Cockpit sole problem

[david_jonson]

My 33' sloop dates from the mid '70s and I have been told that there are problems with the cockpit sole. It seems it is not original to the boat and comprises a grp skin each side of a ply base. You guessed it - the ply got wet somehow and is rotting. The surveyor missed this completely when I bought the boat 4 years ago and it was brought to my attention when I had some new cockpit drains fitted recently.

I've been told the best cure is to cut the whole thing out and replace it but that is going to cost a lot of money. I heard there is stuff you can soak rotten wood with to strengthen it, does anyone know what it is and whether it would be OK to fix my cockpit floor that way ?

Any other ideas for a solution ?

 

[Amulet]

My 33' sloop dates from the mid '70s and I have been told that there are problems with the cockpit sole. It seems it is not original to the boat and comprises a grp skin each side of a ply base. You guessed it - the ply got wet somehow and is rotting. The surveyor missed this completely when I bought the boat 4 years ago and it was brought to my attention when I had some new cockpit drains fitted recently.

I've been told the best cure is to cut the whole thing out and replace it but that is going to cost a lot of money. I heard there is stuff you can soak rotten wood with to strengthen it, does anyone know what it is and whether it would be OK to fix my cockpit floor that way ?

Any other ideas for a solution ?

I think your problem might be getting it dry in order to do that. You can find lots of "rotten wood hardener" products" on the web.

 

[William_H]

It sounds like you are not a DIY person if you had drains fitted. Hence if you are going to get a shipwright to fix the problem it could be expensive.
If it is a later fit than original then presumably the non skid pattern of fibreglass is not original so that makes it all easier. It is hard to replicate the original.
If you have not noticed the prohblem then presumably you could just ignore it. If now it bothers you that the floor is spongy then you will want it fixed.
A simple if not complete fix is to drill holes in the bad area dry it out as far as possible then inject epoxy resin into the void. The holes might need to be as close as 50mm from one another.
The compete fix will involve cutting off the top layer of fibreglass scraping out and removing all the ply and replacing with something like polyester foam which will last a lot longer even if wet. Replace the top layer of GRP at a suitable thickness.
Another bodge fix alternative might be to leave the rotten ply there and simply lay up one or more layers of carbon fibre and resin. This has an inherent stiffness much greater than glass but it will probnably still flex under foot.
So all sorts of options from compete replacement to bo0dge fix. over to you. good luck olewill

 

[onesea]

If you had not noticed the problem before is it a problem? If there is still sufficient strength, I would say no.

At the same time I would look to fix the situation before it becomes a problem.

Maybe drill a few holes from underneath, and leave it for a few seasons to dry. If the boat is properly ventilated the inside should be dry with time.

Then I would go with injecting epoxy resin...

The other question is is there some where water can get in? Deck fittings etc. If so maybe these need removing drying epoxying around screw holes and refitting to stop more water getting in..

 

[guernseyman]

The OP is not defining the problem very well - does the grp bound the plywood like a sandwich, or is there a plywood sole and grp cockpit sides?

Anyway, I don't think there is any solution for rotten wood except cutting it back and treating the more wholesome wood with something to harden it and prevent the spread of the rot.

More positively, in the hands of a professional these problems usually cost a lot less to solve than one imagines. Find someone local who does marine woodwork and get an opinion.

 

[prv]

The compete fix will involve cutting off the top layer of fibreglass scraping out and removing all the ply and replacing with something like polyester foam which will last a lot longer even if wet. Replace the top layer of GRP at a suitable thickness.

+1 - I did exactly this to the aft deck on Kindred Spirit. I replaced the core with new ply, but suitable foam may have been even better. Took me about a day and a half to do; the result is visibly a repair but not a horrendously messy one. Surveyor had no problem with it when we came to sell the boat. If I did the same job again tomorrow I'd get a neater result, but that was my first ever bit of fibreglassing work.

Pete

 

[macd]

olewill is spot-on, as usual.
If DIY, it needn't be hugely expensive.
Is she tiller-steered?: the job's much easier if there's no pedestal.
Consider doing a GRP course if you can find one locally. It's a skill you'll be thankful of.
And try to find out where the water came from in the first place. The odds are that it's leaking under badly-installed fittings.

 

[winsbury]

Had the same problem, previous owner had tried drilling and plugging but wood hadn't dried so bond was poor so wood continued to deteriorate. I tried redrilling but condensation under the sole in cold weather was getting sucked up into the wood due to the spongy nature of it so it would not dry. Eventually cut away GRP layer from underside and replaced rotten wood with new marine ply then recovered with expoxied roving. Result is perfect, totally stable and no ugly scars on the non slip and took just a day to do. Materials cost about 50 pounds in all and was easier to do than I expected.

 

[oldsaltoz]

If the area is original, make the repair from the inside to preserve the finish.

If it is not original, just cut from the top, remove the old rotted timber and replace ot with a "Closed Cell" foam, it will not rot,ever.

Lots of PPE and half an hour should see the bottom removed.
If you measure and make up the new base before cutting the job will done in a single day.

Drilling and injecting epoxy resin will only work if the timber is very dry, and from your post you have not established how the water got in there in the first place.

This is a very straight forward cut and glass job, no difficult joints or special procedures required to complete the task.

Ask around you club, someone will have experience in glassing and you can learn a bit by assisting and saving more dosh.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[david_jonson]

I think the idea of fixing it from the bottom is more attractive because it will make less mess. I will try to find a glassfibre worker and get his opinion on how to proceed. Anyone know a good glassfibre man in the Brighton area ?

Thanks for the ideas from those who replied.