Cockpit outlet has a slight leak

[kevsbox]

Hey all
We have a Westerly Centaur and I have noticed a slight leak on our starboard cockpit drain outlet. It is seawater and amounts to about half a cup full a week but I would like to get it fixed before it gets worse.
This is the outlet


And the water is coming through here


Is there any form of sealant I can safely use around this joint or do I need to come out of the water and replace it all?
Thanks in advance for any advise.

 

[Sticky Fingers]

Is that a cockpit water drain? If so, why does it need to be under water with a seacock rather than draining above the W/L through a free draining scupper? Apologies if I misunderstood, or miss the significance.

 

[kevsbox]

Is that a cockpit water drain? If so, why does it need to be under water with a seacock rather than draining above the W/L through a free draining scupper? Apologies if I misunderstood, or miss the significance.

Yep it is the cockpit drain, it was there when I purchased the yacht and I assume she was built that way.

 

[Boathook]

I would lift out and replace the fitting. Looks corroded.

 

[Boathook]

Is that a cockpit water drain? If so, why does it need to be under water with a seacock rather than draining above the W/L through a free draining scupper? Apologies if I misunderstood, or miss the significance.

I think fairly standard for a boat of that age and design.

 

[Sticky Fingers]

Yep it is the cockpit drain, it was there when I purchased the yacht and I assume she was built that way.

OK. Wow.

I agree with boathook, replace when you next lift. And double clip the hose.

 

[Sticky Fingers]

I think fairly standard for a boat of that age and design.

OK. I thought I might be on thin ice (knowledge). Scuppers IMHO should be large, incapable of being blocked, and free draining and that arrangement is none of those.

 

[Stemar]

OK. Wow.

I agree with boathook, replace when you next lift. And double clip the hose.

Big +1, except I'm not sure that I'd want to wait too long.

Here's what happened to one on the boat I'd just bought when I tried to change it. I wouldn't disturb it until I was ready to change the through hull. In the meantime, I'd keep a wooden cone of the right size handy.

It is a job that can be done between tides if you've got everything ready, including an angle grinder in case the nut won't come undone.
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOtwjIeIfpaaolFOqvktx9smJtLHpdc3DusTL9o

 

[johnalison]

I think that is a bit alarmist. By all means keep a plug nearby but it’s near the end of the season anyway. It’s only at low pressure and you could probably stem the leak with some tape such as self-amalgamating tape.

 

[kevsbox]

Big +1, except I'm not sure that I'd want to wait too long.

Here's what happened to one on the boat I'd just bought when I tried to change it. I wouldn't disturb it until I was ready to change the through hull. In the meantime, I'd keep a wooden cone of the right size handy.

It is a job that can be done between tides if you've got everything ready, including an angle grinder in case the nut won't come undone.
Google Photos
View attachment 181776

Yep, we have a wooden plug on standby

 

[kevsbox]

Thanks for all the info. We have done the 3-4 day sailing trips for this year so only knocking around in the harbour now. So going to tape it for the moment and source a replacement and get ready to quickly replace while beached at low tide (including a grinder). Can anyone recomend a good replacement?
Also I remember on my last yacht (a MacWester) the two cockpit drains joined and went out through a single outlet on the port side, this was also above the water line. Has anyone done this on a Centaur?

 

[pioneer]

I would be inclined to replace all metal components , there was a period many years ago (seventies?) when certain metals where hard to come by. Consequently iron was used in their place and corroded like there was no tomorrow. I replaced all skin fittings, elbows and seacocks. Might well be worth having a gander at your other drains etc. It would be nice to have cockpit drains above the water line but the design of the time was for underwater outlets. Retro fitting is a lot of work and, touch wood, I've not had a problem.

 

[Boathook]

Thanks for all the info. We have done the 3-4 day sailing trips for this year so only knocking around in the harbour now. So going to tape it for the moment and source a replacement and get ready to quickly replace while beached at low tide (including a grinder). Can anyone recomend a good replacement?
Also I remember on my last yacht (a MacWester) the two cockpit drains joined and went out through a single outlet on the port side, this was also above the water line. Has anyone done this on a Centaur?

I like trudesign. Expensive but nicely made. Big problem is that they are bigger is size and if room is tight could be a problem.

With below waterline fittings I prefer the boat being lifted out and remove the stress of will I get it done before the tide comes back in !

 

[Stemar]

I think that is a bit alarmist. By all means keep a plug nearby but it’s near the end of the season anyway. It’s only at low pressure and you could probably stem the leak with some tape such as self-amalgamating tape.

I hope so. If OP's coming out of the water for winter, I'd be inclined to agree. Watching the tide coming in as something refuses to go together isn't good for the blood pressure!

I'd certainly want to check all the other through hulls when out of the water. On my boat, they get a good welt with a rubber mallet. If they survive that, and the seacocks work, I figure they're good for another year or two,

 

[PabloPicasso]

See if you can ascertain what is leaking. Close the seacock, does it still leak? Is it fresh/rain water or salt? If its rain you can get away with it. If its salt water replace asap.


If your through hull fails the boat sinks. Its not a difficult job to replace it.

Dry out on your bilge keels, grind off the old fitting, Replace it with a tru design type and New stainless clips, and a new hose. (Have a tin can and a flask of boiling water to hand to soften the hose end to make fitting easier). You can always close the new seacock if the tides coming back.

Have all your tools, sealants, etc, organised and ready. A helper is good too.

I used tec 7. It'll seal well even in the wet.

Then you can rest easy.

 

[Boathook]

@kevsbox is the nut for the skin fitting glassed in ? If so it makes a lot more work.

 

[PabloPicasso]

@kevsbox is the nut for the skin fitting glassed in ? If so it makes a lot more work.

That is what angle grinders were invented for .

Makes lots of dust so wear a mask and eye protection.

Is there a backing pad? If not a fit one too.

 

[Tranona]

The skin fitting looks like it is the original fit which will be bronze and glassed over. No need to remove it as it will likely be in perfect condition. just unscrew the elbow, which will also probably be bronze and reseal. It might be sensible to use a locking nut underneath the elbow to lock it in the correct orientation. The outlet is underwater so the elbow will have seawater in it which seems to be weeping out. The ball valve looks like a replacement in stainless and the failure of the seal might be caused by disturbing it when the valve was attached. The original would have ben a rubbish gate valve.

 

[Boathook]

That is what angle grinders were invented for .

Makes lots of dust so wear a mask and eye protection.

Is there a backing pad? If not a fit one too.

In my mind this then becomes more than a quick LW job.
Tranona's comments in post 18 are very valid.

 

[PabloPicasso]

@kevsbox is the nut for the skin fitting glassed in ? If so it makes a lot more work.

That is what angle grinders were invented for .

Makes lots of dust so wear a mask and eye

In my mind this then becomes more than a quick LW job.
Tranona's comments in post 18 are very valid.

Agree with all that. Depends what is leaking, and how quickly it needs doing.

With good preperation it can be done between tides. Yes, I'd be happier doing it once lifted out for the winter but sometimes needs must.