Compunding and polishing help

[laika]

It's been a while since I had the boat out of the water for a good polish. In the past I've used other people's equipment. Now I have no-one to borrow from and have acquired a silverline polisher. What advice would anyone give for heads for (a) compounding and (b) final polishing. The surface is not particularly bad and I'm trying out the farecla gelcoat restorer (which I already have so not asking for advice on whether to use something different).

I tried the silverline blue foam head but it seemed a bit soft. The white one seems about right. I also tried the farecla compounding head but that seemed way too rigid and make the polisher impossible to control. However all the youtube videos I've seen on boat detailing seem to use a big lambswool thing for the compounding (not just polishing) rather than a foam head.

What does everyone else use?

 

[pvb]

I just use my hands...

 

[gjgm]

3m wool head, and a backing plate.
Farecla make a range to cover the whole process, but I cant remember how many with farecla , 5 maybe ?
Just remember it is alot easier to take gel off than get it back on, so you should use the mildest abrasion to do the job. If it isnt enough, go back to a coarser one. Some of the gel restorers can be a bit fierce ,especially with a wool bonnet.
So, wash down, mild compound (or maybe not at all),polish,wax. The cutting back makes the shine. If it isnt gleaming, it isnt ready for wax, which is just protection.
Lots of threads on this before, so try a search, and this is a good summary, below. Doesnt really matter which brand you use, but the advantage is that they have done the grading of the products for you. Forget foam heads and forget cheap wool bonnets.
http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/porta.../ApplicationProcesses/CleaningAndRestoration/
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=117266

This is a long slow job. At least a day, easily more.

 

[VicS]

It's been a while since I had the boat out of the water for a good polish. In the past I've used other people's equipment. Now I have no-one to borrow from and have acquired a silverline polisher. What advice would anyone give for heads for (a) compounding and (b) final polishing. The surface is not particularly bad and I'm trying out the farecla gelcoat restorer (which I already have so not asking for advice on whether to use something different).

I tried the silverline blue foam head but it seemed a bit soft. The white one seems about right. I also tried the farecla compounding head but that seemed way too rigid and make the polisher impossible to control. However all the youtube videos I've seen on boat detailing seem to use a big lambswool thing for the compounding (not just polishing) rather than a foam head.

What does everyone else use?

Silverline sander-polisher too.

I use a white compounding mop...... seems about right but the cheap ones ( Toolstation) seem to go out of balance after a couple of uses.

I have used various compounds. A Farecla one ( G?? paste), then a fibreglass rubbing compound from the chandler ( Boatpride ??). Most recently a Starbrite one... but only because that what was in the chandlers ( Force4 or Seateach ??).

Cannot say I have notice much difference in performance although one was a bit coarser than the others ....... I actually have two grades of the Starbite compound, using the coarse , heavy duty, stuff by hand only where needed.

Keep moist with a water from a trigger spray bottle.

I apply a polish and buff it by hand after the compounding.... I have a lambs wool bonnet I could use but not bothered with it.


Mine is getting to the stage where it really needs a light going over with fine wet and dry ..... Not going to happen though.

 

[MASH]

Does Solvol polish help or is something harsher required?

 

[chinita]

I use a Silverline as well.

For the white I use the Silverline lambswool head with 3M Imperial compound and polish. I think the Farecla you have is just for compounding and you will need to polish afterwards

For the badly oxidised blue I used Farecla G3 with the Farecla sponge head.

Then applied ordinary car polish, then Autoglym.

All worked well; but will be interested to see how long it lasts.

 

[VicS]

What advice would anyone give for heads for (a) compounding and (b) final polishing. The surface is not particularly bad and I'm trying out the farecla gelcoat restorer (which I already have so not asking for advice on whether to use something different).

I tried the silverline blue foam head but it seemed a bit soft. The white one seems about right. I also tried the farecla compounding head but that seemed way too rigid and make the polisher impossible to control. However all the youtube videos I've seen on boat detailing seem to use a big lambswool thing for the compounding (not just polishing) rather than a foam head.

What does everyone else use?

The Gelcoat Restorer is used by hand or with a lambswool polishing pad. ITYWF

http://www.farecla.co.uk/industrial/profile-gelcoat-restorer-wax

 

[nigelmercier]

For the badly oxidised blue I used Farecla G3 with the Farecla sponge head...

Subject: Response to your Farécla Ask an Expert Enquiry

Thank you for contacting Farécla Products Ltd. In response to your question, we would not recommend using G3 as this is designed for use on automotive paint surfaces. We do have another brand called Profile, which in itself has a range particularly designed for Marine Maintenance...
For your reference, you can purchase these products online from East Coast Fibreglass Supplies at http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/; alternatively, your local chandlery may also stock them.

 

[pvb]

For what it's worth, I reckon that using any abrasive compound, especially with a machine, is a risky process on gelcoat. People seem to think it's a magic answer, but in many cases it may lead ultimately to an even worse result. Gelcoat needs to be treated gently and nurtured. I've only ever attacked mine by hand, and with nothing more abrasive than "creme cleaner" on a wet sudsy sponge. I polish by hand, and then wax by hand, using Meguiars products which are very easy both to apply and to rub off.

 

[srah1953]

I've always wanted to pose the question (and this seems a suitable occasion)- what is the difference between polishing by hand and polishing by machine? I'm assuming with a machine there's more “polishing” taking place than would by hand but is the result any better, eg, longer lasting shine?

 

[pvb]

I've always wanted to pose the question (and this seems a suitable occasion)- what is the difference between polishing by hand and polishing by machine? I'm assuming with a machine there's more “polishing” taking place than would by hand but is the result any better, eg, longer lasting shine?

Probably, as with most questions of preference, those who use machines will say it's the better option, those who don't will say there's no need to use a machine. A lot of people seem to want to magically restore 30-40 year old faded gelcoat so that it looks like new - that's rather fanciful.

As for "longer lasting shine", a lot depends on the products you use. I only polish every 2 years, and have found that 2 applications of polish, followed by 2 applications of wax, last pretty well. I do it by hand, using Meguiars polish and wax, and it's fairly quick and easy.

 

[gjgm]

If it works for you... super.
A polisher should be running at about 1700-2000 rpm , and with a matched mop and compound/polish, I am not sure how fast your wrists can move. but I would question the by- hand philosophy.
I will spend about 10-15 hours by machine... that's the other side of a million turns.
Anyway, no competition here....for the sake of injury, a machine might be an idea !

 

[chinita]

Subject: Response to your Farécla Ask an Expert Enquiry

Wow! Thanks for that.

http://www.force4.co.uk/b/211/Farecla.html

Can I sue?

 

[sunquest]

Subject: Response to your Farécla Ask an Expert Enquiry

(Thank you for contacting Farécla Products Ltd. In response to your question, we would not recommend using G3 as this is designed for use on automotive paint surfaces. We do have another brand called Profile, which in itself has a range particularly designed for Marine Maintenance...
For your reference, you can purchase these products online from East Coast Fibreglass Supplies at http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/; alternatively, your local chandlery may also stock them.)

So why do chandlers stock Farecla G3 G10 products but rarely do you find Profile 200, 300 or 500 which are the correct compounds for Grp. After all Grp is the most popular hull material. Google profile 300 and you will see what I mean, no chandlers one auto refinishing company and the above fibreglass company all with additional shipping costs.
My local chandlery had plenty of the G. product and a small tube of Profile 200 which I will purchase when the Profile 300 is in sock as I ordered.

 

[chinita]

That is my point.

The Force 4 site I linked to offers all Farecla except Profile.

If Farecla discourage use of G3 for marine applications then why do they willingly supply to chandlers and chandlers willingly sell it to us.

 

[VicS]

That is my point.

The Force 4 site I linked to offers all Farecla except Profile.

If Farecla discourage use of G3 for marine applications then why do they willingly supply to chandlers and chandlers willingly sell it to us.

I suspect the reasons are historical. The Profile range is ITYWF relatively new and before they came about people were using products supplied for the automobile refinishing trade. The first time I compounded my boat the materials now specified for Grp just did not exist. At least Farecla did not offer anything. I used G3 or G7. I forget which.

 

[richardbrennan]

I use 3M wool polishing pads with good results. They do a white one for compounding and a yellow one for polishing. All available from a company called "Carters Consumables".

 

[sailorgirl]

So, wash down, mild compound (or maybe not at all),polish,wax.

Ok so I may be a bit of a numpty but I thought polishing was waxing.... or can I improve the end result in some magic way? I have our cabin and cockpit sides to do cos they are looking a bit dingy grey and dull instead of gleaming white. My usual choice of "polish" is Lifewax but if I can get a better result then I'd love to know the secret. Has to be by hand as the sides are not flat but stepped.

S

 

[pvb]

Ok so I may be a bit of a numpty but I thought polishing was waxing.... or can I improve the end result in some magic way? I have our cabin and cockpit sides to do cos they are looking a bit dingy grey and dull instead of gleaming white. My usual choice of "polish" is Lifewax but if I can get a better result then I'd love to know the secret. Has to be by hand as the sides are not flat but stepped.

Polish helps clean the surface and brings up the shine; wax protects the shine. I do my boat by hand, and the easiest products I've found are by Meguiars. I wash the surface with sudsy water and a little squeeze of "creme cleaner", rinsing it off very thoroughly. Then apply Meguiars #45 Polish, and buff it off with cotton stockinette. Then repeat the process. Then apply Meguiars #56 Wax, and buff it off with cotton stockinette. Then repeat that process too. The result is a decent shine which lasts quite well. My 20 year old white gelcoat looks pretty good with this treatment.

 

[srah1953]

Polish helps clean the surface and brings up the shine; wax protects the shine. I do my boat by hand, and the easiest products I've found are by Meguiars. I wash the surface with sudsy water and a little squeeze of "creme cleaner", rinsing it off very thoroughly. Then apply Meguiars #45 Polish, and buff it off with cotton stockinette. Then repeat the process. Then apply Meguiars #56 Wax, and buff it off with cotton stockinette. Then repeat that process too. The result is a decent shine which lasts quite well. My 20 year old white gelcoat looks pretty good with this treatment.

How long roughly would it take to do your 35ft boat, assuming your working on your own?
Thanks