Coding the boat, some practical questions

grumpy_o_g said:
Ah, OK. A tube is a pipe if it's rigid or hose if it's flexible. Rinse is more a wash down with fresh water (or whatever). If you're putting water down a pipe to clear a blockage we would say flushing as in flushing a toilet. Constipation only happens to people btw - pipes and hoses and stuff get blocked.

Do the coding people really want that on the card even if though doesn't go through the hull? .
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OK, now that I read the words, pipe, flush, blocked , this sounds all so obvious , thanks !

no this list of bilge appliances has nothing to do with the coding,
but I thought its a good place to list them, and to indicate their position,
and why not make these requirements (seacockplan) more usefull ?
 
Don't worry Bart, your English is fantastic. I would use Fresh, Grey, Black and seawater. Not sure about seacocks, as I think it depends on their material. Proper bronze ones should be good for more than 5 years I would think, possible up to 10, but of course, the warm Med waters might be more aggressive?
 
rafiki_ said:
Not sure about seacocks, as I think it depends on their material. Proper bronze ones should be good for more than 5 years I would think, possible up to 10, but of course, the warm Med waters might be more aggressive?
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and do regular inspection on the seacocks,

since we have replaced some hoses in the E/R and Util./R, (some of them connected to seacocks)
this obsessions about a seacock failure has become my worst nightmare.

Since I found out there is a webcam in port de Toulon, I'll check almost dayly if she's still afload :)
 
BartW said:
and do regular inspection on the seacocks,

since we have replaced some hoses in the E/R and Util./R, (some of them connected to seacocks)
this obsessions about a seacock failure has become my worst nightmare.

Since I found out there is a webcam in port de Toulon, I'll check almost dayly if she's still afload :)
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Bart, I think we all get our pet phobia's about our boats. :)
 
Piers said:
More surveyors are cottoning onto the fact that any vessel over 12m loa (coded or otherwise) should have an IMO approved horn (complete with its specific certificate). If you don't have one and the surveyor picks it up, Toby can ship you one asap. Sometimes, the surveyor will accept an email from Toby to the effect that one has been despatched with a copy of the certificate attached, so it doesn't hold up the certification process.
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I've copied your post from the stabilizer thread and answer here, where its more appropriate (this probably was your intention, as both thread where on top of the list...etc)

thanks for your kind offer,
but the surveyor already approved my old Rina approved Marco horn, and I believe this will be more then adequate for med use :)
so no real intention to change right now
thanks again for the offer
 
BartW said:
I've copied your post from the stabilizer thread and answer here, where its more appropriate (this probably was your intention, as both thread where on top of the list...etc)

thanks for your kind offer,
but the surveyor already approved my old Rina approved Marco horn, and I believe this will be more then adequate for med use :)
so no real intention to change right now
thanks again for the offer
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Forgetfulness - maybe that's why I've retired!

It's interesting since RINA certification conflicts with the IMO COLREGS for horns and only applies whilst in Italian waters. So surveyors still don't understand the difference. But if you have a tick in the box you're the winner. Bart 1, surveyor nil !

Bravo. See you.

Piers
 
This thread has been an interesting read for me since I plan to get my 35ft SD mobo coded this winter.
In particular, the comments re inconsistency among surveyors.

I have recently engaged a surveyor who has sent me a list of 20 basic requirements, a much shortened version of MGN280 to make life easier for me I guess, specific to motor boats.

A couple of things on the list I don't like to question as I'm not the expert but...
300mm washboards capable of being locked in position to fit in saloon door?
Crash bar by cooker and a "cook's strap"? I don't even know what these are!

I'm not too happy about this 1000mm height around the cockpit either, I've got 800mm so looks like I've got some stainless work to do.
 
JSYmartini said:
300mm washboards capable of being locked in position to fit in saloon door?
Crash bar by cooker and a "cook's strap"? I don't even know what these are!

I'm not too happy about this 1000mm height around the cockpit either, I've got 800mm so looks like I've got some stainless work to do.
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1) I guess its a 30cm high plank that you can fix in the saloon door opening, in case your saloon door is ripped off in heavy sea (just for emergency use)
2) don't know
3) on my boat the railing is mostly 90cm, and some is 80cm high, but my Surveyor accepted,

good luck with it !
 
BartW said:
2) don't know
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Normally a solid (usually stainless) bar across the front of the cooker/hob to prevent crew falling into/onto the cooker/hob in a seaway.

Cooks strap is the opposite - a strong strap securely fixed both sides of the cooker against which the crew member doing the cooking can lean against away from the cooker.
 
JSYmartini said:
This thread has been an interesting read for me since I plan to get my 35ft SD mobo coded this winter.
In particular, the comments re inconsistency among surveyors.

I have recently engaged a surveyor who has sent me a list of 20 basic requirements, a much shortened version of MGN280 to make life easier for me I guess, specific to motor boats.

A couple of things on the list I don't like to question as I'm not the expert but...
300mm washboards capable of being locked in position to fit in saloon door?
Crash bar by cooker and a "cook's strap"? I don't even know what these are!

I'm not too happy about this 1000mm height around the cockpit either, I've got 800mm so looks like I've got some stainless work to do.
Click to expand...
JSY
As I've said before the only way to code your boat without spoiling it is to take control of application of the rules and get a surveyor who understands them in a balance (rather than capricious) way. Personally I would also choose ybdsa rather than rya as the classification body, but each to their own on that. Find out your prospective surveyor's views on critical issues before you hire him and clock up fees.

First off, why MGN280? Several try to tell you it is the standard and "impose " it on you. The law if the land is that Yellow book applies, and mgn 280 is an accepted alternative. You have the choice, so if you prefer yellow book then use it.

Ref your questions:

1. Washboards - the 300mm washboard rule (5.2.1.3 in mgn 280) applies only to forward facing or side facing doors. It categorically does not apply to aft facing "patio doors" on a motor boat. If your surveyor says otherwise he is wrong. This is not debatable; the rules are crystal clear.

2. Cooker - the rule is 21.2.5.2. If and only if the cooker is gimballed it needs a crash bar and a cooks strap. If it isn't gimballed it needs neither of those. A crash bar is a thing to stop the thing swinging on its gimbals when you don't want it to, and "other means" to achieve the same end is allowed eg a device included in the cooker to lock the gimbal mechanism. A cooks strap is an arrangement to stop the cook from flying around when the boat rolls. It must allow both cooks hands to be free. It is normally a waist hoop that clicks on to U bolts or a rail in front of the cooker. BUT I repeat, all this clobber is required only if the cooker is gimballed

If the cooker isn't gimballed it is normal for surveyors to demand a rail around the hob to stop pans sliding off. They invoke rule 21.1.2.1 for this and I think it is good advice and I always follow it

3. Rails 1000m high. This rule applies generally but there are lots of exceptions. Too many to list here but post photos of your boat if you want ideas on what exceptions and workarounds might apply

Too many surveyors think their opinion is what counts here. Their opinion does indeed count when you want their advice and it is generally very helpful then. But coding a boat is matter of applying the law, with the rules spelled out in plenty of detail
 
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Thanks for that detailed reply jfm, I had read your earlier comments on the yellow book but as I started to look into it, I was getting the impression the yellow had been superseded by MGN280.

Until very recently, we were very restricted in our choice of surveyor here in Jersey. The appointed coding authority was Mecal and you had to fly in their nominated surveyor. This has now been opened up, there's one or two locally that I wouldn't use but somebody called Andrew Dowland has been recommended. He comes over quite regularly and on his next trip he's going to drop in for an informal chat and a quick look around the boat.

This will hopefully be when I can get guidance on things like the rails. I have a couple of ideas which although mean extra work, could also be an improvement to the boat anyway. When we get a decent dry day I'll get the cockpit cover off and get some piccies.

It'd be great if I could get a 2nd opinion on any queries that may come up, thanks very much for your advice :encouragement:
 
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