.
What you save on bargain brands won't buy you a sump gasket let alone a crankshaft or piston.
Click to expand...

The first figure, 10, 15, 25 etc is the viscosity of the base oil. The second figure is achieved with VI improvers. Although it would seem that there is little to choose between, say, a 10w-40 and a 15w-40 once both are at working temperature, when the oils age the VI improvers tend to break down, favouring the heavier base oil. I recall reading an internal report describing tests running identical engines flat out for a period that I think was 60 hours. Wear in the one on 25w-50 was undetectable, slight in the 15w-40 and the 10w-40 ran its big ends part way through the test.

These were older engines, probably with unhardened crankshafts and copper-lead bearings, so not representative of modern high performance production. I doubt that many yacht engines fall into the high performance category and I know that current Volvo D2-40 construction is little better than it was in engines 40 years old. I suspect that the Kubota engines of Nanni and Beta are somewhat better but my preference is still to avoid low viscosities.
 
lw395 said:
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-89726-m...40-gasoline-or-diesel-mineral-engine-oil.aspx

Curious to know what Vyv thinks.
I prefer to go with a proper brand name rather than a retailer.
You could also see what eurocarparts or gsf or your local factor has on offer.
Click to expand...

Motul is a brand, although it must be 50 years since I saw any of their products or advertising. The TBN is low enough so on paper it looks OK. I agree about the 'proper' brand name though, too many companies recovering oil today and who do you contact if things go wrong? Shell's lubricant helpdesk will always advise and help where they can, doubt if the same can be said for Motul or Opie.
 
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