correct main jet for a Suzuki DF2.5 outboard?

Ian_Edwards

Ian_Edwards

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Hi,

Can anyone help me select the correct main jet for a Suzuki DF2.5 outboard?

The serial number of the outboard is: 00251E-982102

I can find list of the part numbers here: http://outboardparts1.com/suz/11/5a.pdf

But as you can see there are 8 different part numbers:

3-1 09491-68006 .JET, MAIN (68) 0 1 OPT
3-2 09491-70018 .JET, MAIN (70) 0 1
3-3 09491-72015 .JET, MAIN (72) 0 1 OPT
3-4 09491-62009 .JET, MAIN (62) 0 1 MODEL:07~
3-4 09491-62009 0 OPT
3-5 09491-64003 .JET, MAIN (64) 0 1 MODEL:07~
3-6 09491-66005 .JET, MAIN (66) 0 1 MODEL:07~
3-6 09491-66005 0 OPT

I have no idea which is three correct one to buy!
The screw driver slot in the brass has become damage, so it is now very difficult to remove the jet to clean it when water gets into the carburettor.
These jets are comparatively cheap to buy, much cheaper than buying a whole new carburettor.
 
The numbers in brackets would appear to indicate a range of jet orifice sizes. Have a very close look at your jet and see if it has any indication marked on it. Failing all I would probably buy the middle size and see how it compared under a microscope.

(just my approach....certainly no sort of expert)
 
Vic (s),
Thanks for the very useful posts, I don’t have the outboard at home, but it could easily be an F and not an E in the serial number, and it is a 2009 model.
I guess the numbers #62, #64 and #66 relate to the jet size, so the #64 is the standard. The other two being slightly larger and small jets respectively.
I’ll order a 09491-64003 ▪ Main Jet #64 and see how it goes.
 
Ian_Edwards said:
Vic (s),
Thanks for the very useful posts, I don’t have the outboard at home, but it could easily be an F and not an E in the serial number, and it is a 2009 model.
I guess the numbers #62, #64 and #66 relate to the jet size, so the #64 is the standard. The other two being slightly larger and small jets respectively.
I’ll order a 09491-64003 ▪ Main Jet #64 and see how it goes.
Click to expand...

It's surprising that you have damaged slot so badly in such a short time.

Firstly use a screw driver that fits the slot perfectly and has a correctly ground tip, not some old thing that been misused for generations and is all rounded off.

Secondly perhaps you can improve on the fuel storage and handling so that you don't have to keep removing it.

My main outboard is 27 years old and I have never touched the carb. I filter all fuel that is not fresh from a filling station as it goes in the tank. In bad weather I lightly tie a plastic bag over the cap and vent so that rain or spray cannot get in.
 
Vic,
There are there are several reasons why the slot on the jet has been damaged in just a couple of years.
The first is the stability of the SEAGO 270 inflatable dinghy (with the inflatable floor and keel), when the dinghy is empty, it “flips” very easily when tethered from the stern, it doesn’t need a lot of wind for this to happen and it usually does a 360deg roll. I think that this happens because of the large tubes and because the dinghy rides high in the water with the inflatable keel.
I usually take the outboard off, when the dinghy is tethered astern, but occasionally I’m lulled into a sense of false security, “it’ll be OK, it’s not that windy” and leave the outboard on. When the dinghy flips, it immerses the power head, it doesn’t seem to get water in the sump, or the fuel tank if the vent is closed, but it does get water in the carburettor, which means it has to be stripped and the jets blown out.
The SS bolt which holds the bowel onto the carb’ is screwed into a tapping in an aluminium casting, the same tapped casting also holds the main jet. I’ve found white corrosion products in the treads caused by the reaction between the SS and the aluminium, which makes it hard to get the jet out; it spins out easily until the corroded part of the thread and then becomes tight. I’ve tried cleaning the thread with limited success. I don’t have a tap and die set onboard.
The brass the jet is made of is very soft and you need a screw driver with a parallel shaft (because it’s down a long tapped hole) and (as you correctly point out) a good square blade. You have to be very careful not to damage the slot. If the shaft of the screw driver isn’t parallel, you can damage the aluminium thread, which is also very soft. The carb’ has probably been stripped half a dozen times now and I’ve obviously not been careful enough.
The real solution is to swap the dinghy for something which is more stable when empty, the alternative is to take the outboard off, almost every time I come on board, which is real hassle, or use two painters to try and make the dinghy more stable, I've tried this but it's not that effective.
 
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