Cordless Polishing machine

asteven221

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I have a heavy corded polishing machine which really isn't very pleasant to use on vertical surfaces. I was thinking a cordless machine would do the job a lot easier.

Can anyone recommend a machine that would be good for polishing and cutting back the topsides? I am not too keen on the machines where I have to use two hands all the time i.e. a machine with two handles (funnily enough!).

Ta.
 

rogerthebodger

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I have a heavy corded polishing machine which really isn't very pleasant to use on vertical surfaces. I was thinking a cordless machine would do the job a lot easier.

Ta.

When I use a heavy power machine on the vertical side of my boat I hang it from a halyard with a bungee between the machine nd the halyard. This supports the weight but allows the machine to be moved about.
 

jwilson

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If it's going to be as powerful as a corded one (mine is 1,200 watts) the battery will be a lot heavier than the cord, or it will have a run-time of a few minutes. ".... Ye canna change the laws of physics", or something similar.
 

Hoolie

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For polishing the topsides, I use two bungees attached to the toe rail and spaced about 75cm apart. Very easy as the whole weight of the polisher is supported and they can be moved along as you go.
 

bernie_ni

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I know you are talking about 'cordless', but there aren't many with the power needed for continual use.
I have a Sealey er1700, its lightweight enough to use with one hand and the variable speed is useful when polishing (lower speed) as opposed to cutting (higher)
its not expensive either, about £70 or so
 

gavin400

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Saw a cordless polisher at SIBS - a Mirka, but it was about £500
August 2018 PBO have a review of their sander

I use a cordless drill with a polishing bonnet for cabin sides and it works fine if you have two batteries, but would be a lot of work for topsides
Also, still relatively heavy to use for prolonged periods
 

asteven221

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Thanks for the replies.

I was probably hoping for too much! I guess I will stick with my 3.7Kgs Clarke polisher and try the bungee idea.

Cheers
 

asteven221

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Thanks. That looks a nice bit of kit and is just the thing I am after. Bit expensive right enough, but might go for it!!
 

TSB240

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pvb

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I polish by hand - choose the right products and it's easy. I think power polishers have the potential to damage the gelcoat in amateur hands.
 

Neeves

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My understanding is - polishing removes some of the gelcoat (and I think this is what PVB refers to), maybe only a few microns, but in the long term - yes its shiny -

but what other benefits are there?

Serious question

Jonathan
 

rogerthebodger

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My understanding is - polishing removes some of the gelcoat (and I think this is what PVB refers to), maybe only a few microns, but in the long term - yes its shiny -

but what other benefits are there?

Serious question

Jonathan

All polishing remove material. In removing a scratch you have to remove material to at least the depth of the scratch.

Each grade of abrasive will leave scratched which are removed by the next lower grade of abrasive until the scratches are so small the eye cannot detect the scratches.
 

pvb

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All polishing remove material. In removing a scratch you have to remove material to at least the depth of the scratch.

I think there's some confusion over the word "polishing". In metalwork, polishing is an abrasive process. The "polish" we typically use on our boats is non-abrasive. If there are scratches or imperfections in the gelcoat, an abrasive compound is used before polishing.

I ise Meguiars 45 Polish, which totally non-abrasive, followed by Meguiars 56 Wax, which again is totally non-abrasive. If the surface requires correction before polishing, I use Meguiars 44 Colour Restorer, which is very slightly abrasive.
 

rogerthebodger

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I think there's some confusion over the word "polishing". In metalwork, polishing is an abrasive process. The "polish" we typically use on our boats is non-abrasive. If there are scratches or imperfections in the gelcoat, an abrasive compound is used before polishing.

I ise Meguiars 45 Polish, which totally non-abrasive, followed by Meguiars 56 Wax, which again is totally non-abrasive. If the surface requires correction before polishing, I use Meguiars 44 Colour Restorer, which is very slightly abrasive.

Reading the info on the Meguias 45 "Polish" tells the story as to what that produce does.

Meguiar’s #45 Marine/RV Polish is designed for the special needs of boats and RVs. Because both boats and RVs are made of fiberglass, they have a porous gel coat. This polish is designed to penetrate the pores and remove contamination while depositing nourishing oils. These oils wet the gel coat to create a rich, vibrant shine. Once you apply a coat of Meguiar’s #56 Boat/RV Pure Wax, your boat or RV will have a high gloss shine that withstands the elements, even salt water.

This is not a filling the pores of the GRP , deep cleaning the GRP then filling the pores with an "oil". This is like waxing as you say which adds a smooth layer on top of the GRP. The waxing of the next produce in the range also adds a layer of protective material that also makes the surface shiny.

Polish is a general term for getting a shiny surface. Burnishing is also a way to get a shiny surface without removing material

Pedantic mode off

Painting with a gloss paint can also give a shiny service and painting is not considered polishing.
 
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