Copper or rubber fuel lines

petersto

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What are the pros and cons of using copper or rubber fuel lines. The rubber can be bought from the local motor factors and I am told is suitable for diesel or petrol. From my point of view a lot cheaper and easier to install. Whats the easiest to change simpest to install and obviously the right price for a fuel filter. do I need a water strainer. So many questions but i am sure someone out there knows. Thankyou in advance.

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tony_brighton

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Any chance of a bit more data - what type of boat, what type/size of engine, how much fuel does it consume etc. Most engine manufacturers will have an installation manual covering most of these points especially things like water separators, filters etc. Personally I'd be wary of rubber tubing - its more liable to wear and tear and therefore leaks.

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byron

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<font color=blue> Correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the much hated BSS now require you to have copper fuel lines?

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snowleopard

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rubber is ok as long as you protect it from chafe. you should fit a water filter which will also help remove sediment. it will be necessary to bleed air from the filter so you must have a way of forcing the fuel into it to displace the air. this can be done by connecting the filter downstream of the engine's fuel pump, feeding the fuel by gravity from a day tank or fitting a squeeze-bulb into the fuel line.

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petersto

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Sorry Tony Brighton its an MD11C about 23hp and 1978. There is a filter at the moment but its a devil to take apart and reassemble wit no sediment or water trap.
Hope thats enough to work on.

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Jools_of_Top_Cat

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This link might help, it covers the whole fuel system <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.reading-college.ac.uk/marine/13bfuel.htm#bmn47>The Diesel System</A>

Remember to use thick walled copper and (from BSS) <font color=green>All hose
used in the fuel system must be fire resistant to at least 21/2 minutes, as
specified in the internationally agreed marine fuel hose Standard (BS EN ISO
7840), although there are hoses available with superior fire resisting qualities
(e.g. BS ISO 15540). Both of these hoses will also meet the current
requirement for reinforcement and wall thickness.</font color=green> <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.boatsafetyscheme.com/site/GettheGuide_7.asp#>Boat Safety Scheme web site</A>

hope this helps

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=blue> Julian </font color=blue>

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dickhicks

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You need copper pipe to a combined water seperator and filter, usually about 20 or 30 micron, then copper pipe to a suitable point near the fuel pump on the engine where yje end can be clamped securely, then APPROVED flexible hose to teh fuel pump. This approved flexible hose can be bought in various lenfths or made up to suit with suitable fittings at each end, mine has a banjo fitting onto the pump and a standpipe fitting to the copper pipe. Only use proper compression fittings to join the copper pipe to the standpipe on the flexible hose. Make sure the flexible hose is not stretched tight to allow for engine movement.
See <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.asap-supplies.com>http://www.asap-supplies.com</A> for hoses and water seperator/filter.

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Plum

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Rubber fuel lines

I made some investigations last year when I replaced my diesel fuel lines and concluded that, for non-inland waterways, which are covered by the Recreational
Craft Directive, providing the lines are reasonably short and protected from chafe, then you can use rubber as long as the hose is marked along its length with "ISO 7840-A1" or "ISO 7840-A2". This 1994 ISO standard is titled "small craft - fire-resistant fuel hoses" Proper barbed nozzles are requied together with metallic clamps. Fuel hoses with special compression fittings at each end may be used but are
not compulsory.

For inland waterways the rules are different.

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vyv_cox

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Re: Rubber fuel lines

I found much the same. There are many practical difficulties attached to using copper pipe, such as locating all the different connectors needed for the diesel tank valve, primary filter connections, lift pump connections and so on. In the end you might well finish up using rubber tubing to connect at each end of the copper, so needing twice as many joints. The fire-resistant rubber tubing seems like a reasonable compromise.

Just for info, my diesel VW has metal pipe from the tank, connected to it by a short length of rubber tube and two clips, a screwed compression fitting into the filter and a plastic tube about 50 cm long that extends from the filter right across the engine compartment.

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clio

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In the days before accountants got involved in machinery building.Primary fuel lines were steel, copper plated on the outside, tinned on the inside, thats one of the reasons for compression fittings so as not to damage the tinning, copper does react with the sulfur in the diesel, it will eventuly coat the filter with copper sulfide.despite what the rules say, hose is safer than copper, copper will crack from vibration

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tr7v8

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Quite agree, however my Draco at some point in it's life had a BSS. Every inch of fuel line is copper, yup no flexy at all! Oh yes and their's lots of it.
Shame they didn't do some of the other jobs like cover the batteries!

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