Fascadale
Well-Known Member
Thanks again...........you all now have me convinced that this bit of kit is "a good thing"
Continuous line headsail furling
- Thread starter Fascadale
- Start date
srm
Well-Known Member
Sailspar reefing gear, fitted one to my Prout cat in 2004, used for 5 years then sold boat. Fitted two to my current boat in 2009 as I wanted to increase the forestays size (cutter). Very happy with the gear, and it has never caused problems provided the slack side is kept under slight tension. Also, know of two others who have them. The only problem I have heard of is the splice occasionally being stiff to pull through the fitting.
Bellatrix27
New Member
This post was a life saver for me! Some idiot in a hire boat reversed into my Jaguar 27 which had the mast and gear down, managed to bend the top of the furler. The furler had no manufacturer markings and a trawl of Google images for "furler drum" found nothing lookin g remotely like mine. After some hours of resigning to either make a jig to straighten the bend or pay for a whole new unit, I tried searching against Jaguar boats, even though it's not a standard part (and the boat log says it's a Plastimo fitted in 2005!).
Having found Sailspar it was then a bit dubious that they were still in business sever years later, but Jenny and David are still there and gave excellent help in getting a replacement foil to me.
I'll share a few things that I found out when doing a refit.
1/ Before the damage, I was in the process of refitting the continuous line. Since I had no manual, I was unsure if the line could be fitted as a pre-made loop or had to be fed in and then spliced. So I took the drum apart to investigate, by the river. Then wondered what the occassional plinking noise was - turned out to be ball bearings dropping out and mostly going through the quay decking into the water. Lesson one, the thrust bearings are not sealed inserts. Fortunately, they were 3/8th balls and easy to replace. At least the bearings got a service.
The rope could be fitted as a pre-made loop and fitted into an open drum if you are happy to try and keep the bearings in place. A bit of grease should hold them unti,the unit is closed. I opted to fit and then splice.
2/ Not all ropes are great for this kind of splice, the braid cover has to be happy to open up. I found that Kingfisher 8mm braid on braid worked for me. I choose red because it's easier to see the white core. With white covers you can catch strands of the cover and try and pull them out thinking they are the core( not recommeneded). There are some excellent splicing videos on YT, I referred to the one by Premier Ropes. I recommend practice on some short rope samples before committing to one that is 16m+
3/ The continous loop is a bit of an obstacle when taking the mast down, because it is running through blocks down the side of the boat. Unless you detach one or two of the blocks, the base of the furler has limited movement and may hold up or pull on the mast. I found this when I took my mast down; as per boatyard crews mentioned above, I had to cut it as a safer option than the snag it caused. Rope was 15 yrs ol and stiff anyway, so no loss there.
The running blocks fitted on my boat aren't easy to remove, as they are bolted on or are dismantled into easily lost wheels and washers by removing a pin. I've since adapted them so that they are held on by a clevis pin which can easily be pulled to release the tackle and keep it on the line.
It is seven years since this thread got any update so hopefully this will provide a bit of ongoing guidance to others.
Having found Sailspar it was then a bit dubious that they were still in business sever years later, but Jenny and David are still there and gave excellent help in getting a replacement foil to me.
I'll share a few things that I found out when doing a refit.
1/ Before the damage, I was in the process of refitting the continuous line. Since I had no manual, I was unsure if the line could be fitted as a pre-made loop or had to be fed in and then spliced. So I took the drum apart to investigate, by the river. Then wondered what the occassional plinking noise was - turned out to be ball bearings dropping out and mostly going through the quay decking into the water. Lesson one, the thrust bearings are not sealed inserts. Fortunately, they were 3/8th balls and easy to replace. At least the bearings got a service.
The rope could be fitted as a pre-made loop and fitted into an open drum if you are happy to try and keep the bearings in place. A bit of grease should hold them unti,the unit is closed. I opted to fit and then splice.
2/ Not all ropes are great for this kind of splice, the braid cover has to be happy to open up. I found that Kingfisher 8mm braid on braid worked for me. I choose red because it's easier to see the white core. With white covers you can catch strands of the cover and try and pull them out thinking they are the core( not recommeneded). There are some excellent splicing videos on YT, I referred to the one by Premier Ropes. I recommend practice on some short rope samples before committing to one that is 16m+
3/ The continous loop is a bit of an obstacle when taking the mast down, because it is running through blocks down the side of the boat. Unless you detach one or two of the blocks, the base of the furler has limited movement and may hold up or pull on the mast. I found this when I took my mast down; as per boatyard crews mentioned above, I had to cut it as a safer option than the snag it caused. Rope was 15 yrs ol and stiff anyway, so no loss there.
The running blocks fitted on my boat aren't easy to remove, as they are bolted on or are dismantled into easily lost wheels and washers by removing a pin. I've since adapted them so that they are held on by a clevis pin which can easily be pulled to release the tackle and keep it on the line.
It is seven years since this thread got any update so hopefully this will provide a bit of ongoing guidance to others.
JumbleDuck
Well-Known Member
I asked them earlier this year if I could dismantled the drum unit to get the line out for washing and got a quite reply saying "Noooooo. Ball bearings will go everywhere if you do," So I didn't , and it sounds as if I dodged a bullet.
I was replacing my forestay at the time, and Sailspar were extremely helpful with advice, instructions and even the grub screw needed when you take the torques tube off, which they sent me free of charge. In every respect they are lovely people to deal with.
Bellatrix27
New Member
I think as long as you know this will happen it's not a problem if you can catch the balls. There are two thrust races, one in the top and one in the bottom of the drum housing. There are matching recessed rims on the winder axle. A suitably thick grease applied to the winder rims should act as a gripping agent to hold the balls in place while the assembly is wrangled into place.
Replacing the loop line doesn't seem to be a cheap job if you can't do the splicing yourself. That's if you can get the rope! Seems to be a shortage of 8mm braid on braid right now, took four attempts to find anyone with stock.
Replacing the loop line doesn't seem to be a cheap job if you can't do the splicing yourself. That's if you can get the rope! Seems to be a shortage of 8mm braid on braid right now, took four attempts to find anyone with stock.
srm
Well-Known Member
I think the instructions for my first Sailspar reefing gear (2004'ish) suggested that should you have to dismantling the drum do so with in inside a bucket.
Agree, they are great people to deal with. They made up all the standing rigging in 2009 along with two reefing gears for my current boat.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
I have continuous line furling for my cruising chute made by Selden. To take the line back I have 3 of these support.seldenmast.com/en/press_releases/double_fairlead.html and this double cam block attached to the pushpit leg with a snap shackle in easy reach of the helmsupport.seldenmast.com/en/products/blocks/plain_bearing_blocks/pbb50/__item_405-001-40.html
Works really well and the line and cam block are taken off with the sail on its torque rope. The actual furling line (8mm) came with the furler already made up and given how little use it actually gets should not need replacement. The block can be assembled around the looped line. Not cheap at over £300 for the lot, but makes life very easy!
Works really well and the line and cam block are taken off with the sail on its torque rope. The actual furling line (8mm) came with the furler already made up and given how little use it actually gets should not need replacement. The block can be assembled around the looped line. Not cheap at over £300 for the lot, but makes life very easy!
webcraft
Well-Known Member
Another vote for 'good piece of kit'
Had this on Fairwinds since I got her in 2003
- W
Had this on Fairwinds since I got her in 2003
- W
StUrrock
Well-Known Member
Another vote for this furling system, have it on our Hurley 30/90, so easy to use.
Just remember to set up keeping the splice from going round the drum and all is good….
Just remember to set up keeping the splice from going round the drum and all is good….
wilkinsonsails
Well-Known Member
Loved the Sailspar gear on my previous boat . It was secondhand when I got it so must have been 30 yrs old when I sold the boat . Two forestays and cleaning the ball races kept it working fine .